AusTex70

I like seeing pictures again. wow - Pictures!!!!

more info with pictures... https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/1970-oem-front-disc-brake-binding-solved.1224052/?post_id=10963909#post-10963909

I have a Sniper and in-tank fuel pump. I have a hidden kill switch that disconnects the ground to the fuel pump really. Just like Smh00n - I forget about it all the time!!! ;)

Solved! The bolts that came with the kit are too long, and hit the back of the disc.

install pdf - Item that is in Red.

Still can't post pictures... here is the part on ebay https://www.ebay.com/itm/304852605253?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=304852605253&targetid=1645685073328&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9193034&poi=&campaignid=20133407470&mkgroupid=147476396765&rlsatarget=pla-1645685073328&abcId=9312979&merchantid=137686692&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw1emzBhB8EiwAHwZZxd5K2WTn3l9mNIX1yyKCPjQ0DGxyWH6aSN5smuL9mOrnZtcs32N5UhoCWQ4QAvD_BwE

Iam having a issue on my OEM front 1970 brakes. I did a full brake job, new rotors, calipers, etc. I can move rotate the disc by hand, but as soon as I tighten down the "Stabilizer bracket" , I can't move the rotor, it binds. Kind of hard to explain with out photos. But what Iam calling the stabilizer bracket is the metal shield, that has four bolts on the back of the caliper - and the brake line goes thru the middle. The previous owner removed them, but the new brake calipers included them, so I wanted to run them, maybe they are not needed?

How hard was that to install? Maybe I should of done that while I had the upper and lower dash out!!!

I never found out what the issue was. Actually, MDL opened a ticket with Tremec, and I sent it directly to Tremec, all coved under warranty. It is possible the PO put the wrong type of tranny fluid, or gear oil in it. There are many threads about what oil to use in the T5Z. Could that of been the issue? Who knows, everything he did to the car, I had to redo. It shift great! Iam really liking it. I do want to change out the cable clutch to hydraulic.

Well maybe not 38... that was with my laser thermometer pointed at the center vent. With one of those digital thermometer that clips onto the vent, Iam reading a few degrees hotter maybe closer to 45, which is ok! Have not been on a long test drive...actually going to hot rod night at the local Sonic, so I'll be on the freeway for 20 minutes, should be a good test. It's 90 and humid out, at 5:43 pm here in Austin Texas.

OK - here are a few things to take note of. My car was factory A/C car, so it had the vents. I did remove the lower dash vents and re-felt them. They are nice and stiff now. I hate the Vintage Air controls that came with the system. So Iam using the Dakota Digital Vintage Air controls. You can see a picture on instagram. @cruisercrap is my account. It matches well with the rest of the Dakota Digital Dash. You really need to remove the lower dash, I don't know how people claim to install it with out doing so. It did give me a chance to repaint the dash. I Scuffed and repainted with Krylon Industrial - Zoro.com (which is the consumer site of granger) has the best price $10.79 a can. Zoro part # G0742861 The install was easy, I took a few weekends, only because I rewired the dash, repainted the lower dash, ordered replacement switches, etc... It took me 3 tries to find the correct belt length!!!! Dayco 17560 worked for me. Other people used 175460. I charged it using my gauges, and estimating 1.8lbs of 134A. two 12 oz cans, and then estimated the rest using a scale. It worked ok. Then I took it to a friends shop, and used machine to evacuate - I realized I was several oz low. Using his $8K machine , we then put in the right amount of 1.8lbs. Did not even pay attention to the gauges. Works even better now. Leave your self enough slack on the ducts that attach to the middle OEM vent. I cut them a bit short, and it was a bitch getting that together!!! Last tip - Order a universal hose kit. Iam a Vintage Air dealer, and I always tell customers to do this. The reason is the hoses where a bit long, and the connectors where at the wrong angle. The A/C hoses are stiff and you really cant rotate a connector into place very easy. Being able to lay them out, mark the direction of the connectors, and have a local shop crimp the hose is worth it. I even replace one of the connectors from 90 degree angle to a 45 degree angle. I also used A/C and heater line clips from Squeeg's Hot Rob Shop. It make the install look great, no Zip ties. If I think of anything else... I'll post it here. -Mark

I have now finished my Vintage Air install. 38 Degrees from center vents! Pictures would be nice...

I also began my Vintage air install...

Have not posted in a while... here is a update to the hood scoop. I ditched the bottom part of the Procomp assembly and ordered a SHAKHRAMP from Falcongt.com. I also had to use a 1 spacer on top of the Sniper, and a 1 inch Summit Carb spacer SUM-1404. For some reason I can't post photos?

This weekend I added some 351 numbers to the hood, from NPD, very nice quality, just a PITA to get centered. Also added the Procomp Hood Scoop PCE106.1007. Iam still using the bottom part of the old air cleaner, the PO hacked it up to fit the Jegs brand distributor. I added a second set of threaded inserts that line up with new Procomp scoop's holes. I still think it's too tall, but it does not bind, so I guess I'll just go with it for now. I have a Holley Sniper with a 1/4 spacer, and planning to run a Hyperspark Distributor. Hopefully the Procomp air clearer assembly will fit.

I had to use a 13 inch filter. The normal 14 inch won't work.

Interesting - the Cobra Jet has the scoop grill printed chrome... I kind of like that detail. I've never seen this. -Mark

Hi Vic, Happy new year back at ya! It does seem like the height of these shakers are all over the place. Mine sits about like yours. The SpeedMaster Cobra Jet Shaker arrived. Speedmaster79.com Part number PCE106.1007 Summit carries it, as well as a few others. All metal, and great quality. It is shorter, 1/2 shorter? Maybe?? From the pictures you posted, maybe I have a 351C shaker? The also PO hacked it up to make the Dizzy fit. I did not want to hack up this new base until I replace that dizzy, so I drilled holes in the old base that matched the new top.

I was able to remove the old switch, it actually fell apart in pieces! While I wait for parts to arrive, I've rigged up a stop light switch I had laying around, and used a band clamp around the steering column. It's actually working great! Maybe I'll just leave it this way? :)

Vic, Did you ever find a solution to lowing your shaker? Iam having the same issue and would like my scoop lower. My engine is a 351C, with RPM performer and Holley sniper. I read that the base for the 429 cobra is 1/2 shorter, I have one inbound. -Mark

Iam battling this issue - any udate on this from @demon69

I need to do this! can you post the link of the bulb... Iam lazy.. thank you!

What about a 1970? I guess it would work, but the key is on the column of the 1970, I guess I could move it to the dash?

This is on my list of things to do - what USB plug did you buy, can you post a link?

Here is the final product.. the top pannels are held on with magnets, so I can easily reconfigure it.