barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) i have no idea what you are saying i can not help you unless i understand you . . . i do not know what you want or need now. you do not need the mr gasket springs now because your timing is perfect. the springs may make it worse. if your afr reads lean now at steady 60 mph speed, your car runs so good you need bigger jets, not smaller ones. it will be slightly leaner with the vacuum advance. if anything, you might try just 1 size larger main but as i mentioned, do NOT trust your afr . . trust your performance . . if it runs perfect then it is tuneed nearly perfect. . Edited October 27, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) at 55 - 65 cruising speed the air fuel ratio will go so lean that the AFR will have no leds light up, my concern is that leaner mixture could damage my engine I have a 1 number bigger jets, Ill install em today also its smell a lot of gas fumes thanks Im not bitc..ng Im just concern thats all can I take the spacer off to reduce CFMs? Edited October 27, 2014 by juit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) at 55 - 65 cruising speed the air fuel ratio will go so lean that the AFR will have no leds light up, my concern is that leaner mixture could damage my engine I have a 1 number bigger jets, Ill install em today also its smell a lot of gas fumes thanks Im not bitc..ng Im just concern thats all can I take the spacer off to reduce CFMs? Edited October 27, 2014 by juit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) at 55 - 65 cruising speed the air fuel ratio will go so lean that the AFR will have no leds light up, my concern is that leaner mixture could damage my engine I have a 1 number bigger jets, Ill install em today also its smell a lot of gas fumes thanks Im not bitc..ng Im just concern thats all can I take the spacer off to reduce CFMs? I understand, no prob. please answer my other questions . . i have no idea if its better or good enough or what the heck is going on. you were unhappy for weeks that it was too rich. now i make it run so good it "shows" lean and you are unhappy, lol. as i said several times now, DO NOT TRUST YOUR AFR. it has just proven itself to be inaccurate. it is good for a guide only. If it was WAY too lean, it might would surge at steady speed or have a hesitation when you accelerate etc. your engine would also run hotter. unfortunately i don't have time to explain in detail to you how all this works. its very, very complicated the gas smell is not from being to lean. if you smell anything in the car, your exhaust is leaking into it or your fumes from your open element air cleaner are leaking into it. if your car is lean it will smell LESS. by all means, install the bigger jet as i suggested and tell us what it does, but until you get to a safe road for the other tests i will not know if it is 100% perfect. . . . Edited October 27, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) at 55 - 65 cruising speed the air fuel ratio will go so lean that the AFR will have no leds light up, my concern is that leaner mixture could damage my engine I have a 1 number bigger jets, Ill install em today also its smell a lot of gas fumes thanks Im not bitc..ng Im just concern thats all can I take the spacer off to reduce CFMs? I understand, no prob. please answer my other questions . . i have no idea if its better or good enough or what the heck is going on. you were unhappy for weeks that it was too rich. now i make it run so good it "shows" lean and you are unhappy, lol. as i said several times now, DO NOT TRUST YOUR AFR. it has just proven itself to be inaccurate. it is good for a guide only. If it was WAY too lean, it might would surge at steady speed or have a hesitation when you accelerate etc. your engine would also run hotter. unfortunately i don't have time to explain in detail to you how all this works. its very, very complicated the gas smell is not from being to lean. if you smell anything in the car, your exhaust is leaking into it or your fumes from your open element air cleaner are leaking into it. if your car is lean it will smell LESS. by all means, install the bigger jet as i suggested and tell us what it does, but until you get to a safe road for the other tests i will not know if it is 100% perfect. . . . Edited October 27, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Max Power 74 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 OK, this thread is starting to make my brain hurt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Max Power 74 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 OK, this thread is starting to make my brain hurt. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) OK, this thread is starting to make my brain hurt.lol, what are ya readin it fer then? its makin my brain hurt too. brief partial summary. his car ran bad because he had an air leak and got that fixed. it ran hotter after his mechanic "fixed it". his car ran rich before and after according to the afr gauge. i had him check timing because its the first place to start. his timing was way low . . i had him remove the stiffer advance spring and rotate the mechanical advance to the bigger slot . . his timing is now right on. the additional timing caused his engine to run leaner as i told him it would. it should also run cooler at idle than it was but he did not say. he is now going to install 1 size bigger jet, then i will ask him to throw his afr meter away. . Edited October 27, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) OK, this thread is starting to make my brain hurt.lol, what are ya readin it fer then? its makin my brain hurt too. brief partial summary. his car ran bad because he had an air leak and got that fixed. it ran hotter after his mechanic "fixed it". his car ran rich before and after according to the afr gauge. i had him check timing because its the first place to start. his timing was way low . . i had him remove the stiffer advance spring and rotate the mechanical advance to the bigger slot . . his timing is now right on. the additional timing caused his engine to run leaner as i told him it would. it should also run cooler at idle than it was but he did not say. he is now going to install 1 size bigger jet, then i will ask him to throw his afr meter away. . Edited October 27, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) you were unhappy for weeks that it was too rich. now i make it run so good it "shows" lean and you are unhappy, no not at all i never dealt with lean afr before lol as i said several times now, DO NOT TRUST YOUR AFR. it has just proven itself to be inaccurate. it is good for a guide only. thanks Ill disconect it :) If it was WAY too lean, it might would surge at steady speed or have a hesitation when you accelerate etc. your engine would also run hotter. unfortunately i don't have time to explain in detail to you how all this works. its very, very complicated cool the gas smell is not from being to lean. if you smell anything in the car, your exhaust is leaking into it or your fumes from your open element air cleaner are leaking into it. if your car is lean it will smell LESS. by all means, install the bigger jet as i suggested and tell us what it does, but until you get to a safe road for the other tests i will not know if it is 100% perfect. I have a spare 1 number bigger . . Edited October 27, 2014 by juit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) you were