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Everything posted by AusTex70
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Update - Went for two long drives yesterday using the Stant 10810 Vented cap, and it seems to be venting properly. I have a updated pop-open cap, that allows for that cap, and one of Doug's MacMillin's modified fill neck on the way.
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@smh00n - I'll check into that TRL valve. Several people I know use the TVP valve due to it closing off after the pressure goes down, and so I don't get any gas smell in the garage. (roll over and fuel pump cut off switch is something I do need to add. ) Where did you plum your vent out let on the rear of car? I followed Kellys lead on my install: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/how-would-you-go-about-venting-the-gas-tank.631078/ I did talk to Tanks Inc Tech support. They said the vent on the tank vent in both directions. They also said no loop in the line. I removed the flip top cap, and placed a OEM vented cap on the car yesterday. I plan to drive the car and see if that makes a difference. Now that the car is dialed in, my drives are longer, maybe a hour long, and Iam starting with a full tank. Prior to this, I was not going far, maybe 20 min drive to a car show, and had no issues. good info here: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/gas-cap-venting.1198225/#replies -Mark
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Question for you, EFI users. My car is a 1970 Mach 1 351C with a Sniper EFI,also using a return gas line. Tanks Inc EFI tank, an intank pump, and a vent line go to the TPV6 valve to mimic the 69, GT500 mod. I also have the flip-up gas cap with the proper dent at 11 o'clock to let air into tank. Just this past weekend, I filled up and went for a drive, using about a quarter tank of gas. Had a loud hissing sound coming from the cap. When I opened it, it "Whoosed", and had to ...pass some gas... Even when I closed it after letting the gas out, it was still hissing, so I just let the cap open for a while. My though is I need a bigger "vent" to let air into the tank due to the EFI. I've been searching the forums all day for a answer... any one have first hand experience with this issue and EFI?
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Took it for a drive Sunday, then dropped it off the alignment shop that @TexasEdused. The shop just sent me this..and want to add shims. Not sure how he accounted for the +3 or what baseline he is using, I'll know more in the morning This kit comes with +3 caster already, and Shawn at SOT recommend the following: Street Specs: Caster: +2.5° to +4.5° Power Steer Camber: 0 to -.5° Toe: 1/8″ in Street Performance Specs Caster: +2.5° to +4.5° Power Steer Camber: -.5° to -1.5° Toe: 1/8″ in
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I installed Street or Track Coil overs, and did the Shelby drop, new tie rods and roller idler arm. Did not take a lot of pictures
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I've used Wesco on several builds. Wonderful customer service. If you do the three point, order the long sash. https://www.wescoperformance.com/long-sash-seat-belt-starburst.html
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My new plate arrived!
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yes..
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Looks like I've been invited to SEMA this year. November 5-8, 2024. Anyone else going? If so, we should connect. -Mark
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Next time your down this way, @TexasEd will meet you for a beer. We both live in N/W Austin. Iam in Real Estate, I can tell you first hand the market has been wacky these last few years! Sometime Austin feels like a small town, who knows.. I might know your brother? Been here almost 35 years.
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That is the town square of Georgetown Texas, about 30 north of Austin. They have a early morning car show once a month. Begins around 7:30am... done at 10am. There are shops, and a dinner in the square. IMO one of the best, show and shine car shows around. almost all classic cars and trucks. lets see if this link will work... facebook.com/100000231775626/videos/1286812216027855/
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Sound clip with cutouts open...
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Some photo's of the muffler install. Quicktime Time Cutouts - QTEC66 with Dynomax 17731 Super Turbo Muffler.
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It's the 3.5 inch hand held screen that came with the sniper. I slapped together a magnetic mount, that way I can remove it and stick it in the glove box. It was not going to be a permeant solution, but's it worked out well, and I have not come up better solution! Being magnetic, I can angle it, and move it around easily. I used a round magnet that sticks to a round disc (from a old cell phone mount) and a Keeper MG hand gun magnet from Amazon.
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PSA - I took a chance on some ebay floor mats from Turkey. They turned out much better than expected, and arrived with in a week. They are actually cut to correct shape, not a universal shape like my ACC mats. (Acc is the one on the right. ) He also said he can do custom shapes, I need one for my trunk.
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Test fitting the matching Dakota Digital controls.
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Now that I've figured out how to post pictures... Here are some photos of my Vintage Air install. I also repainted the lower dash. I used Krylon Industrial Semi-Flat Black K01613A07, Zoro.com had the best price. Zoro is the consumer site of Grainger. The glove box had not been painted, but shows the color match.
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Looks like my smugmug account will also work
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I like seeing pictures again. wow - Pictures!!!!
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front disc issue - stabilizer bracket
AusTex70 replied to AusTex70's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
more info with pictures... https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/1970-oem-front-disc-brake-binding-solved.1224052/?post_id=10963909#post-10963909 -
I have a Sniper and in-tank fuel pump. I have a hidden kill switch that disconnects the ground to the fuel pump really. Just like Smh00n - I forget about it all the time!!! ;)
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front disc issue - stabilizer bracket
AusTex70 replied to AusTex70's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Solved! The bolts that came with the kit are too long, and hit the back of the disc. -
front disc issue - stabilizer bracket
AusTex70 replied to AusTex70's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
install pdf - Item that is in Red.