BlackGMC 10 Report post Posted May 7, 2007 Edlebrock Vic Jr.... But it really depends on your cam RPM range and if your auto your torque converter. need to pick a cam first, then match an intake and converter to that.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burritoboi5 10 Report post Posted May 7, 2007 Well I'm going with this cam and I had the motor balanced with a flywheel so once I get my T-5 I'll be putting that behind it. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CCA%2DCL31%2D442%2D8&autoview=sku Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlackGMC 10 Report post Posted May 7, 2007 Thats a pretty big cam for a 302, IMO I would get a larger LSA (lobe seperation) with a 110, that thing is going to have a nasty idle and I would try and get a 112 with the same specs. Since your a manual and having that cam I would go with a edlebrock vic jr (single plane high rise). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burritoboi5 10 Report post Posted May 7, 2007 Hehehe, this aint planned to be no grandma's car :beta1: I figure I can get away with that cam anyways since I'm running roller lifters. And if not this car may get mini tubbed and quickly turn into a street sleeper with some giggle juice. I actually always planned on throwing the giggle at it hence the forged components. And since this is my first time I get to make stupid mistakes from time to time :cowboy: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlackGMC 10 Report post Posted May 7, 2007 Instead Comp Cams 284HR I would go with one of these 284HR 512/512 212/212 @110 or 271HR 533/533 215/215 @110 more specs http://www.compcams.com/technical/Catalogs/106-07/64-71_230.pdf Hehehe, this aint planned to be no grandma's car What kinda compression are you going to be running? You will need to up it some so it moves the torque curve down a few hundred RPM so it wont be a dog during regular driving. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burritoboi5 10 Report post Posted May 8, 2007 Honestly haven't calculated compression ratio yet but the 284hr is sitting in my garage so I think that's what I'll be using. I was told it would be a a good choice. Just may have to up the comp ratio and run higher octane fuel. I can live with that Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlackGMC 10 Report post Posted May 8, 2007 I was not trying to talk you out of it, just givin ya options. I mention the comp ratio because bigger cam usually like more compression. you can change your compression ratio rather easily by head gasket thickness or just pulling the heads off and having them milled afterwards. I will say this, with that cam your going to LOVE the idle!!! my bro has a similar cam on a roller motor and the idle, well it basically gives you wood when it first fires up. Oh and another thing with that cam, the springs that came with it or the ones that your going to have to run, you have to let the motor get to operating temp before laying the hammer down on it. Springs for high lift cams are brittle when they are cold, but once up to temp they are great!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Truck 12 Report post Posted May 8, 2007 new cylinder heads so I can run unleaded Back the bus up. I've triple-checked my car, and my coupe's dash reads "Unleaded Fuel Only". Am I wierd? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted May 8, 2007 Back the bus up. I've triple-checked my car, and my coupe's dash reads "Unleaded Fuel Only". Am I wierd? someone add the decal. no 69 or 70 came from the factory with one of those decals, in fact i don't even think unleaded fuel came out until the mid to late 70's Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted May 8, 2007 Back the bus up. I've triple-checked my car, and my coupe's dash reads "Unleaded Fuel Only". Am I wierd? I hate to be the one to bring it to your attention but yes, yes you are.:w00t: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burritoboi5 10 Report post Posted May 8, 2007 Aw no worries. I appreciate your trying to keep me informed. I'm looking for this car to be more of a hotrod than a daily driver though so I'm tending to go a little more radical on everything. I went out last night and got some work done too.....probably won't get back out there to work untill thursday but I should be able to get a considerable amount of work done then and maybe this saturday I'll either assemble the motor or keep plugging along with the metal work. We'll jsut have to see Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burritoboi5 10 Report post Posted May 10, 2007 WOOOOHOOOO got my block back today :boat: so now all I'm missing is the intake and carb which go on last anyways. So hopefully this weekend I can start getting it together. Just gonna take my time and do it right the first time. Also when I was in the machine shop the guy there who has been helping me with the block said he just recently built one with edelbrock heads and a similiar cam ( 225 instead of 224 like mine) but otherwise a very similiar engine and it put out 400 horse. And since mine is all forged I can always make it giggle if I feel I need more power :beta1: But I think if it made 325 or more I would be happy and then I can throw a hundred shot at it. boy.....NOS keeps coming up doesn't it? :yes: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Truck 12 Report post Posted May 11, 2007 I hate to be the one to bring it to your attention but yes, yes you are.:w00t: It's nothing new. Technically, I shouldn't even be here since my shark-nose is registered as a 68.