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RPM

The Bitch is Back!

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Back probably 15 or so years ago I installed some 1980 El Dorado rear disc brakes. I'd seen them in a wrecking yard and they seemed like they'd be a pretty easy swap. The integral parking brake, readily available replacement parts and cheap price at pick a part made it an easy choice. My brother drew up the caliper bracket and axle flange bolt pattern to drill new mounting holes.

 

Fast forward to a couple of years ago and all I read on line was what a pain these calipers were to keep adjusted as the parking brake needs to be set for continued adjustment, and how difficult they are to rebuild. About a year ago I stole a set of Cobra rear discs for $80. Not looking forward to fitting up the parking brake cables to the Eldo calipers, I decided to jump in and mount the Cobra brakes. As an added bonus the Cobra rotors have a 1" larger diameter at 11-1/2" than the Eldo.

 

The street rodder I bought the brakes from had them on a 34 Ford roadster with 15" wheels, and they had some unidentifiable 10-1/2" rotors with the kit. I picked up some 11-1/2" Cobra rotors and had to make a caliper bracket to fit the larger rotors. So for less than $200 I got Cobra rear discs to match the front. And no more GM parts on my Mustang damn it!

 

Before

 

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After

 

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I used Lincoln town car disks ,i think 1985 on my 35 ford pick up .it was a pretty simple adaption ,the caliper mount bolts on the Lincoln and it is a 3 inch center and that slipped over the axle housing on the 9 inch and i welded it to the tube after setting it to the proper spacing ,took about 1 hour to set it all up and it has an emergency brake built in .Stops that old 35 very well 

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Ya, goodlier. That's exactly the word I was thinking Mike once they were installed.

 

I like the big Ford car brakes too Jim. I think the next Mustang I do will get those big 12"+ T-Bird discs up front that are what, 1-1/4" thick?

 

 

 

post-5441-0-14363100-1490054885.jpg

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How does the parking brake work on the Cobra caliper?

Mustang Steve apparently sells a kit for the 69/70. The cable comes thru the lower front and connects to a lead ball end in the stock bracket on the caliper. I tried but failed to find a pic.

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Ah yes, I understand. Probably the easiest way to adapt them, with a lead fitting on the end of a cable. We used to stock all those different shaped leads plus the rolls of inner and outer cable, in one of the motorcycle stores I worked in. Easy way to make your own cables.

 

That's a bargain of an upgrade that you've done there.

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Great work!

How was the drive? I bet it's been a while since it's been that far?

I did over 400 miles in my 66 on Friday/Saturday. Took it to Sydney which was the furthest it has been. It was a great trip despite not having A/C or any tunes.

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19 minutes ago, Ash said:

Great work!

How was the drive? I bet it's been a while since it's been that far?

I did over 400 miles in my 66 on Friday/Saturday. Took it to Sydney which was the furthest it has been. It was a great trip despite not having A/C or any tunes.

No AC and tunes ? That's bad, some how i can  picture you with your head out the window trying to keep cool ,and  singing Keith Urban at the top of your lungs 

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The drive went well. I don't think I've driven it 120 miles before today since I bought it. I added a remote oil filter in order to have a port for an oil temp gauge. I can't seem to stop a very small leak in the thread fitting locations. Since I'm going to replace the oil pan with a one piece gasket, I'll weld a fitting bung on the plan then and remove the remote filter. The suspension was a bit rougher than I expected. Front springs are 350# and the rears are 150# so I figured it'd be softer. I knew with the rod end control arms it would be firmer, but not this firm. I have the shocks set in the middle, so I'll lower the settings before a final critique. I also have an oscillating vibration that starts at about 55 mph that I'll need to address. 

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The motor has been running crappy lately and I was mighty anxious driving yesterday on a 120 mile trip. So I went to check the timing this morning. 

Way back twenty-two months when we first broke in the motor, the distributor was left loose to get it fired and running. Yep. Never tightened the hold down bolt. DOH! It was running pretty much straight up with no advance on the timing, and moving who knows how much while running. Set initial timing at 16°, total of 38 all in at 3k rpm. Adjusted the carb, idle jets and idle. It sounds and responds much better. Ya think? 

