AusTex70

Update - Went for two long drives yesterday using the Stant 10810 Vented cap, and it seems to be venting properly. I have a updated pop-open cap, that allows for that cap, and one of Doug's MacMillin's modified fill neck on the way.

@smh00n - I'll check into that TRL valve. Several people I know use the TVP valve due to it closing off after the pressure goes down, and so I don't get any gas smell in the garage. (roll over and fuel pump cut off switch is something I do need to add. ) Where did you plum your vent out let on the rear of car? I followed Kellys lead on my install: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/how-would-you-go-about-venting-the-gas-tank.631078/ I did talk to Tanks Inc Tech support. They said the vent on the tank vent in both directions. They also said no loop in the line. I removed the flip top cap, and placed a OEM vented cap on the car yesterday. I plan to drive the car and see if that makes a difference. Now that the car is dialed in, my drives are longer, maybe a hour long, and Iam starting with a full tank. Prior to this, I was not going far, maybe 20 min drive to a car show, and had no issues. good info here: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/gas-cap-venting.1198225/#replies -Mark

Question for you, EFI users. My car is a 1970 Mach 1 351C with a Sniper EFI,also using a return gas line. Tanks Inc EFI tank, an intank pump, and a vent line go to the TPV6 valve to mimic the 69, GT500 mod. I also have the flip-up gas cap with the proper dent at 11 o'clock to let air into tank. Just this past weekend, I filled up and went for a drive, using about a quarter tank of gas. Had a loud hissing sound coming from the cap. When I opened it, it "Whoosed", and had to ...pass some gas... Even when I closed it after letting the gas out, it was still hissing, so I just let the cap open for a while. My though is I need a bigger "vent" to let air into the tank due to the EFI. I've been searching the forums all day for a answer... any one have first hand experience with this issue and EFI?

Took it for a drive Sunday, then dropped it off the alignment shop that @TexasEdused. The shop just sent me this..and want to add shims. Not sure how he accounted for the +3 or what baseline he is using, I'll know more in the morning This kit comes with +3 caster already, and Shawn at SOT recommend the following: Street Specs: Caster: +2.5° to +4.5° Power Steer Camber: 0 to -.5° Toe: 1/8″ in Street Performance Specs Caster: +2.5° to +4.5° Power Steer Camber: -.5° to -1.5° Toe: 1/8″ in

I installed Street or Track Coil overs, and did the Shelby drop, new tie rods and roller idler arm. Did not take a lot of pictures

I've used Wesco on several builds. Wonderful customer service. If you do the three point, order the long sash. https://www.wescoperformance.com/long-sash-seat-belt-starburst.html

My new plate arrived!

yes..

Looks like I've been invited to SEMA this year. November 5-8, 2024. Anyone else going? If so, we should connect. -Mark

Next time your down this way, @TexasEd will meet you for a beer. We both live in N/W Austin. Iam in Real Estate, I can tell you first hand the market has been wacky these last few years! Sometime Austin feels like a small town, who knows.. I might know your brother? Been here almost 35 years.

That is the town square of Georgetown Texas, about 30 north of Austin. They have a early morning car show once a month. Begins around 7:30am... done at 10am. There are shops, and a dinner in the square. IMO one of the best, show and shine car shows around. almost all classic cars and trucks. lets see if this link will work... facebook.com/100000231775626/videos/1286812216027855/

Sound clip with cutouts open...

Some photo's of the muffler install. Quicktime Time Cutouts - QTEC66 with Dynomax 17731 Super Turbo Muffler.

It's the 3.5 inch hand held screen that came with the sniper. I slapped together a magnetic mount, that way I can remove it and stick it in the glove box. It was not going to be a permeant solution, but's it worked out well, and I have not come up better solution! Being magnetic, I can angle it, and move it around easily. I used a round magnet that sticks to a round disc (from a old cell phone mount) and a Keeper MG hand gun magnet from Amazon.

PSA - I took a chance on some ebay floor mats from Turkey. They turned out much better than expected, and arrived with in a week. They are actually cut to correct shape, not a universal shape like my ACC mats. (Acc is the one on the right. ) He also said he can do custom shapes, I need one for my trunk.

Test fitting the matching Dakota Digital controls.

Now that I've figured out how to post pictures... Here are some photos of my Vintage Air install. I also repainted the lower dash. I used Krylon Industrial Semi-Flat Black K01613A07, Zoro.com had the best price. Zoro is the consumer site of Grainger. The glove box had not been painted, but shows the color match.

Looks like my smugmug account will also work

I like seeing pictures again. wow - Pictures!!!!

more info with pictures... https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/1970-oem-front-disc-brake-binding-solved.1224052/?post_id=10963909#post-10963909

I have a Sniper and in-tank fuel pump. I have a hidden kill switch that disconnects the ground to the fuel pump really. Just like Smh00n - I forget about it all the time!!! ;)

Solved! The bolts that came with the kit are too long, and hit the back of the disc.

install pdf - Item that is in Red.