bigperm2

Thanks Phil, I took your advice and ordered the 68 color. They still have it. It's 5792R Dark red in the catalog, but the NPD tech said it the can is 5792 Dark "metallic" red, just like in the picture. I also ordered the fancy SEM soap, SEM prep and conditioner (38344) and the adhesion promoter (39863) Let me know if anybody is seeing that I am doing something wrong!

Also, which adhesion promoter is the right one? is it the 39863 or 77721. I assume the 38363 sand free is not the right stuff for the dash, but would be correct for the hard plastic trim pieces. How many cans of paint are needed for the dash pad? Thanks for any input!

I know I am resurrecting this post from the dead, but I am getting ready to dye my dash dark red and I think it belongs with this post. I will be getting the SEM brand paint because I with a different brand on a used dash, and it didn't look or feel right. My question is... NPD has a dark red and a dark red metallic. Which one is the correct one that will match the stock interior? Seems like the red upholstery and door panels are kinda metallicish, but I just want to be sure. Phil, your dash looks great! what paint did you use? Thanks!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Mustang-Base-Convertible-2-Door-1969-ford-mustang-convertible-rare-with-351-windsor-/171458773289?forcerrptr=true&hash=item27ebbd4129&item=171458773289&pt=US_Cars_Trucks I like this car! The marti report shows a custom paint color. I am a little curious if anyone has heard of special paint colors in Michigan, and if anyone knows what the color would have been? California had the "rainbow of colors" promotion and Denver had special paint colors in 68. I can't buy it, but am curious what y'all think!

What intake manifold is on it? I bought a GT40 style lower intake, with an explorer upper in hopes of adding EFI to my 351W. I found that the intake will not fit under the stock hood. The intake would also interfere with the stock braces.

I actually did use the stripping disc. I did take all removeable parts to a sandblaster, replaced the quarters, and I have a convertible, so that didn't leave much to strip. My grinder is more like 9 amps, and it did OK, and I thought it was quite a bit faster than the DA sander with 40 grit paper. The problem with the stripping disc, is it will put a bunch of heat in the sheet metal so care must be used. I used 1.5 of those things before they wore out, and it did make a mess.

IMO, its not worth it unless you really want the 351W long block. As others have posted, the 351W intake will not fit. The intake isn't a great of an intake anyway, and the truck cam and compression is meant for a truck. and your 69 302 should be faster anyway. The automatic from the truck is an E4OD, again great HD trans for a truck, but its a big transmission and not great for a car. You would be better off with a 5.0 roller engine from a mustang or explorer. The explorer versions are the better motor, but there are things to consider if you go that route (google GT40P) They are dime a dozen in the pull your own part JYs in colorado for $200. The C4/aod/aode/4r70w would all fit, and cams, intakes, etc are all affordable. Wiring up a factory ecu is easy. Look for the mass air a9l or a9p 5.0 mustang computers. you can use the manual or auto ECU's for your C4, but the auto versions can be less expensive.

+2. Straight CO2 will also work, just not as well.

I can tell you that I did try to use a die to put a standard thread on the pot metal ornaments. I can tell you that it does not work. The pot metal is not a consistant diameter, and it is not strong enough to take the torque required for the die to cut threads. In my limited experiance, the factory sheet metal nuts are the best. I did pick up a selection of them at the local hardware store, and found a set similar to the ford pieces that did the job, but had to "recut" the threads. If all else fails, you could try pushnuts, but they would have a hard time pulling the ornament against the body.

I have gt40p's on my 351w mustang, and another set on a 5.0 in a truck. I like the GT40p's a lot. Be ready for creative exhaust work though. On my 351W mustang, I stuck with the original cast iron manifolds (there post on this site about it.) On my truck, I had to cut and reweld one of the tubes on the header. There is a lot of writeups on these heads. They will never flow as much as the aftermarket alumninum heads. If you are on a budget, IMO these are the best choice for factory iron heads. 300hp seems to be what people claim to get with these heads, and I think I am a little under that on both my motors.

I have gt40p's on my 351w mustang, and another set on a 5.0 in a truck. I like the GT40p's a lot. Be ready for creative exhaust work though. On my 351W mustang, I stuck with the original cast iron manifolds (there post on this site about it.) On my truck, I had to cut and reweld one of the tubes on the header. There is a lot of writeups on these heads. They will never flow as much as the aftermarket alumninum heads. If you are on a budget, IMO these are the best choice for factory iron heads. 300hp seems to be what people claim to get with these heads, and I think I am a little under that on both my motors.

What heads do you have? If they are factory iron heads, you probabably will not make make much more horsepower, but you will make it at a lower RPM, and have better low end torque. I have drilled out 302 heads for a 351. It is really quite easy. All you need is a 1/2" drill bit and a drill press. The drill bit sort of self aligns.

What heads do you have? If they are factory iron heads, you probabably will not make make much more horsepower, but you will make it at a lower RPM, and have better low end torque. I have drilled out 302 heads for a 351. It is really quite easy. All you need is a 1/2" drill bit and a drill press. The drill bit sort of self aligns.

I doubt it is a NC,NF, or AN thread. Mine has a pipe fitting adaptor that threads in the radiator, and the steel line uses an inverted flair to thread into the adapter.

This is a tough question, there are a bunch that I really like. I actually really like candy apple red. Ford just got the tint of plain old ordinary red perfect. But I probably would order Lime Gold, just to be different! Tomorrow I may have a different answer though!!