Help me choose a Transmission

[StephenC 10]

I was told the C6 Is amonng the easiest to rebuild, but after taking one of mine apart im wonderng how accurate of a statement that IS LOL lot of parts in there and I am having a hard time telling what needs to be replaced s far as hard parts go....Definatley need a new front pump and all the shims LOL.

The 4R70 sounds like it may be a viable option for me now....What kinda over drive ratio does it have?

Mike

I believe OD is .85? Not 100% sure though ust going from memory

[panteramatt 1]

Heres all the info you need:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_AOD_transmission

 

http://www.becontrols.com/tech/aodefaq.htm

[panteramatt 1]

I seen the hammer shifter but looks like you would need to have a center console to use it?

[mcgirr455 10]

No need for a center console, it come with its own and then you trim it to fit your floor if needed.

[1952 10]

I was told the C6 Is amonng the easiest to rebuild, but after taking one of mine apart im wonderng how accurate of a statement that IS LOL lot of parts in there and I am having a hard time telling what needs to be replaced s far as hard parts go....Definatley need a new front pump and all the shims LOL.

The 4R70 sounds like it may be a viable option for me now....What kinda over drive ratio does it have?

Mike

 

 

Buy a Video for rebuilding your C6 You can google it

Very good and explained very well

 

1952

[sixt9stang 36]

Do you guys think that $300 is a good deal on a auto tranny out of a 2003 Mustang v6??

[bigperm2 10]

sixt9, how many miles? I just picked mine up today, with 78k miles for $300! I don't think it is the deal of the century, but I don't think its bad either. I did compare a 2003 and a 2002 model while I was there. From the outside, they apear to be are identical. I removed the speedo drive plug on both, no speedo gear in the 2003, but the 2002 model did have one.

[sixt9stang 36]

It has 40k I guess. Interesting info on the speedo gear though. I suppose getting the tranny from the 2003 might be a bad idea then?

[panteramatt 1]

Anyone know if the megashifter would fit and any writeups on swapping a fmx to a 4r?

[1952 10]

Anyone know if the megashifter would fit and any writeups on swapping a fmx to a 4r?

 

 

as long as it is a cable shift it can be made to work

 

1952

[bigperm2 10]

It has 40k I guess. Interesting info on the speedo gear though. I suppose getting the tranny from the 2003 might be a bad idea then?

 

I think it is a good deal. You can always check, and you could get lucky. I read a post that claimed that early 2003's had the gear. Also, If you are fealing bold, you could replace the output shaft with the right one (ebay, $18+shipping I think), and while you are at it, add the extra clutch in the direct drum so you have a v-8 strength tranny. I have never done it, but these transmissions don't look too difficult to take apart.

[bigperm2 10]

Thought I would add a few things that I did not find in all the google searches I did, and verify a few other things.

 

The FMX flexplate will work with the 4R70W. The block plate does not exactly interchange. But can be modified to work. Basically, the inspection cover bolt holes are not in the same place, but the starter and the upper half of the transmission are the same. The transmission fits tight in the tunnel, especially at the crossmember but no interferences. I am going to have to lower the transmission again to get the wiring in. The J-Mod is not that hard to do, and cost a total of $4. It is intimidating, now that I have done it once, it really is easy... That is assuming it works!! The FMX yoke does not interchange. I found a Lincoln Mark VIII in the boneyard, and used that yoke. A conversion u-joint will work to mate the mark VIII yoke to the 69 driveshaft.

 

The shift linkage is opposite of the FMX. the shifter rotates clockwise shifting from park to drive, but the lever is up on the FMX, and down on the 4R70W. So, the stock shifter pulls the lever on the FMX, and needs to push the lever on the 4R70W. The indexing of PRND21 is nearly identical in each transmission. the travel on the FMX is slightly longer than the 4R. I made a "rocker" assembly to mate the stock shifter to the 4R. It seems to index correctly. If I had more money than time, I would have liked to have used spherical rod ends for all the shift linkages.

 

Now to shorten the driveshaft, and route the exhaust!

