69volunteer 84 Report post Posted September 16, 2015 This is actually on another car but thought I would post here for some insight. I have another car that I have taken out of 'service' while I restore the gauge cluster. Like usual, a medium sized job like this turned into a new dash wiring harness, new engine harness, all new plugs and wires, etc. The temp sender and the restored original gauge do not mate (ditched the cheap aftermarket one from when I bought the car) so I am trying to remove the brass temp sender that is sitting in the alum intake. The sender is out but the brass reducer will not come out. I have put heat on it, pb blaster, etc. The motor is in the car and I don't have the best of leverage. Any other thoughts on getting it loose? Probably been in there 20 years or more. 1 CedAbedaPep reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted September 16, 2015 . here's one option. take the intake off drill the fitting out so there is only around .075" thickness of material left. put it in the oven at 500 degrees for 15 minutes. drive a 4 sided easy out into it and turn it out. if it has "welded" itself to the intake it will mess up the threads. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LoneWolf2U 136 Report post Posted September 16, 2015 they have become one...... cut it flat and retap the hole. Its soft enough brass to clean out. Start with smaller size tap and work up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lanky 44 Report post Posted September 16, 2015 Yea either way sounds like the intake's coming off. I agree with everyone. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DocWok 30 Report post Posted September 17, 2015 I have had luck in the past with heating up the area around the fitting then applying a candle to the thread area, the candle melts and the wax flows into the thread, might be worth a try in your situation. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted September 17, 2015 . if you get the intake hot enough it will turn into scrap metal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted September 17, 2015 I have had luck in the past with heating up the area around the fitting then applying a candle to the thread area, the candle melts and the wax flows into the thread, might be worth a try in your situation. Yeah heating the aluminum manifold too much is dangerous like Barnett468 mentioned. But I wanted to say DocWok's method of using a candle (Parafin wax) is the method I was taught as well. It tends to flow into the threads and lubricate instead of flash off from the heat like penetrating oils do. I have removed many rusted bolts and fittings in cast iron blocks, heads, intake and exhaust manifolds using heat and paraffin wax. You do have to be quick at attempting to loosen the fastener after the wax is applied. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69volunteer 84 Report post Posted September 17, 2015 Thanks everyone. I wanted to avoid taking the intake off just yet. The car has been sitting since spring and I want to get it running again before much longer. I'll try the wax method--seems like I have heard that before. Its a cheap edelbrock intake and worst case, I could get a new one. The reducer is pretty flush with the intake so not sure how much thread I have to work with but it is worth a try. I wanted to drive the car for the fall (not sure when fall is going to start in TX this year) and then pull the motor/trans over the winter. Trans needs to be rebuilt, and I would like to freshen the engine bay. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted September 17, 2015 . you do not need any threads to grab . . buy the 4 sided extractor i told you about. instead of heating and using wax you are a million times better off using KROIL oil . . it is by far the best penetrating oil there is and its molecules are around 1,000 times smaller than those in wax so they will obviously penetrate better than wax but you need to put some on maybe four timers a day for at least 2 days Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DocWok 30 Report post Posted September 18, 2015 . you do not need any threads to grab . . buy the 4 sided extractor i told you about. instead of heating and using wax you are a million times better off using KROIL oil . . it is by far the best penetrating oil there is and its molecules are around 1,000 times smaller than those in wax so they will obviously penetrate better than wax but you need to put some on maybe four timers a day for at least 2 days Yep, those 1000 times smaller molecules may do the trick! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RobotMan 264 Report post Posted September 20, 2015 I too have a old temp sensor in an aluminum intake I am concerned about removing. Is there a way to test it using a meter to see if it is good or not? My wiring and instrument panel are not functional yet. Thanks Rick Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted September 20, 2015 You shouldn't have a problem the poster is wrestling with a bushing. BrianDon't know about the pictures ? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