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burritoboi5 10 Report post Posted May 11, 2007 It's ok we still will let you hang out with us. Even if you jacked my thread :nono: hehe atleast post something nice about my project :yes: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burritoboi5 10 Report post Posted May 12, 2007 Well, I taped off the engine block and got it all painted so that once it is cured tomorow I can start cleaning assembly. Or so I thought.....I tried assembling the pistons heads and connecting rods but it seems they simply don't fit. I can't get the piston head bearing to fit through the damned connecting rod......How hard should this be? Should I just use more force or is it the wrong one? I would think it would fit nice and easy so I'm not going to try to force anything. I really hope there is just something wrong with my method because the machine shop I got the parts through is only open on weekdays. O and my Sawzall broke tonight too....F*&K :mad: Well here's a pic of the block anyways Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted May 12, 2007 So you are trying to connect the pistons to the rods with the wrist pins? If that is the case, factory wise those are press fit and require a hydraulic press to assemble. There are aftermarket floating pins (rods have been bushed or honed out) but factory are pressed. -Stephen Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burritoboi5 10 Report post Posted May 12, 2007 Yeah trying to get the big silver rod in the piston through the connecting rod. And I don't have a hydraulic press...... What should I do? will a vise with some wood blocks work? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Protowrxs 111 Report post Posted May 12, 2007 Yeah trying to get the big silver rod in the piston through the connecting rod. And I don't have a hydraulic press...... What should I do? will a vise with some wood blocks work? I wouldn't.. you need to have a machine shop press them in. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Arrowhead 10 Report post Posted May 12, 2007 I believe freezing the pins aids in getting them in, but they still use a press. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pakrat 1,043 Report post Posted May 12, 2007 Well, I taped off the engine block and got it all painted so that once it is cured tomorow I can start cleaning assembly. Or so I thought.....I tried assembling the pistons heads and connecting rods but it seems they simply don't fit. I can't get the piston head bearing to fit through the damned connecting rod......How hard should this be? Should I just use more force or is it the wrong one? I would think it would fit nice and easy so I'm not going to try to force anything. I really hope there is just something wrong with my method because the machine shop I got the parts through is only open on weekdays. O and my Sawzall broke tonight too....F*&K :mad: Well here's a pic of the block anyways Not to sidetrack on your current dilema but just a heads up, I discovered when painting my components individually before reassembly that the cylinder heads don't exactly completely cover that nice neat area you obvisously masked off so once you re-attach them you will probably see some bare metal still. I ended up using my old gaskets as part of the mask off to make sure all visable areas got coated with paint, just a heads up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burritoboi5 10 Report post Posted May 12, 2007 Yeah no worries Pak, I guess I'll deal with touch up at a later point in time. I was hoping to get the engine assembled tomorow but it doesn't look like that will happen enless a friend of mine has a press, so I'll check with him tomorow morning. And then I'll go and buy a new sawzall.... The milwaukee lasted 20 years before it bit the bullet. I pulled it apart and the front drive is snapped in half. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlackGMC 10 Report post Posted May 12, 2007 Every engine I have had in my stang I had the machine shop assemble it, mine usually only costs an extra 40-50 bucks. BTW make sure you are absolutely clean and working in a clean enviroment while assembling the engine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnickel 10,004 Report post Posted May 12, 2007 Every engine I have had in my stang I had the machine shop assemble it, mine usually only costs an extra 40-50 bucks. BTW make sure you are absolutely clean and working in a clean enviroment while assembling the engine. the machine shops around here charge around $150-250 to assemble a short block IIRC. so 40-50 bucks is cheap Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BlackGMC 10 Report post Posted May 12, 2007 the machine shops around here charge around $150-250 to assemble a short block IIRC. so 40-50 bucks is cheap Yeah it is cheap, plus I am really good friends with the owner and I have sent him a TON of business and so has my father. Especially my father, he has several racing buddies (circle track and drag strip). So I kinda get a discount....:devil2::devil2::devil2::devil2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burritoboi5 10 Report post Posted May 13, 2007 Well problem solved.... First off they weren't the press in type. Second the pistons are for a stroker motor and is a special combo or somethin or another to give me a better rod angle ratio. But in the end I went back to the machine shop and they bored the connecting rods and now they fit nicely. Tonight I cleaned the block and installed the cam and crank. I would have liked to go further but I somehow lost my cam thrust plate....so I need to wait to get that. Anyways its going together well so far except for me constantly worrying about cleanliness and that I'll spend all this time and money and have the damned thing explode on me :nono: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
