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StephenC

Help me choose a Transmission

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I just used the stock FMX trans mount, which looks just like the one in that picture. Can't wait to see it installed. Take pictures when you get it in!

i will definitely take some pics ill even try to make a how to on this swap when its all said and done.

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OK so for the past 2 days I've been searching high and low for a set of headers that will clear a C6 transmission as those from what I have read are the only kind that will fit around the 4R. Anyone have a set of headers or a model number they can share that will work with the 4R?

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I can tell you what doesn't fit, and thats MAC headers. See here: http://www.stangfix.com/testforum/index.php/topic,6333.0.html

 

I'm running Hooker Comps on my 351w and FMX. I believe the AOD was based on the FMX design so they may be similar in size, assuming the 4r70w is similar to the AOD in size. One of the collector flanges was touching the trans pan on my FMX, but no real big clearance issues besides that. This is with the taller 351w, so this flange interference wouldn't be there with the shorter 302.

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Just got the X member, shift rod, range sensor relocation bracket, tans mount, and speedo gear in today still waiting on the slip yoke and u joint adapter from Shaftmasters then all I'll need is the computer and TPS and I'll be ready to put this thing in. Heres a pic of the x member if anyone wants to buy one let me know I can hook you up with the guy who I bought mine from. IMG_0054-2.jpg

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Nice work! I like the lever flip idea. I thought about trying it. If my rocker ends up giving my trouble, I will have to do the same thing. I don't have a whole lot of progress to note, but I did get the driveshaft shortened and installed, and got the cooler lines, and an additional cooler installed. The good news for the cooler lines, is that one of them didn't need any modification to fit. The other was long, so with a little cutting, and bending, it fit to the 4r without needing to use rubber line. I have my exhaust kit from summit, so on to exhaust fabrication!

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Nice work! I like the lever flip idea. I thought about trying it. If my rocker ends up giving my trouble, I will have to do the same thing. I don't have a whole lot of progress to note, but I did get the driveshaft shortened and installed, and got the cooler lines, and an additional cooler installed. The good news for the cooler lines, is that one of them didn't need any modification to fit. The other was long, so with a little cutting, and bending, it fit to the 4r without needing to use rubber line. I have my exhaust kit from summit, so on to exhaust fabrication!

Thank Big! I like the flip lever because I am going to be putting in a factory console with the factory shifter so this way the factory shifter will just bolt right onto the shifter rod. Sounds like you have more progress then I do. I am trying to get all the parts I need before attempting to install this then just take a long weekend from work and install it in a couple day. As for your exhaust what headers are you using? I want to use some long tube headers but nowhere sells them to fit around this bellhousing (C6 bellhousing) and are you going to use a H pipe?

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IMG_0059-1.jpg?t=1272228446

Well hardly any progress this weekend some of which has to with that I dislocated my shoulder again so not much I could do on the trans. The only thing I did was mount the TPS Lokar bracket and make a throttle return spring bracket. Like I said not much progress but every little bit is one step closer. Also for the TPS what are you guys using I'm thinking of buying the TPS Acculink from COMPUSHIFT??action=view&current=IMG_0059-1.jpg

Edited by StephenC

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I used some cheap long tube headers from hedman. Ive got a 351w and had an fmx. The long tubes cleared the AOD. Cant remember the part number but they were the basic ones for like $119.

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I didnt install the trans yet to be 100% sure. But I did some measurements and from what I got the driveshaft will have to shortened 1 3/8" and Im about 99% sure about that

Edited by StephenC

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By the way if anyone is looking for a slip yoke without one of those huge balancers that get in the way of the exhaust or you need a conversion u joint check out ShaftMasters.com and give Mike a call he will help you out with them. I paid $102.98 for the slip yoke and u joint with shipping.

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For the u-joint, it is part 353 for the u-joint. At my local checker, it was about $13. Summitracing also sells it http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PCN-353/ I agree with the 1-3/8" shortening. I probably shortened mine about 1/4" more than that, and its about 1/4" too short. Off the top of my head, I think the center to center of the u-joint is 58-1/8" (this is off the top of my head!) I pulled my yoke from a lincoln mark VII. It does not have the balancer on it, and fits my 4R nicely. The lincoln may not have the balancer since it is an IRS car. If you are scouring the boneyards, I read that you can also pull the yoke of any AOD car if you also pull the matching tailshaft. The splines are the same, its the OD of the yoke that is different. I did shorten my own driveshaft. I the first one I did worked very well. If anyone is interested, I can write up the steps I used.

