AusTex70

Decided to finally get around to do a little paint correction, the car had scratches, swirls, and blue and red marks around the car. I washed and clay bared the car then decided to try the Mequiar's DA Microfiber two step detailer. (Correction Compound D300 & Finishing Wax D301). I have read good things about it, and it produces low dust residue when removing the compound. The only thing I did not like was how hard the compound was to buff off. Overall, I liked the product, and the results.

Received the plans. They will save me some time, but was it worth the money? I'll make a cardboard console mockup over the weekend, and report back. -MMW

Update: He replied back to me on Youtube, and I was able to purchase a set of plans. I should have them this week, and I'll report back.

PS Mach 1 rocker installed.

Decided to work on the MACH 1 trim. They where not on the car when I bought it. Luckily all the pieces where there, just scratched up. I took some steel wool, and cleaned up the MACH 1 down to the bare metal. Then Masked those letters, scuffed, primed, painted. The paint is Krylon Metallic dark metal #2769, and the Krylon clear coat on top. I think this color works well with the wheels. The Chrome strips where in ok shape, I might replace them, but they will work for now. All the studs had to be repaired, so I drilled them out, and epoxied some bolt onto the trim. As for the clips, I was able to find some at NAPA #665-1917 that worked.

I'll make a parts list and take some more I'll be happy to post more info on my trunk finish out. Don't be afraid of the trunk money... . Most of the time he is on the laptop and can be distracted easily. Here is more info on the overflow bottle - link

He has replied back to me, let see if I can get a template.

My garage was smelling like gas, ALOT! So I decided to investigate and dig into the fuel lines, and gas tank. Poor wiring and the wrong type of hoses, gas seeping from the connections, and the main fuel line routed next to the drive shaft!!! Bought some SS 3/8 PTFE Hose and 6AN fittings, and bulk head connectors from Hot Rod Fuel Hose. I also used these nifty connectors in the engine bay from Hotrod Hippie. I have had fuel smell from tank vents in the past, so I decided to go overkill on the tank vent hose. Using some 5/16 Gates Barricade Injection Fuel hose, overkill, but I had some from another project.) to a Newton TPV6 Pressure release valve, then to a hardline loop and draining out the rear of the car. More info on the GT500 hardline loop here: link The Newton valve is cool, it opens when you have pressure, and closes when things cool off. So no gas tank vent smell in the garage. The PO had purchased a new Tanks Inc system with a in tank pump. The only negative about this tank set up is having all the connections on top, so something needed to be done to protect those connections. The sound of the pump was also noisy. I added some sound deadener to the top of the tank and the entire trunk area. I also started to work on finishing out the trunk with a false floor. With the new floor, sound deadener, and a rubber mat - I can't hear the pump. I have zero smell now, and I think the Sniper is running better.

There is a local guy in the mustang club that has done the Terlingua race a few times. I've been to chili cook-off, but that was decades ago! They do have these stickers on Etsy.

He seems to be on Youtube

Some more progress photos. Tires that came on the car where dry-rotted. Decided to go up a rim size, 15x8 U.S. Mags Rambler U111 Gunmetal with Machined Lip Wheels Rear - P235/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (28.9) Front - P215/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (26.9)

Don't forget to figure in your tire size. Plenty of online calculators to compute this. I have a T5Z behind my 351 Cleveland, with a 9inch 3.00 open diff. My TZ5 is the following: T5Z (MDL purchase)- 2.95, 1.94, 1.34, 1, .63 OD Rear - P235/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (28.9) Front - P215/60R-15 BFGOODRICH RADIAL T/A (26.9) Currently when I shift into 5th, the RPS drop below 2000K, at 75MPH. The Cleveland does not like that, it likes higher RPMs. 4th gear is used the most on the highway. Planning on changing out the 3:00, leaning towards 3:55. I still want a usable 1st gear.

Seems he is in Ft.Worth, I’ll ask the local mustang crowd if they know him.

Sounds good to me!

Have done two of the Modern Drive line conversions. Love the T5Z in my current build, what I don't like is the cable clutch they sell. If I were to do it over, I would go with mustang steve's set up, or full hydraulics. What rear end do you have? Might want to consider that too with the T5Z. I have a 3.0 rear, and it's great on the highway in 5th gear. I think 3:25 - or 3:50 would be perfect with a t-5.

