Abomination 0 Report post Posted September 10, 2023 Hey guys, really stuck. I swapped brake boosters and the old one has a symetrical circle for the pushrood, new one has a hockey stick shaped pushrod. It bolted up fine and looks identical and everything works great, only issue is the brake light switch wont fit on the hockey puck shaped pushrod. Does that booster have a different switch or am I being crazy? Pictures are just quick screenshots from the internet and not my brake boosters, but the pushrods look like these two Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach1 Driver 560 Report post Posted September 10, 2023 Many places sell brake boosters but they are the wrong ones for our cars. There are several videos by West Coast Classic Cougar on the correct boosters and where to get them rebuilt, or you can buy a rebuilt from them. I would recommend a rebuilt over a new one. He discusses the differences here also: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbW_v_DdEuU&t=50s Here are some resources: 1. Boosterdeweyexchange.com 2. Chockostang is a highly recommended rebuilder of steering components and he recommends: Midwest Remanufacturing 3. The old Global West GM recommends: Karps Power Brake Service 4. Harmon Classic Brakes 2 RPM and bigmal reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted September 10, 2023 Generally speaking for an original system; the curved arm is for a 69 and the straight arm is for the 70. The brake switch fits onto the brake pedal post. The switches can be for manual brakes or power brakes. Brian 3 RPM, bigmal and det0326 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Abomination 0 Report post Posted September 10, 2023 So I already switched it and don't really want to do double work, it was a pain in the butt. Is there a brake switch that fits the curved arm? Searching the 69-70 brake switches look the same? Thanks in advance guys Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted September 10, 2023 Welcome to the forum, what year is your Mustang? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Abomination 0 Report post Posted September 10, 2023 1970 base convertible. And thank you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jjstang 51 Report post Posted September 11, 2023 My 69 has the curved one. But that’s no help for a 70. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Brian Conway 264 Report post Posted September 11, 2023 NAPA shows two switches' available one for Power Brakes Echlin SL201 and one for Manual Brakes Echlin SL200. Most venders don't describe the difference. Brian Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
det0326 179 Report post Posted September 11, 2023 On 9/10/2023 at 12:26 PM, Abomination said: So I already switched it and don't really want to do double work, it was a pain in the butt. Is there a brake switch that fits the curved arm? Searching the 69-70 brake switches look the same? Thanks in advance guys Sorry but i think you would be a world ahead to change the booster now with the correct one. The 69 as u know is offset making the pushrod pivot point different and the pushrod is not aligned straight. Not saying it won't work but it will soon wear the vacuum seal. 1 Mach1 Driver reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ThePoose 37 Report post Posted September 12, 2023 Repeating some of the same here. The booster shouldn't affect the switch, but maybe you got a manual switch for an auto (or vice versa)? The price difference between the two is pretty significant if I remember right. Even though it works, the booster you have will likely fail sooner than later. How soon will likely depend on how much you drive your car. Definitely watch that WCCC video to understand why, or just for all around knowledge. Brakes will still work, so no worries. And if you do decide on a rebuild of one, thumbs up for Booster Dewey. 1 Mach1 Driver reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kblagron 20 Report post Posted September 18, 2023 I have a 70 manual trans that did not have a brake booster when I bought it, but did originally. I bought a Scott Drake brake booster for a 70 Mustang, and it had a different shaped pin than the original booster had, and I had an issue with the brake light being on all the time. I compared a photo of the original .vs. what I had, and it was apparent that I needed to shave some of the pin to get the brake light to not be engaged. It took me a few iterations with a Dremel tool to shave enough of the pin so that the brake light would turn off, but really wasn't that hard. The photo shown has the booster installed in my car with the pin off of the pedal on the left, and the one on the right is what it should look like. I shaved off the end of the pin and got it working. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted October 15, 2023 I have a ‘70 convertible automatic with a dual diaphragm stock style booster. The ‘70’s use a straight rod. The booster bolt/stud mounting hardware configuration to the car is also different from ‘69 to ‘70. This can cause other issues under dash. I have an upgraded braking system that uses the stock style booster with a late model Ford Explorer/Ranger master cylinder, and 4 wheel disc setup from late model Mustang Cobra. I never liked the original design, so ditched the pedal actuated switch and used a pressure switch, similar to below diagram. It works great, just make sure it is on the rear brake side of the reservoir. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted October 15, 2023 Just look at my pictures, my Wilwood proportioning valve had a spot for the brake pressure switch and that’s where it is mounted Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Vicfreg 773 Report post Posted October 15, 2023 I meant to say I was just looking at my pictures…. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
