AusTex70

My new plate arrived!

yes..

Looks like I've been invited to SEMA this year. November 5-8, 2024. Anyone else going? If so, we should connect. -Mark

Next time your down this way, @TexasEd will meet you for a beer. We both live in N/W Austin. Iam in Real Estate, I can tell you first hand the market has been wacky these last few years! Sometime Austin feels like a small town, who knows.. I might know your brother? Been here almost 35 years.

That is the town square of Georgetown Texas, about 30 north of Austin. They have a early morning car show once a month. Begins around 7:30am... done at 10am. There are shops, and a dinner in the square. IMO one of the best, show and shine car shows around. almost all classic cars and trucks. lets see if this link will work... facebook.com/100000231775626/videos/1286812216027855/

Sound clip with cutouts open...

Some photo's of the muffler install. Quicktime Time Cutouts - QTEC66 with Dynomax 17731 Super Turbo Muffler.

It's the 3.5 inch hand held screen that came with the sniper. I slapped together a magnetic mount, that way I can remove it and stick it in the glove box. It was not going to be a permeant solution, but's it worked out well, and I have not come up better solution! Being magnetic, I can angle it, and move it around easily. I used a round magnet that sticks to a round disc (from a old cell phone mount) and a Keeper MG hand gun magnet from Amazon.

PSA - I took a chance on some ebay floor mats from Turkey. They turned out much better than expected, and arrived with in a week. They are actually cut to correct shape, not a universal shape like my ACC mats. (Acc is the one on the right. ) He also said he can do custom shapes, I need one for my trunk.

Test fitting the matching Dakota Digital controls.

Now that I've figured out how to post pictures... Here are some photos of my Vintage Air install. I also repainted the lower dash. I used Krylon Industrial Semi-Flat Black K01613A07, Zoro.com had the best price. Zoro is the consumer site of Grainger. The glove box had not been painted, but shows the color match.

Looks like my smugmug account will also work

I like seeing pictures again. wow - Pictures!!!!

more info with pictures... https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/1970-oem-front-disc-brake-binding-solved.1224052/?post_id=10963909#post-10963909

I have a Sniper and in-tank fuel pump. I have a hidden kill switch that disconnects the ground to the fuel pump really. Just like Smh00n - I forget about it all the time!!! ;)

Solved! The bolts that came with the kit are too long, and hit the back of the disc.

install pdf - Item that is in Red.

Still can't post pictures... here is the part on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/304852605253?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=304852605253&targetid=1645685073328&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9193034&poi=&campaignid=20133407470&mkgroupid=147476396765&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073328&abcId=9312979&merchantid=137686692&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw1emzBhB8EiwAHwZZxd5K2WTn3l9mNIX1yyKCPjQ0DGxyWH6aSN5smuL9mOrnZtcs32N5UhoCWQ4QAvD_BwE

Iam having a issue on my OEM front 1970 brakes. I did a full brake job, new rotors, calipers, etc. I can move rotate the disc by hand, but as soon as I tighten down the "Stabilizer bracket" , I can't move the rotor, it binds. Kind of hard to explain with out photos. But what Iam calling the stabilizer bracket is the metal shield, that has four bolts on the back of the caliper - and the brake line goes thru the middle. The previous owner removed them, but the new brake calipers included them, so I wanted to run them, maybe they are not needed?

How hard was that to install? Maybe I should of done that while I had the upper and lower dash out!!!

I never found out what the issue was. Actually, MDL opened a ticket with Tremec, and I sent it directly to Tremec, all coved under warranty. It is possible the PO put the wrong type of tranny fluid, or gear oil in it. There are many threads about what oil to use in the T5Z. Could that of been the issue? Who knows, everything he did to the car, I had to redo. It shift great! Iam really liking it. I do want to change out the cable clutch to hydraulic.

Well maybe not 38... that was with my laser thermometer pointed at the center vent. With one of those digital thermometer that clips onto the vent, Iam reading a few degrees hotter maybe closer to 45, which is ok! Have not been on a long test drive...actually going to hot rod night at the local Sonic, so I'll be on the freeway for 20 minutes, should be a good test. It's 90 and humid out, at 5:43 pm here in Austin Texas.

OK - here are a few things to take note of. My car was factory A/C car, so it had the vents. I did remove the lower dash vents and re-felt them. They are nice and stiff now. I hate the Vintage Air controls that came with the system. So Iam using the Dakota Digital Vintage Air controls. You can see a picture on instagram. @cruisercrap is my account. It matches well with the rest of the Dakota Digital Dash. You really need to remove the lower dash, I don't know how people claim to install it with out doing so. It did give me a chance to repaint the dash. I Scuffed and repainted with Krylon Industrial - Zoro.com (which is the consumer site of granger) has the best price $10.79 a can. Zoro part # G0742861 The install was easy, I took a few weekends, only because I rewired the dash, repainted the lower dash, ordered replacement switches, etc... It took me 3 tries to find the correct belt length!!!! Dayco 17560 worked for me. Other people used 175460. I charged it using my gauges, and estimating 1.8lbs of 134A. two 12 oz cans, and then estimated the rest using a scale. It worked ok. Then I took it to a friends shop, and used machine to evacuate - I realized I was several oz low. Using his $8K machine , we then put in the right amount of 1.8lbs. Did not even pay attention to the gauges. Works even better now. Leave your self enough slack on the ducts that attach to the middle OEM vent. I cut them a bit short, and it was a bitch getting that together!!! Last tip - Order a universal hose kit. Iam a Vintage Air dealer, and I always tell customers to do this. The reason is the hoses where a bit long, and the connectors where at the wrong angle. The A/C hoses are stiff and you really cant rotate a connector into place very easy. Being able to lay them out, mark the direction of the connectors, and have a local shop crimp the hose is worth it. I even replace one of the connectors from 90 degree angle to a 45 degree angle. I also used A/C and heater line clips from Squeeg's Hot Rob Shop. It make the install look great, no Zip ties. If I think of anything else... I'll post it here. -Mark