[StephenC 10]

Thought I would add a few things that I did not find in all the google searches I did, and verify a few other things.

 

The FMX flexplate will work with the 4R70W. The block plate does not exactly interchange. But can be modified to work. Basically, the inspection cover bolt holes are not in the same place, but the starter and the upper half of the transmission are the same. The transmission fits tight in the tunnel, especially at the crossmember but no interferences. I am going to have to lower the transmission again to get the wiring in. The J-Mod is not that hard to do, and cost a total of $4. It is intimidating, now that I have done it once, it really is easy... That is assuming it works!! The FMX yoke does not interchange. I found a Lincoln Mark VIII in the boneyard, and used that yoke. A conversion u-joint will work to mate the mark VIII yoke to the 69 driveshaft.

 

The shift linkage is opposite of the FMX. the shifter rotates clockwise shifting from park to drive, but the lever is up on the FMX, and down on the 4R70W. So, the stock shifter pulls the lever on the FMX, and needs to push the lever on the 4R70W. The indexing of PRND21 is nearly identical in each transmission. the travel on the FMX is slightly longer than the 4R. I made a "rocker" assembly to mate the stock shifter to the 4R. It seems to index correctly. If I had more money than time, I would have liked to have used spherical rod ends for all the shift linkages.

 

Now to shorten the driveshaft, and route the exhaust!

Man thanks allot this has really helped me. I hear you have to shorten the drive shaft 1.15" and the exhaust should route normally with a H pipe installed its the headers that I cant find anywhere that will clear the bell housing.

[MikeStang 247]

So what Cross member did ya use? or did you have to modify an AOD Unit?

Looks nice man....Also what does the Jmod consist of?>

Mike

[bigperm2 10]

Man thanks allot this has really helped me. I hear you have to shorten the drive shaft 1.15" and the exhaust should route normally with a H pipe installed its the headers that I cant find anywhere that will clear the bell housing.

I am kinda surprised that headers are such a problem. You would think the widest part of the bellhousing is at the motor, which is the same for both transmissions. But, obviously its a problem. Shorty headers always solve it! or, if the issue is the angle of the collector, you could modify the outlet to point further away from the trans. I am using stock exhaust manifolds... a rather boring solution I know;)

 

So what Cross member did ya use? or did you have to modify an AOD Unit?

Looks nice man....Also what does the Jmod consist of?>

Mike

I fabbed the cross member using 2x2x3/16 tube steel and 3/16 flat plate for the tabs, stiffeners and gussets.

 

The J-mod is more or less a shift kit, that was recommended by one of the engineers that designed the transmission. You drill a few holes in the valve body separator plate, and remove a couple springs. The idea is that the durability of the transmission is increased by increasing shift speed. Apparently there are a lot of complaints about slow 1-2 and 2-3 shifts with the stock trans, and the j-mod eliminates this flair in the shifts. I can point you towards a couple websites if you are interested.

Edited April 9, 2010 by bigperm2

[MikeStang 247]

Point away Perm, Im getting my 80k Tranny this weekend for $200.00 and will rebuild it when the time comes....Can you send some dimensions on that Xmember or take a few more close up shots.

Mike

[bigperm2 10]

Forgive my expensive scanner (iphone) and my elementry school hurry up handwriting, but here are the dims. One sheet are the parts. All cut from a 2x2 tube steel, the other is the assebled part. Basically, I built the x-member on the car though. bolt tabs to the car, then tack weld extenders, tach weld bridge. Carefully dissasemble, then fully weld everything and add stiffeners as required. There was a lot of grinding for clearance etc.

[StephenC 10]

Hey guys just an update on the build. I just got my tranny today! (will post pics later) Its a 3.8 case with 5.4 internals so basically it can handle anything I decide to throw at it. Its out of a 99 Mustang that the guy had a 351W on fresh rebuild with the V8 internals 0 MILES!!! Not only did I get the trans I got the torque converter with a 2500 stall 2 wire harness and a fabed dipstick tube that he had to make for his 351W. I paid $300.00 shipped for it which I think was a great deal. And by the way to MikeStang I found a guy who makes the X members laser cut and there perfect because you can use your H pipe with no modification and it wont be an inch from the ground! He sells a kit which includes the X member shifrod and range sensor mounting bracket for $179.95. If your interested let me know I can send you his email.

