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1BAD351

TKO 600 Swap

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So after much research I have decided to shy away from swapping a T-56 into my car and go with a TKO. I picked up a TKO 600 and blow proof bellhousing with clutch fork, but so far that is all I have for the swap. I currently have a 351w with a c6 auto trans. Is there a parts list somewhere as to what else I will need? Also does anyone have any tips for me as far as how to do the swap or what to and not to buy? This is my first trans conversion so talk to me like I'm an idiot.

 

TIA

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some items you may or may not need that come to mind (don't know all of the official names):

 

1. T/O bearing/flywheel/clutch/pressure plate/bushing

2. fork fulcrum

3. safety/block plate

4. transmission crossmember

5. transmission rubber isolator

6. engine pivot ball

7. frame pivot bracket

8. z-bar

9. lower z-bar linkage

10. upper linkage rod

11. brake/clutch pedal assembly

12. slip yoke/driveshaft

13. shifter/shifter boot

14. shifter lever/knob

14. manual transmission electrical harness

15

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Shot the guys at Modern Driveline an email. I'll see what they have to say. This swap is looking like it's going to cost quite a bit more than I thought it was going to haha.

 

I think you will find them to be very helpful. I dealt personally with Bruce and he is on top of his game.

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Another option is to buy an upgraded TKO from Liberties Gear. Keisler's TKO trans mount is very good. I would also use a hydraulic clutch setup. I don't know if you can parts separately from Keisler w/o purchasing the full blown kit. I would give them a call.

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I didn't plan on a hydrolic setup. I see no need for one, just complicates thing and costs more. I also like the feel of a manual clutch better. I DD a 400 HP 2000 GT with the same clutch I plan on using in my 69 and it's not bad at all. Does anyone recommend going hydrolic? If so why?

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Not trying to push Keisler but I do like some things about their setup. I have the Keisler concentric cylinder on the front of my TKO. It works great. Very smooth operation. Some of the benefits as stated from Keisler are.

Smooth pedal effort due to in-line motion of bearing along axis of travel, and low mechanical loss caused by friction of moving parts. You can actuate our 650HP clutch plate with one hand!

Dramatic simplification and reduction in moving wear items

Less maintenance and lower operating cost

Bolt-on, easy installation compared to mechanical system, making automatic conversions far easier.

Dramatically more clearance for headers (I agree with this benefit)

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Good luck with the swap. FWIW, with your engine and new tranny, I would seriously consider swapping out the 8" for a 9" with traction lock or a locker.

 

Bob

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Good luck with the swap. FWIW, with your engine and new tranny, I would seriously consider swapping out the 8" for a 9" with traction lock or a locker.

 

Bob

 

Already have a 3.91 posi 9" waiting to go in ;)

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Not trying to push Keisler but I do like some things about their setup. I have the Keisler concentric cylinder on the front of my TKO. It works great. Very smooth operation. Some of the benefits as stated from Keisler are.

Smooth pedal effort due to in-line motion of bearing along axis of travel, and low mechanical loss caused by friction of moving parts. You can actuate our 650HP clutch plate with one hand!

Dramatic simplification and reduction in moving wear items

Less maintenance and lower operating cost

Bolt-on, easy installation compared to mechanical system, making automatic conversions far easier.

Dramatically more clearance for headers (I agree with this benefit)

 

Is it really easier to install the hydrolic setup than a manual setup? Is it also cheaper to do?

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Is it really easier to install the hydrolic setup than a manual setup? Is it also cheaper to do?

 

I can speak for the concentric internal hydraulic cylinder. Installation was easy. Adjustments included, a)changing the internal spacer b) adjusted the clutch pedal rod, and bleeding the line. There are options for both Z bar (Ford, Modern driveline)and hydraulic (internal, external cylinder). I don't think any option is cheap, it can get more expensive if you have to buy new headers to fit.

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MDL has a clutch kit pedal and all, im going with a teflon coated cable drove one, smother than manuel and takes very little space and your scatter shield has a hole allready set up for it

 

Do you have a link to the kit you bought? I actually have a clutch peddle in my fastback that I'm going to rob, because that car is probably going to stay an auto.

 

I can speak for the concentric internal hydraulic cylinder. Installation was easy. Adjustments included, a)changing the internal spacer b) adjusted the clutch pedal rod, and bleeding the line. There are options for both Z bar (Ford, Modern driveline)and hydraulic (internal, external cylinder). I don't think any option is cheap, it can get more expensive if you have to buy new headers to fit.

 

 

Do you have any pics of your install by chance? How exactly does it go in? I'm very new to all of this and don't want to screw myself over.

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Fixin' to go there myself, borrowed this set-up from one of my friends. My floor is out of my car (going to put in a one piece floor pan) and it is a perfect time to do what ever mods to the tunnel area, and to build a cross member. Talked to Bruce yesterday at Modern Driveline (nice guy) about a new system, ought to be fun... Good luck with your C-6 to TKO swap.

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Fixin' to go there myself, borrowed this set-up from one of my friends. My floor is out of my car (going to put in a one piece floor pan) and it is a perfect time to do what ever mods to the tunnel area, and to build a cross member. Talked to Bruce yesterday at Modern Driveline (nice guy) about a new system, ought to be fun... Good luck with your C-6 to TKO swap.

 

Are those newer Mustang brakes on the floor there?

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SN-95 (actually 1995) assy. They were for a Fox body project I had, why?

 

Ah, was wondering if you were adapting them to a 69. I've got a set off my 2000 and was hoping they would fit my 69 easily haha.

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