So I took it for a spin around the park, what a difference, night and day. Idles better, immediate smooth response off idle, accelerates quickly and leaves as much rubber on the road as I want! Life is good again.

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On 4/8/2017 at 8:58 PM, RPM said:

Drove the 69 sixty miles north to Ridge Runner's place to have him install my rear glass. He made it look easy peasy, and I'm sure I'd still be working on it if I did it. And it would leak. Thanks again Jim.

rear glass.jpg

I wished you guys would have done a tutorial on that rear window install. From what I understand the rear really isn't that bad, the front a different story. We really could use a tutorial on the front windshield, removal and install. Why? Because I need to do that....lol!  

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Hey John, if I have to pay for work done to my car, no free advice for you! Kidding, just kidding. Ya know, it never crossed my old mind to take pics for other's benefit. I don't know if I have the pics needed for a tutorial but I'll check. In my opinion the front glass is easier, but what do I know?

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It would have gone a lot better if i had picked up enough bedding compound  ,one tube shy .will be easy to finish up though .

it is hard to find the bedding compound here ,the glass shop told me they don't do many windows that go in with the rubber gasket anymore so they do not stock it ,they just happened to have a couple of tubes was all 

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12 hours ago, Machspeed said:

I wished you guys would have done a tutorial on that rear window install. From what I understand the rear really isn't that bad, the front a different story. We really could use a tutorial on the front windshield, removal and install. Why? Because I need to do that....lol!  

The front is not to hard to remove ...if you are not trying to save it that is .there is a cutting tool ,that i broke on the last front window i did ,that has a blade that slips between the glass and the window channel and cuts the sealer bonding the two together .Get a window that is sealed with the new glue and it is a pain in the butt if they pressed the glass to close to the channel because you cant get the blade between the two ,that is how i broke my tool .You should be able to buy the tool at any glass shop .

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5 hours ago, RPM said:

Hey John, if I have to pay for work done to my car, no free advice for you! Kidding, just kidding. Ya know, it never crossed my old mind to take pics for other's benefit. I don't know if I have the pics needed for a tutorial but I'll check. In my opinion the front glass is easier, but what do I know?

I hear ya, Bob.....lol! Freaking everybody wants something for free!

 

15 minutes ago, Ridge Runner said:

The front is not to hard to remove ...if you are not trying to save it that is .there is a cutting tool ,that i broke on the last front window i did ,that has a blade that slips between the glass and the window channel and cuts the sealer bonding the two together .Get a window that is sealed with the new glue and it is a pain in the butt if they pressed the glass to close to the channel because you cant get the blade between the two ,that is how i broke my tool .You should be able to buy the tool at any glass shop .

Ridge, gotta pull both my front and rear glass, both of which are original.....don't want to damage it either. Little nervous about that. Tips buddy?

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I stopped by my go to paint supply store today and they don't carry it any longer. Ordered some from Summit and it'll be here tomorrow. Shipped is the same price as you paid Jim. Well, it's 50¢ more a tube, close enough.

Jim as I was driving home Saturday I was thinking to myself I sure hope I paid you enough. If not you can make it up on the next thing I need help on. Thanks again buddy.

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2 minutes ago, RPM said:

I stopped by my go to paint supply store today and they don't carry it any longer. Ordered some from Summit and it'll be here tomorrow. Shipped is the same price as you paid Jim. Well, it's 50¢ more a tube, close enough.

Jim as I was driving home Saturday I was thinking to myself I sure hope I paid you enough. If not you can make it up on the next thing I need help on. Thanks again buddy.

To much 

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1 hour ago, Machspeed said:

I hear ya, Bob.....lol! Freaking everybody wants something for free!

 

Ridge, gotta pull both my front and rear glass, both of which are original.....don't want to damage it either. Little nervous about that. Tips buddy?

Back window is no problem ,a utility knife and cut the top flap of rubber off and lift the glass out ,it may be a bit stuck to the rubber and two people can lift it easier ..The front i would buy the glass tool ,or you can use a wire ,but i think a wire is harder .

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