unhappy for weeks that it was too rich. now i make it run so good it "shows" lean and you are unhappy, no not at all i never dealt with lean afr before lol as i said several times now, DO NOT TRUST YOUR AFR. it has just proven itself to be inaccurate. it is good for a guide only. thanks Ill disconect it :) If it was WAY too lean, it might would surge at steady speed or have a hesitation when you accelerate etc. your engine would also run hotter. unfortunately i don't have time to explain in detail to you how all this works. its very, very complicated cool the gas smell is not from being to lean. if you smell anything in the car, your exhaust is leaking into it or your fumes from your open element air cleaner are leaking into it. if your car is lean it will smell LESS. by all means, install the bigger jet as i suggested and tell us what it does, but until you get to a safe road for the other tests i will not know if it is 100% perfect. I have a spare 1 number bigger . . Edited October 27, 2014 by juit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) can I take the spacer off to reduce CFMs? what? i just made your car hauls a_s, why do you want to slow it down now? if you are talking about removing the carb spacer, why do you want to remove it? you cannot remove the spacer because you modified it and had to install it to eliminate your carb base leak. if your car is too fast, just put a screw and nut in the secondary linkage slot on the rear driver side of the carb . . this will reduce the amount they open . . you can also buy a secondary spring kit and use the heavy spring ir just out a 2 barrel back on it with an adapater. i must say that very few people have asked me how to slow their car down. . Edited October 27, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) can I take the spacer off to reduce CFMs? what? i just made your car hauls a_s, why do you want to slow it down now? if you are talking about removing the carb spacer, why do you want to remove it? you cannot remove the spacer because you modified it and had to install it to eliminate your carb base leak. if your car is too fast, just put a screw and nut in the secondary linkage slot on the rear driver side of the carb . . this will reduce the amount they open . . you can also buy a secondary spring kit and use the heavy spring ir just out a 2 barrel back on it with an adapater. i must say that very few people have asked me how to slow their car down. . Edited October 27, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 ohh no I thought it could help out the lean problem in case the jet wont help me out and need to buy some just as a temp fix I dont know were I read that spacers lean out mixtures Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 ohh no I thought it could help out the lean problem in case the jet wont help me out and need to buy some just as a temp fix I dont know were I read that spacers lean out mixtures Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) ohh no I thought it could help out the lean problem in case the jet wont help me out and need to buy some just as a temp fix I dont know were I read that spacers lean out mixtures ok got ya . . just stuff the jet in the front and tell us what it does. we'll worry about your spacer later if you want a hair more bottom end better throttle response down low. this spacer should work. Edited October 27, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) ohh no I thought it could help out the lean problem in case the jet wont help me out and need to buy some just as a temp fix I dont know were I read that spacers lean out mixtures ok got ya . . just stuff the jet in the front and tell us what it does. we'll worry about your spacer later if you want a hair more bottom end better throttle response down low. this spacer should work. Edited October 27, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) whats the thickness of that spacer? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Phenolic-Carburator-Spacer-4-Hole-Chevy-Ford-Chrysler-Holley-Edelbrock-/271428828496?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f326b3d50&vxp=mtr are this any good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/151002965587 Edited October 27, 2014 by juit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) whats the thickness of that spacer? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Phenolic-Carburator-Spacer-4-Hole-Chevy-Ford-Chrysler-Holley-Edelbrock-/271428828496?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f326b3d50&vxp=mtr are this any good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/151002965587 Edited October 27, 2014 by juit Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 whats the thickness of that spacer? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Phenolic-Carburator-Spacer-4-Hole-Chevy-Ford-Chrysler-Holley-Edelbrock-/271428828496?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f326b3d50&vxp=mtr are this any good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/151002965587 get off the internet and put your jets in, lol. that spacer is 5/16" thick. that distributor is a shiny 47.00 pos. your distributor is 10 times better than that is now...finally...because it is set up nearly perfect for your engine and your parts are better. heres the deal. if you buy another distributor, you must do this exact same process all over again because they are set up with very little advance. if you want more "performance" from your ignition i need to know what you have for points, coil and if you have an msd box. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 whats the thickness of that spacer? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Phenolic-Carburator-Spacer-4-Hole-Chevy-Ford-Chrysler-Holley-Edelbrock-/271428828496?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f326b3d50&vxp=mtr are this any good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/151002965587 get off the internet and put your jets in, lol. that spacer is 5/16" thick. that distributor is a shiny 47.00 pos. your distributor is 10 times better than that is now...finally...because it is set up nearly perfect for your engine and your parts are better. heres the deal. if you buy another distributor, you must do this exact same process all over again because they are set up with very little advance. if you want more "performance" from your ignition i need to know what you have for points, coil and if you have an msd box. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 Im not buying it for me, a friend ask me one for his truck I told him to keep the stock Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
juit 34 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 Im not buying it for me, a friend ask me one for his truck I told him to keep the stock Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) he should buy an msd or mallory if he wants something shiny. he can also fix his advance just like you did and put a pertronix 1 unit in it if he wants. how does your afr read with the bigger jets? . Edited October 27, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted October 27, 2014 (edited) he should buy an msd or mallory if he wants something shiny. he can also fix his advance just like you did and put a pertronix 1 unit in it if he wants. how does your afr read with the bigger jets? . Edited October 27, 2014 by barnett468 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites