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metalgraver

Texas 69 Mach 1

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Ok, Iam one of those fools who paid to much for a car. I bought a 1969 Mach 1 last year thinking that it would not be to hard to finish, only to find out that I will need to strip it down and replace most of the sheet metal, rebuild the motor, replace the suspension and put disk brakes on it, new interior, new wire harness, new dash, new windshield ect. Then put a new paint job on it to finish it. I figure I will spend around $30,000.00 above what I paid for the car to do it right. So, since I will be spending the next several years and most of my money to do it, I thought I would start a build thread to show the progress from start to finish. I virtually know nothing about body work and very little about auto mechanic's. I did rebuild a 396 in my SS when I was in high School, pulled out a few transmission's and replaced the throw out bearings a few times, changed the oil and spark plugs a few times but that's about all the auto mechanic skills I have. So this will be a huge learning experience for me. I can weld, but have never welded sheet metal. As soon as I can figure out how to post a picture on here I will start posting them before I get to far along. I did find the right and left front pillars to replace the rusted ones on the car thanks to some one here giving me Scottys information. I have had the cowl and floors replaced by a shop in Houston, but after paying a chunk of money to do so, I will need to do all the rest of the body work my self. Stay tuned for updates.:thumbup1:

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Here are two pictures of the car when I bought it. Now this car looks pretty good in these pictures, but what you cant see is the fiberglass and bondo that these guys put in this car to make it look good. Also this car is all original so all of the suspension, motor, brakes and transmission are original. Like I said, the cowl and floors needed replacing. The quarter panels are rusted around the back windshield and lower panels, the front fenders where rusted and fiber glassed, the trunk floor is rotted out, the front of the hood was fiber glassed, the two front pillars on the right and left side of the glass up to the roof have rusted holes in them, the wiring was trashed and the so called rebuilt motor was painted and had a new manifold put on it, but that's it. It had no carburetor, no fuel pump, no drive shaft, no electronics and no starter. It will need new breaks, new suspension, new sheet metal all around, left shock tower has a crack caused from the holes some one cut in it to grease the upper arm, the right shock tower has two holes in it for same reason, the battery tray is totally rusted out. Basically the car is a total wreck. This is a lot more than what I originally wanted to get into but when Iam done I will know everything there is to know about these cars and I will have one bad asz car. I have already picked up a running 351W motor, T5 transmission and drive shaft out of a 1969 sports top. I also got an original shaker hood and shaker with the deal. I also have the right and left pillar from a parts car, so Iam well on my way. All I need to do is start tearing her down, blast what is left, order the rest of the sheet metal and start putting her back together. I will also be building my own rotisserie to put her on for the blasting and reassembly.:thumbup1:

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Iam getting everything up to date on what has been done so far. Here are some pictures of the cowling and floor replacement. This work was done by Gear Jammin Classics in Houston. I now have the car at home, up on jacks and have sarted on the disassembly of the front starting with the battery apron and front suspension. I think the best way to do this is to go ahead and completely take off all the sheet metal and pull out all suspension, put her on a rottisery and have her blasted and primerd before I start to put her back together. If Iam wrong please speack up, because like I have said, I have never done this before.

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Make sure you take measurements before removing the apron. If my memory serves me (fat chance) the right and left firewall to radiator support distances are different. Good luck and have some fun. Damn I love Texas hill country!

 

Bob

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If depends where the measurement is taken. If taken at the frame rail yes it is different. AT but if taken at the cowl it will be the same side to side. You can not take too many measurements!!! Adjustments will need to be made as all parts are a bit differnet, even the OEM stuff.

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Iam getting everything up to date on what has been done so far. Here are some pictures of the cowling and floor replacement. This work was done by Gear Jammin Classics in Houston. I now have the car at home, up on jacks and have sarted on the disassembly of the front starting with the battery apron and front suspension. I think the best way to do this is to go ahead and completely take off all the sheet metal and pull out all suspension, put her on a rottisery and have her blasted and primerd before I start to put her back together. If Iam wrong please speack up, because like I have said, I have never done this before.

 

Metalgraver, welcome aboard, it's amazing how cars can look so good and be hiding lots of problems underneath. It's more common than not, but it's cool that you're gonna fix her right. I did want to ask about the floor pan repair, in the picture it looks to be tacked in. Did they weld it to the frame rail? I was jus wondering, it didn't look to be in the picture. Keep us posted

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Hello Flash, I would appreciate having someone local who is also rebuilding a like car. Iam sure that we can bounce information off of each other and maybe a helping hand once in a while. Iam putting together my garage/shop right now with a compressor and welder. Once I get these up and running I will start pulling off the rest of the sheet metal. We should get together, I would like to see your car.

 

Doug

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