 

Just to give you an exhaust update, I started fabbing mine up and have the front half tack welded together. There are some tight bends. I do have a convertible, so routing is extra difficult.

 

StevenC, I am running stock exhaust manifolds and a 2-1/4" summitracing exhaust kit, I am using the stock single exhast down pipes. I might add the crossover later if I feel like I have room. The exhaust kit is nowhere near a bolt on, and I didn't really expect it to be either. I can't help you with the header choice. If I were in your shoes, I would consider getting a pair of uncoated headers, and if the flange interferes, you can cut and reposition the outlet to clear. You can always get them recoated afterwards. Headman hedders have a ball socket flange, and they allow a little flexibility as far as the collector goes. You can aim your exhast away from the tranny a little bit.

 

For the TPS, I am using a sensor from a turbo pontiac. I used a coat hanger for the pushrod, and made sure that the travel of the carburator is just a hair less than the travel of the sensor. The coathanger is plenty strong for the light spring that is on the TPS. The linkage works ok, but I am not sure I like the lever arm on the sensor so I may look for a different sensor.

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For the u-joint, it is part 353 for the u-joint. At my local checker, it was about $13. Summitracing also sells it http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PCN-353/ I agree with the 1-3/8" shortening. I probably shortened mine about 1/4" more than that, and its about 1/4" too short. Off the top of my head, I think the center to center of the u-joint is 58-1/8" (this is off the top of my head!) I pulled my yoke from a lincoln mark VII. It does not have the balancer on it, and fits my 4R nicely. The lincoln may not have the balancer since it is an IRS car. If you are scouring the boneyards, I read that you can also pull the yoke of any AOD car if you also pull the matching tailshaft. The splines are the same, its the OD of the yoke that is different. I did shorten my own driveshaft. I the first one I did worked very well. If anyone is interested, I can write up the steps I used.

 

Just to give you an exhaust update, I started fabbing mine up and have the front half tack welded together. There are some tight bends. I do have a convertible, so routing is extra difficult.

 

StevenC, I am running stock exhaust manifolds and a 2-1/4" summitracing exhaust kit, I am using the stock single exhast down pipes. I might add the crossover later if I feel like I have room. The exhaust kit is nowhere near a bolt on, and I didn't really expect it to be either. I can't help you with the header choice. If I were in your shoes, I would consider getting a pair of uncoated headers, and if the flange interferes, you can cut and reposition the outlet to clear. You can always get them recoated afterwards. Headman hedders have a ball socket flange, and they allow a little flexibility as far as the collector goes. You can aim your exhast away from the tranny a little bit.

 

For the TPS, I am using a sensor from a turbo pontiac. I used a coat hanger for the pushrod, and made sure that the travel of the carburator is just a hair less than the travel of the sensor. The coathanger is plenty strong for the light spring that is on the TPS. The linkage works ok, but I am not sure I like the lever arm on the sensor so I may look for a different sensor.

Sounds like your almost done with the swap bud. I'm going to be getting the Acculink TPS from HGM its $122.08 for everything you need (TPS, wire harness, linkage, bracket, all the nuts and bolts) For the exhaust I am going to get a cheap set of Summit header for about $119.99 and if I need to fab em up its not gonna kill me to chop them up. Will be getting some parts in the next couple days here so I should have an update of the swap. Its just gonna be awhile to get the Baummans controller.

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Well looks like there will be a little set back. I ordered the Acculink TPS from HGM and when i received it today they sent me a Speed Signal Interface instead so now i have to wait for the new Acculink to come before I can even begin the install. and to top it off I still haven't been able to find a set of headers. I will look today and hopefully I can guy some.

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OK so I finnaly found the headers that will fit around the 4R they are Hooker Comps from summit they are around $250.00 I did some measurements and they will clear by 2 1/4" just got them in today and I got my Acculink TPS from HGM in today as well will post some pics later. I'm still however waiting for my deep aluminum pan which will come in tomorrow. Next week I will be buying the Baumann computer and wire harness and I will be installing the trans that same week. So keep an eye out for updates and I will probably post it in the project progress forum on the website for anyone that's following this swap or doing it themselves.

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