Edited April 13, 2010 by StephenC

[MikeStang 247]

Hell yeah, send me his email :P I have some much other stuff I gotta build I would rather spend the 179 bucks and get one that fits right.

Thanks for the pic tho Perm.

Got any idea how much the guy paid to have the tranny redone?

Mike

[StephenC 10]

And here she will sit for the next couple weeks

Mike the guys email is joepersad@aol.com he's a real cool guy he knows everything about retrofitting these trans he has done about 10 of them in mustangs 67-70. He can answer any questions you have as well as sell you the parts you need to do this swap. The guy who I bought it from works at a transmission shop in PA so I'm sure he got a hell of a deal!

[StephenC 10]

Thought I would add a few things that I did not find in all the google searches I did, and verify a few other things.

 

The FMX flexplate will work with the 4R70W. The block plate does not exactly interchange. But can be modified to work. Basically, the inspection cover bolt holes are not in the same place, but the starter and the upper half of the transmission are the same. The transmission fits tight in the tunnel, especially at the crossmember but no interferences. I am going to have to lower the transmission again to get the wiring in. The J-Mod is not that hard to do, and cost a total of $4. It is intimidating, now that I have done it once, it really is easy... That is assuming it works!! The FMX yoke does not interchange. I found a Lincoln Mark VIII in the boneyard, and used that yoke. A conversion u-joint will work to mate the mark VIII yoke to the 69 driveshaft.

 

The shift linkage is opposite of the FMX. the shifter rotates clockwise shifting from park to drive, but the lever is up on the FMX, and down on the 4R70W. So, the stock shifter pulls the lever on the FMX, and needs to push the lever on the 4R70W. The indexing of PRND21 is nearly identical in each transmission. the travel on the FMX is slightly longer than the 4R. I made a "rocker" assembly to mate the stock shifter to the 4R. It seems to index correctly. If I had more money than time, I would have liked to have used spherical rod ends for all the shift linkages.

 

Now to shorten the driveshaft, and route the exhaust!

Hey bud I was just looking for a shift rod like yours and cant find one anywere. What did you make yours out of and dimensions of it would be great.

[StephenC 10]

Does anyone know what size U joint is on a factory drive shaft from a 69 mustang with a 351W and C4? I'll need a converter U Joint from a 1330 to my mustang.

[bigperm2 10]

I made the whole shift rocker out of 1/4"x3/4" flat plate. I don't have exact dimensions, but it is a tight fit and needs to be fabbed to fit. On the rocker, part, the center to center of hole distance is 5.5". The pivot point is about 2.5" from the bottom. You will have to look at the pictures to get an idea of where all the bends go. I can attach more pics if you are interested when I get home next week.

For your u-joint I bought part #353. I don't know the spicer combo joint numbers off the top of my head. 1330 to 1310 perhaps.

Nice find on that transmission BTW! Looks like you go a good one.

[StephenC 10]

I made the whole shift rocker out of 1/4"x3/4" flat plate. I don't have exact dimensions, but it is a tight fit and needs to be fabbed to fit. On the rocker, part, the center to center of hole distance is 5.5". The pivot point is about 2.5" from the bottom. You will have to look at the pictures to get an idea of where all the bends go. I can attach more pics if you are interested when I get home next week.

For your u-joint I bought part #353. I don't know the spicer combo joint numbers off the top of my head. 1330 to 1310 perhaps.

Nice find on that transmission BTW! Looks like you go a good one.

Hey thanks Big I found out today it was a 1330 to 1310 U joint just like you said it was like $25.00 but that just means I'm one step closer to putting this thing in.

[StephenC 10]

Ok this will be my last question I hope. For the 4R70W swap which transmission mount will work? I'm looking at this one now and its a polyurethane one and all its says it fits 1965-1973 thats it heres a picture of it I found it on CJPonyParts.Com