ray1970

No Nazi here just your simple metric motorcycle repair guy.

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I have 205 mm on the RH side and 200 mm on the LH side..

Over heating and starter drag where a every day thing for me back in the 70-80s Having a std trans was a god send for me..(Can you say bump start) Going to the beach on a hot summer night always ended in a boil over.. Dont really miss those days....Most of the time...

I have found that getting a radiator cleaned as being mostly just a band-aid treatment.. Most of my life new radiators were not in the budget.. My current one was replaced after BAMBI tried to occupy the same space as my grill. Deer meat for anyone!! I can say the motor has never run cooler..182deg is the hottest I have seen in 3 years.. 24in with the proper shroud...

My way out..

The closer you get to finishing a long time project, the harder it gets to be patient. YOU mean your suppose to finish these things???? This my call for a plan change!!!! The only time your done with it is if your DEAD or you SOLD it...

Not much help here. I have never had an A\F meter on a carburetor but i can tell you that with my FI its a bit all over the place unless your at steady throttle I can only think that with a prehistoric vapor valve it would be harder to get a read. I try to keep in mind that TBI is 30 year old technology in itself.. Do we know what the blow off presser is for your stile inlet needle and float? Not shore even where you would find that info?

If you go with EFI and want use the timing control a R.T.R. Dis.is not going to work.. Thats why I cut the the r.t.r. part out of mine but i did set it up so if need be i could plug it back in on the road.

Im running a MSD ready to run dis. modified into a two wire set up for my EFI... Works just fine....The idea of adj your timing from inside the car is very nice.. And works very nice.. Not shore what problems people are having with there dis.and the EFI but most of what I read(but not all) is the owners lack of understanding with what they are doing..Many dont understand timing or how a dis.works and that is fine...But it can be problematic for them and anybody reading there internet posts.. I rarely see its an issue with the dis.itself... But I could be wrong...

Tinman as I sit hear thinking about timing curve and the fact i never became a rock star plus the fact your car runs poorly over half throttle Did you CK the mechanical ADV in your disturber to see if it was frozen -rusted solid and not working at all?? i know its something simpel but most people dont CK it after a long rest...

if you install aluminum heads, you will also save some money on paint. Sounds like a win+win to me..

Tinman has his very own thread called-- It is time --that will tell you most every thing you need know about his motor and car for the last 40 years in the building forum.

Not wanting to turn this into a dist. re curve thread. You could make up a bench top dist re curve thingy with very little effort Most of the time your just changing the spring rate to what RPM you want it all in by and how fast or slow it gets there. This can be done by anybody that HAS a tack and a good TIMING LIGHT. Having some springs on hand helps a lot too.. This is the way I see it. Me... I have gotten lazy and just push numbers on a key pad..

The best I can remember in my case It was a USED HV pump with a heavy spring that was also shimed a bit. Would show over 100 psi of oil presser at cold idle.(Over kill) I also had a distributor where the the shaft was so far under size were it went into the block it would just tear the gears off it. Glad those days are over....... So my general thinking is the distributor is binding or the oil pump is binding....

Had the same problem many years ago. Got to the point I was carring a spare gear and roll pins and the tools to change them on the road. In the end I changed the oil pump and all was good.. I have heard of people using two roll pins but i dont think that is the answer...

Barnett I could not have put it better. (Mosty due to poor spelling and bad grammar on my part..)

At the risk of being called a butcher we do what we need to do. Melted fuel pump wire from last week.. Bypassed it and moved on.. And still moving..

Photo is a bit small so i cant really see the problem.. IF I was on the side of the road... I would cut both connectors off than solder and srink tube something a little more available on it....The odds are in your life time it would never be an issue.. This WOULD change the originality of the car a bit..

If you had a motor with big miles on it I would say the timing chain jumped.. But i dont think that is the case with you.... I would say ing. is the most likely culprit... Not knowing a lot about your car its hard to say..

(This is your subconscious speaking) The motor is out why not put some of those cool looking aluminum heads on it.. dont have to paint those. Maybe a little more bore and stroke would be ok. Maybe EFI would top this off nicely??? (Your finance directer)You spent how much on a can of paint??

Fuel presser most likely has nothing to do with the blue smoke. 7 lb of fuel presser I would see as very normal.... Remember it idles and revs just fine.

Sandblasting is a bad idea in more ways than one. as barnett has posted degreaser and a little time is your best bet.

Things we dont know Does it smoke only at idle? Does it smoke more on decel? Does it smoke all the time? Are you now or have you ever been______ We know it idles fine. We know it sends out blue eye burning fumes. We believe the PCV has been plunged to eliminate that possibility.. I really have not moved it out of the garage so i dont know.....

Not shore how hot is to hot but it sounds like your running over all hotter than normal temp. for your stile of driving. Yes i know the radiator guy blessed it but you may want to think about a new 24 in. 4 core in your future.....Or any radiator that is not 40+ years old..