quoriSer

Hey everyone, 
 
So got my car back a few days ago and I noticed for some issues with my c4. When cold, it doesn't want to upshift when in Drive. It does go in reverse and 1-2 are fine when shifting manually, but when I go into drive it over revs, or seems like it goes back to 1st.
 
When the car is all warmed up the car can shift through all 3 gears, the shift points are much wider now as I assume they adjusted the shift points but they are denying they didn't touch anything. When Cold, I check the fluid level and it shows little to no fluid, when warm the fluid is at level. 
 
the thing shifted great before I dropped it off, I spoke with the owner of the shop to look into this.
 
I checked vacuum on the modulator, and I am getting pressure. Any suggestions? could it be incorrect fluid? or stuck relief valve? Its push-in modulator and trans was built by Performance automatic a few years back. 
 
Thanks, 

A little back history. Three to four years ago I saw a local Craigslist ad for a 9 inch carrier with 3.50 ratio, N case Daytona pinion support bearing, traction lok. I drive over to his place 4-5 miles away and right away see he has a 69 Mustang in his garage. We talk shop, we make the deal and I'm gone.
 
Bear with me, it'll make sense. About a year and a half ago I call a guy regarding a 351W block for sale. Call him up and sounds familiar, get directions to his place and damned if it isn't the same guy I bought the 9 inch from.
 
So the other day I'm checking around this site zapping the spammers when I see new member lalojamesliz post that he's from Bakersfield. WTFresno? Bakersfield? Me too. I reply to his thread and ask him to call me. The phone rings this afternoon and my caller ID has a guy's name and Ford Parts included in the name line. WTH? I answer the phone and lalojamesliz introduces himself and says he's from this site. I'm thinking and asking lalo why I have his number in my phone, have we meet before? It was truly a Twilight Zone moment. Right then it hit us both. Yep, same dude. Same guy I bought the 9 inch from. You'd think at some point I'd remember him.
 
Anyway, he's now a member here so chances are I'm remember him. The good part is that he's a good guy. When I first met him he was fair, knowledgeable and easy to deal with buying parts, and I'm pleased he's joined us here.

https://youtu.be/MykNy8e5boM
Shelby 500 transformation

Slowly getting there.

Anybody had any luck with these from CJ's. I fought with one side for an hour plus and could not get it to fit correctly. Ended putting the originals one back in with their cracks and speaker hole cutouts.

https://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/6003835662.html
 
posted today

what did you use to paint your dash ? Everything looking good. Going back a little in the thread, what di you use or where did you get the carpet for the fold down ?

I'm looking for a dizzy with a 8K or 8L date code.

Would it be hard to black out the moldings and bumper on this image? Thanks for taking the time to look guys, new on here!
 
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-oH-YEFuEkbs/U3HotPaNYAI/AAAAAAAABuI/scDqTxkF-1c/s1600/Rare+1970+Ford+Mustang+Boss+302+Calypso+Coral+1.JPG
 
http://1-photos.ebizautos.com/used-1970-ford-mustang-boss302-9423-5096299-5-640.jpg

Has anyone had any luck replacing your front seats to something more comfortable than the original 1969 ones? If so, I'd love some ideas on which used cars to start looking at do do the swap.  Preferably without too much work.
All the best to the Mustang fans out there!!!

Pulled positive off battery while motor was running, engine died. That tells me it's not charging based on how I tested alternators back in the day. Had alternator tested--good, replaced voltage regulator, still dies.
Checked all wires on alt harness for condunuity- all good. Tach Mach, 4 wire alt, 4 wires going to voltage regulator.
What's next?

I just  got the Manual to Power Brake conversion from Mustang Steve. It was the Master Cylinder, Booster and Automatic Pedal plus all the fittings, nice set!
 
Before I go at it, I want to make sure of one thing. On his instructions he said to use a 1/2 Drill when drilling the holes on the fire wall.
The Booster studs are 3/8's. Is he saying to use a 1/2" drill or use a 1/2 bit???

Where does this wire go on the alt?
Black with red stripe or red with black stripe?

Like the title says the passenger & drivers side window are both in need of new weatherstripping. The passenger side window has maybe 1" play on the A pillar end the B pillar doesn't have any slop to it. I have watched the WCCC you tube video on rebedding the glass.
 
After talking with John at Cascade Classics he said I maybe able to just adjust that window to get the correct fit and just replace the belt line rubber on both doors. The divers side operates fine with the exception of needing new belt line rubber on it & the inside door opening mechanism is stiff should just need a good cleaning and lube. Both doors, trunk and hood need new weatherstripping the trunk is original and is hard as a rock. That's pretty straight forward unless someone has some good tips on removing the old hardened rubber.
 
I just can't make up my mind should I just go ahead with rebuilding & rebedding both windows while I'm working on it or let it go till they need repair? I'm probably going to rebuild both doors they're cheap to fix just time consuming.
 
I was told on the WCCC video on rebedding the windows that they cleaned all the adhesive out of the channels and that can cause an alignment problem there are 2 rubber stops on the bottom of the channel that keep the window squared up when you assemble them there was nothing said about those pieces anyone had any experience or advise on rebedding the windows?
 
Bob