AusTex70

I'll make a parts list and take some more 
I'll be happy to post more info on my trunk finish out.
Don't be afraid of the trunk money... . Most of the time he is on the laptop and can be distracted easily.  Here is more info on the overflow bottle - link

Update: He replied back to me on Youtube, and I was able to purchase a set of plans. 
I should have them this week, and I'll report back. 

Next on the list was dealing with the Holley Sniper. One of the biggest issues is idle, it would not idle properly and die at when I was driving and brought the car to a stop. 
I had read about the Sniper RF / wiring issues, so I address that first. The wiring was a mess, and not done properly. I found wires twisted together, and wrapped in tape, bad crimp connectors, and sloppy wiring. I decided to pull everything out under the hood and rewire.
I also did the math on the amps that Holley Sniper pulled,  upgraded stereo, and vintage air. I upgraded the alternator with a 1 wire, and two high amp fuses. 
One for the alternator, the other for the audio equipment in the trunk. Also the main power and grounds to the battery and alternator where not large enough, and where in bad shape.
From what I've read on the Holley EFI forum you need to do a few things for the Sniper. Proper grounding, direct +/- to battery, good shielded spark-plug wires. Also make sure wires are not crossing the spark-plug wires. I also the RF cable suppressors on the leads to the Sniper unit, can't hurt. 
Powermaster Street Alternators 577491 (black color) - Part Number: PWM-577491.
Bussmann AMG High-Amp Stud Mount Fuses AMG-175, Part Number: BSS-AMG175
Yarachel 50PCS RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3.5mm/ 5mm/ 7mm/ 9mm/ 13mm Diameter Cable
 

Got my laser engraved blue halo LED push button switches from a supplier in Australia.
Two of the switches are for my VHX Dash, they are momentary push buttons that allow you to change the settings in the speedometer and text display.
Two for the power door locks, One for the interior lights, One for my fog/halo DRL, One for the emergency override - on for my engine cooling fans, and one for the emergency override – on for my trans cooler fans
My power window switches will go where the cigarette lighter is on the console box, working on that next
 
 
 
 for my interior lights

Well, the day has finally come.  The car is about to be transformed with new paint.  It waited in the shop for 9 months in line to get to this point.  I will document the progress.....   I am now going to open my favorite beverage and have a toast the car I have named "Gerry".  Named after the older gentleman who I acquired the car from. He had planned for years to restore it, but never got to it.  He passed away this January, and never got to see the car completed.  I will make sure his Daughter and Family get the pictures when it is done.

Update: He replied back to me on Youtube, and I was able to purchase a set of plans. 
I should have them this week, and I'll report back. 

I have to do mine soon.  I was going to paint them, including the "Mach 1", then use a block and sand it down to the metal.  

PS Mach 1 rocker installed. 
 

Decided to work on the MACH 1 trim. They where not on the car when I bought it. Luckily all the pieces where there, just scratched up. 
I took some steel wool, and cleaned up the MACH 1 down to the bare metal. Then Masked those letters,  scuffed, primed, painted. 
The paint is Krylon Metallic dark metal #2769, and the Krylon clear coat on top. I think this color works well with the wheels. The Chrome strips where in ok shape, I might replace them, but they will work for now. 
All the studs had to be repaired, so I drilled them out, and epoxied some bolt onto the trim. As for the clips, I was able to find some at NAPA #665-1917 that worked. 
 
 

PS Mach 1 rocker installed. 
 

PS Mach 1 rocker installed. 
 

My garage was smelling like gas, ALOT! So I decided to investigate and dig into the fuel lines, and gas tank.  
Poor wiring and the wrong type of hoses, gas seeping from the connections, and the main fuel line routed next to the drive shaft!!!
Bought some SS 3/8 PTFE Hose and 6AN fittings, and bulk head connectors from Hot Rod Fuel Hose. 
I also used these nifty connectors in the engine bay from Hotrod Hippie. 

I have had fuel smell from tank vents in the past, so I decided to go overkill on the tank vent hose.
Using some 5/16 Gates Barricade Injection Fuel hose, overkill, but I had some from another project.) to a Newton TPV6 Pressure release valve, then to a hardline loop and draining out the rear of the car. 
More info on the GT500 hardline loop here: link
The Newton valve is cool, it opens when you have pressure, and closes when things cool off. So no gas tank vent smell in the garage. 

The PO had purchased a new Tanks Inc system with a in tank pump. The only negative about this tank set up is having all the connections on top, so something needed to be done to protect those connections. The sound of the pump was also noisy. I added some sound deadener to the top of the tank and the entire trunk area. I also started to work on finishing out the trunk with a false floor. With the new floor, sound deadener, and a rubber mat - I can't hear the pump. 
I have zero smell now, and I think the Sniper is running better.