Me too, but along the way, it was swapped out to black.

Next on the list was dealing with the Holley Sniper. One of the biggest issues is idle, it would not idle properly and die at when I was driving and brought the car to a stop. I had read about the Sniper RF / wiring issues, so I address that first. The wiring was a mess, and not done properly. I found wires twisted together, and wrapped in tape, bad crimp connectors, and sloppy wiring. I decided to pull everything out under the hood and rewire. I also did the math on the amps that Holley Sniper pulled, upgraded stereo, and vintage air. I upgraded the alternator with a 1 wire, and two high amp fuses. One for the alternator, the other for the audio equipment in the trunk. Also the main power and grounds to the battery and alternator where not large enough, and where in bad shape. From what I've read on the Holley EFI forum you need to do a few things for the Sniper. Proper grounding, direct +/- to battery, good shielded spark-plug wires. Also make sure wires are not crossing the spark-plug wires. I also the RF cable suppressors on the leads to the Sniper unit, can't hurt. Powermaster Street Alternators 577491 (black color) - Part Number: PWM-577491. Bussmann AMG High-Amp Stud Mount Fuses AMG-175, Part Number: BSS-AMG175 Yarachel 50PCS RFI EMI Noise Suppressor Cable Clip for 3.5mm/ 5mm/ 7mm/ 9mm/ 13mm Diameter Cable

@kblagron - the car has all the pieces, still inventorying all the parts. Car has been repainted, and the floor pans have been patched. For some reason they painted it Mitsubishi Pure white! I do have new floor pans and Seat pedestals to be in stalled. PO had a picture of the Marti Report, not the actual report. Not sure of the full story of how and who he bought it from.

Now that the car is cooling well, we decided to address a leak on the valve cover. The PO had told me that the guy he bought the car from had "Refreshed" the engine. Not sure what he his version of "refreshed" is, but to my surprise the heads are 2V, and not original to the car, but look good, and run well.

I've been following your build. I have family and work in Houston, so Iam there often. Iam a Vintage Air dealer.. A/C is on the list!

Iam in North Austin. As for the "Problem Areas", the entire car is a bit of a basket case. It was obvious that the past owner did not know anything about Mustangs, first thing I did was rework the cooling system. It would not heat up past 160, I found crud stuck in the T-stat, and no restrictor plate and incorrect T-stat for a Cleveland. So, I flushed the block, had the radiator boiled and tested, all new hoses and correct T-stat set up. I also bought the correct fan shroud for the car, installed a 7 blade fan and fan clutch used on the cobra Jet engine. Now that the car is warming up and cooling properly, I can focus on reworking the Holley Sniper and Fuel system. I had a hard time tracking down the proper fan clutch to use with the 7 blade fan I ordered the fan off of NPD. 8600-12 FAN BLADE ASSY, 7 BLADE 8146-5 FAN SHROUD Amazon: Dorman 23733: Water Pump Stud Kit - 5/16-18 x 7/16 and 5/16-24 x 5/8 Overall Length of 1-1/4 Hayden Automotive 2747 Premium Fan Clutch

Here is what I found when I went to purchase the car. ;) I was able to drive it home, and it took two more trips to his house to pick up all the parts. The good news is that all the parts I needed where there. In talking to him, I think he was over his head on the project and just wanted to get out from under it.

Howdy from Texas. I bought this 1970 Mach 1 back in September 2022. I had a 1967 Mustang Convertible about 10 years ago, and always wanted another Mustang. One evening I was casually looking thru Facebook marketplace, this 1970 Mach 1 was for sale. It was priced to move, so I texted the seller. He had already set up buyers to look at the car the next day. I asked what part of town he was in, and it was only 10 minutes from my house. Two hours later, I had purchased the car. Like I said, it was priced to sell, but the photos he sent me did not reflect the current condition of the car, and he forgot to mention a title issue, needed tires, ran poor, steering issues, and a lot of pieces of the car where in boxes. Here is the photo he had posted.

@danno - still have that fan?