rodbrady 18 Report post Posted August 29, 2015 At the risk of the mods moving this to the category of dumb questions, I'm going to ask anyway. I'm getting my coupe put back together, and have all the engine components and wiring back on. Under dash harness is in, along with the lower dash. I haven't reinstalled the instrument panel yet, however. Would there be any issue starting the engine with the instrument panel out? I'm at the point where I'd like to do that, before continuing to reassemble the car. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jholmes217 65 Report post Posted August 29, 2015 Is this a new or fresh rebuild engine? If so, you want to be able to monitor temperature, oil pressure, and RPM while you do engine break in for 20-30 minutes. If it's not a fresh engine, shouldn't be a problem. If it's hasn't been run in a long time, I'd still pull the distributor and spin the oil pump for a while with a drill and oil pump primer to get oil to the vital areas before starting. Also, if your gas is old, it has probably went bad. Open your gas cap. If it smells like varnish instead of gas, you will need to get that gas out and replace it, and may need to rebuild your carburetor. The ethanol in gas will eat up your gaskets and seals in the carb, and leave a gummy varnish that will plug things up. You will probably need to rebuild the carb. The ethanol will reek havoc on your rubber fuel lines too. Replace them with 3/8 fuel injection fuel line. It is stiffer, but holds up to the ethanol better since it's made for more modern engines. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Midlife 814 Report post Posted August 29, 2015 You can get by without the dash connected except if you have a tach dash. You'll need to jumper the two pins for the tach on the underdash harness for the engine to run. Don't forget to bypass or jumper the neutral safety switch wiring if you have a manual transmission. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted August 29, 2015 If it is a new motor... Prime it Prime it Prime it first .Like stated you need temp and oil pressure gauges ,you can hook up manual gauges to start it .You don't really need a tach but keep the rpm up for the proper amount of time for the cam break in . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rodbrady 18 Report post Posted August 30, 2015 It's not a new engine, but it hasn't ran in about a year. Given that time period, should I go ahead and prime the oil pump? I've replaced the gas lines and tank, so old gas won't be an issue. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted August 30, 2015 If it sat that long i would prime it ,you can bet all the oil has drained back into the pan Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted August 30, 2015 Personally I won't run an engine without an oil pressure gauge, not even for a minute. Grab a cheep mechanical gauge. I would prime it for sure, and I would definitely put fresh oil and a new filter in as well. Edit Here ya go, on sale $10.50 at Summit. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sun-cp8216 And the primer for $10 also at Summit http://m.summitracing.com/parts/oes-27062 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rodbrady 18 Report post Posted September 15, 2015 Ok, I went ahead and installed the instrument panel and primed the oil pump. Oil pressure gauge even showed pressure as I was running the drill. So, here's the next potentially dumb question. I've replaced the gas tank and fuel lines since the engine last ran a year ago. Is there anything I need to do to get fuel to the carb the first time, besides the fuel pump (mechanical) eventually getting it there? I cranked on it for awhile, but the fuel filter is still dry as a bone. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Flanders 46 Report post Posted September 15, 2015 Mine took many, many cranks to get fuel up to the carb... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wycked69 20 Report post Posted September 15, 2015 You might find it less stressful if you can fill your carb bowls with fuel first. I'm not recommending this but its what I have done. I've often found that after replacing the main fuel line and tank that your asking a lot for that little pump to draw the fuel up through the main line. I often slip the flex line off at the fuel pump and put in a jug. I go to the tank opening with a compressed air nozzle and a rag and apply pressure to the tank for about 2 seconds and it will push the fuel up through the line. its a 2-buddy system so your buddy should be at the other end and have something to pinch the rubber fuel line closed once it starts coming through into the jug so it does not siphon. Slip the line back on the fuel pump and your good to go. Filling your fuel bowls and main fuel line reduces the constant cranking trying to get fuel to the carb. 1 JayEstes reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jholmes217 65 Report post Posted September 16, 2015 Ok, I went ahead and installed the instrument panel and primed the oil pump. Oil pressure gauge even showed pressure as I was running the drill. So, here's the next potentially dumb question. I've replaced the gas tank and fuel lines since the engine last ran a year ago. Is there anything I need to do to get fuel to the carb the first time, besides the fuel pump (mechanical) eventually getting it there? I cranked on it for awhile, but the fuel filter is still dry as a bone. I use a small turkey baster. Pull out the fuel level sight plugs, then, using the turkey baster, fill the front fuel bowl with gas through the carburetor vent tube. When gas starts to trickle out of the fuel level sight hole, stop putting gas in and put the plug back into the fuel level sight plug. Wait a few minutes to see if you have any fuel leaks. When carbs aren't run for a long time, the gaskets can shrink and/or crack and then you have fuel leaks. If no leaks, pump the throttle until gas squirts out of the accelerator pump squirter, then a couple time more. You should be good to start it now. The fuel system has been primed, and it should run, and continue to run as the fuel pump brings the fuel from the gas tank. Just did this procedure over the summer to get the engine I rebuilt started, and it worked like a charm. Fired right up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted September 16, 2015 At the risk of the mods moving this to the category of dumb questions, I'm going to ask anyway. . Dumb question? Those were 2 good questions in my opinion. And anyone who lives in The Woodlands gets and extra slack anyway. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted September 16, 2015 . it is not good to keep cranking on a new engine if the cam is not a roller one. . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