Some more progress photos. Tires that came on the car where dry-rotted. Decided to go up a rim size, 15x8
U.S. Mags Rambler U111 Gunmetal with Machined Lip Wheels 
Rear - P235/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (28.9)
Front - P215/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (26.9)

If and when you change out the 3.00:1 gears, and if you want to sell them, let me know please. 

Don't forget to figure in your tire size. Plenty of online calculators to compute this. 
I have a T5Z behind my 351 Cleveland, with a 9inch 3.00 open diff. My TZ5 is the following: 
T5Z (MDL purchase)- 2.95, 1.94, 1.34, 1, .63 OD
Rear - P235/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (28.9)
Front - P215/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (26.9)
Currently when I shift into 5th, the RPS drop below 2000K, at 75MPH. The Cleveland does not like that, it likes higher RPMs. 
4th gear is used the most on the highway.
Planning on changing out the 3:00, leaning towards  3:55. I still want a usable 1st gear. 
 

Some more progress photos. Tires that came on the car where dry-rotted. Decided to go up a rim size, 15x8
U.S. Mags Rambler U111 Gunmetal with Machined Lip Wheels 
Rear - P235/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (28.9)
Front - P215/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (26.9)

Don't forget to figure in your tire size. Plenty of online calculators to compute this. 
I have a T5Z behind my 351 Cleveland, with a 9inch 3.00 open diff. My TZ5 is the following: 
T5Z (MDL purchase)- 2.95, 1.94, 1.34, 1, .63 OD
Rear - P235/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (28.9)
Front - P215/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (26.9)
Currently when I shift into 5th, the RPS drop below 2000K, at 75MPH. The Cleveland does not like that, it likes higher RPMs. 
4th gear is used the most on the highway.
Planning on changing out the 3:00, leaning towards  3:55. I still want a usable 1st gear. 
 

Some more progress photos. Tires that came on the car where dry-rotted. Decided to go up a rim size, 15x8
U.S. Mags Rambler U111 Gunmetal with Machined Lip Wheels 
Rear - P235/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (28.9)
Front - P215/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (26.9)

Sounds good to me!

So I never posted it in this thread but it was at that point that I was taking it to get the AC system charged and it backed into a tree damaging the passenger door, front fender and ripping the side mirror off.  I couldn't even look at the car for a few weeks.


I took it to a couple shows with the dents and then I got in touch with a new body shop since the one I was waiting on was taking forever and it ihas been at that shop since Feb 2023.  The engine was pulled and inspected and found to not be the original 302 block so I sold it and the transmission.  Will be installing a built T5 and the plan is to build a roller 351W with stock bottom end and new intake, headers and carb.  I already have the carb.

Yes, doing the modern drive line conversion.  Pretty excited to make the car faster than my 2013 F150 twin turbo truck.

Looks to be very well optioned, including A/C, but didn't see that in your engine bay photo.  Should be a very fun car!

@kblagron - the car has all the pieces, still inventorying all the parts. Car has been repainted, and the floor pans have been patched. For some reason they painted it Mitsubishi Pure white!  I do have new floor pans and Seat pedestals to be in stalled. PO had a picture of the Marti Report, not the actual report. Not sure of the full story of how and who he bought it from. 
 

Iam in North Austin. As for the "Problem Areas", the entire car is a bit of a basket case. It was obvious that the past owner did not know anything about Mustangs, first thing I did was rework the cooling system. 
It would not heat up past 160,  I found crud stuck in the T-stat, and no restrictor plate and incorrect T-stat for a Cleveland. So, I flushed the block, had the radiator boiled and tested, all new hoses and correct T-stat set up. I also bought the correct fan shroud for the car, installed a 7 blade fan and fan clutch used on the cobra Jet engine. Now that the car is warming up and cooling properly, I can focus on reworking the Holley Sniper and Fuel system. 
I had a hard time tracking down the proper fan clutch to use with the 7 blade fan I ordered the fan off of NPD. 
8600-12 FAN BLADE ASSY, 7 BLADE
8146-5 FAN SHROUD
Amazon:
Dorman 23733: Water Pump Stud Kit - 5/16-18 x 7/16 and 5/16-24 x 5/8 Overall Length of 1-1/4
Hayden Automotive 2747 Premium Fan Clutch
 

@AusTex70 I saw this post and I live off Anderson Mill in Cedar Park.  If you want to get together, drink a beer or work on stuff let me know.  My 69 is in the paint shop for a while.  I've taken about every part off it and put them all back on so I could help with your reassembly.