Mach1 Driver

Yes I agree

Currently the only way to put inner rockers into a fastback or coupe is to use remanufactured sheet metal parts for a convertible. Yes it would be much easier to add sub frame connectors, but the only test available shows that SFCs do zero for torsional stability. When FORD decided how to strengthen the convertible they used inner rockers. The current method looks like this: see pics There will more posts to show what I propose as an alternative. This is a test to see how visible the drawings are when inserted here. That went well, more pictures to come!!

Sorry Vic, I should be arrested for hijacking. Yes it would be easier to put in SFCs but I've seen a test that shows that they do zero for torsional twist and inner rockers are the way that Ford decided to strengthen the vert when they took the roof off, so I'll stick with that. Latoracing from your picture it looks like the rocker only extends back about 6-8" more from where you welded. I like the fillet you did and wondered why Street or Track didn't do that also. Ridge you are always a wealth of information. Do you think that could be done if the floor was left in- my floor is still in excellent condition. I plan on custom sheet metal for the inner rockers that won't require me to cut the floor from the outside rockers. I should probably start a post on this and get all of your expertise.

Thanks for your picture. Street or Track did an article on adding inner vert rockers to a 65-68 fastback. They shortened them and added flanges to tie them to the outside of the torque boxes. What do you think of this approach? Does the rocker "end" in your car where I have drawn the line in the attachment rocker.doc? rocker.doc

Vic, If you get a chance could you take a pic of where the inner convertible rockers go into the rear torque boxes- a view from inside the passenger compartment. I'm trying to envision what this looks like because I want to add vert inner rockers to my fastback. I've seen it done but they didn't go into the rear torque boxes- only attached to the outside, which seems kinda odd. Don't bother if it isn't easy to snap a picture. Thanks.

Yeah, I intend to do line lock just for the halibut. You press hard on the brakes, and turn on line lock. This prevents the front pressure from bleeding off, then release the brakes and the rears are free to spin and it's burnout time.

Bob, this is drawn in CAD. Did I get the pumpkin end correct? It matches your drawing but your description makes it unclear. Each of the three sections is higher at the front and lower at the rear. RPMs angles.pdf

I did a little research on tires. The widest you can put on the front without hitting slightly under some conditions is 235/60-15 (per Barnett468) In that size we are limited to manufacturers. Cooper makes theirs and 7 other brands: Avalon, Cooper, Dean, Mastercraft, Mickey Thompson, Roadmaster, Sears Guardsman, and Starfire. Three come in that size: Cooper, Mickey Thompson, and Starfire Coker makes vintage style tires in 5 brands: Michelin, Firestone, BF Goodrich, Uniroyal, and M&H. Two come in that size: BF Goodrich, and M&H. Other manufactures of this size are: Milestar (Taiwan), Vitour (China), Carlisle (Pennsylvania), Pirelli (Italy), Centennial (China) So it seems to boil down to three well known companies: Cooper, Cooker, and Pirelli. The Pirelli's don't come in raised white letters and are around $277 each. So that leaves Cooper or Coker. The Coopers rate 2 out of 5 and the Coker BF Goodrich 1.5 out of 5. The Coopers are cheaper. Pick your poison. If there are others please share.

Oh you should'a gotten bigger ones in front- it doesn't look like they could'a hit...anything ;)

People tend to have strong beliefs about their tires. Consumer Affairs rates them 1.5 out of 5: https://www.consumeraffairs.com/tires/goodrich.html Cooper isn't that much better with 2 out of 5: https://www.consumeraffairs.com/tires/cooper.html but I don't think this is specific to a particular tire, just the brand

You will get lots of opinions on this. The "LOOK" would be 15" magnums with BFG Radial T/As. I believe BFG still makes 14s but since Michelin bought them I hear complaints of steel belts moving then tires coming apart and damaging fenders at very low miles. Cooper Cobras aren't nearly as popular but a safer bet these days. Now that I've said that I better duck the incoming.

Hey its not stolen is it? Just kiddin', enjoy!

For the thermal flasher to work, it would need to have a load and considering the wattage required (they are current sensitive) that would get messy fast, and if this is in parallel with the lights it wouldn't be in sync (noise wise) with the other flasher. Having it in parallel would also add amperage and you don't want that. Having the two flashers in series would give a chopped-up flash rate, so I can't envision how that would work well. Instead of messing around with all that, I think I would go back to the original flasher, or drive around like us old people with the flasher on because we can't hear it 8)

You can add a noise maker but these are likely to be 80 db or greater and probably too loud. Most of those can't be turned down adequately with resistors, but you may try that and damp the piezo with a dab of silicone. It'll take some experimentation.

yep, that'll work too

Interesting, I did a search on Digikey earlier today and didn't find anything available- all were obsolete. Guess I'll have to tweak those search parameters differently next time. The only good thing about a single switch is just that- its a single switch, and nothing else is needed.

If you are referring to me, then YES- its in the above attached pdf called "LUMBAR CIRCUIT". No offense, most people have a difficult time with electrical stuff. Can you open it and identify the DPDT switch? Its the six dots and two levers just to the right of B+. Maybe I should have drawn a border around the switch. Does this help- see attached lumbar2.pdf

Nice write-up, now I'm going to have to do it dang nab it! There are various ways to deal with this. The attached PDF will show you two. Personally I would go with the top one. It uses a single switch like this: https://www.zoro.com/honeywell-toggle-switch-dpdt-10a-277v-screw-12ts15-7/i/G4674092/feature-product?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiO7msZjA3wIVjqOzCh28eAfMEAQYASABEgICWfD_BwE. The lower one uses a diode like you suggested, but it only drives the valve with forward current. You wouldn't want to make it 5A because that would be a honking big diode, so you would need to put an ammeter on the valve and see how much current it uses- when the alternator is charging (that raises the voltage and current goes up with it). LUMBAR CIRCUIT.pdf

thanks Buckeye- anything new with your Princess?

like this? https://www.googleadservices.com/pagead/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwjnoYHDi7zfAhVWWYYKHal_B5EYABADGgJ2dQ&ohost=www.google.com&cid=CAASE-RoVqEISZxMORfXcprNiJf4qkU&sig=AOD64_0QfeyQ0KicQpPRYLYkELeHewpqXg&ctype=46&q=&ved=0ahUKEwjpiPzCi7zfAhVRhOAKHTITA-wQ9aACCDc&adurl= So on a edge where it might take a hit you use this stuff and then bondo beyond that to level it out

Thanks, now that's 6 different types all made by Evercoat, but this particular one isn't called "Rage", and it sounds like it needs Viagra.

Which Rage? I've seen 5: ultra body filler gold premium gold lightweight extreme high performance premium lightweight fiberglass rage bodyfiller decisions, decisions

Thanks, that's a good video. I hadn't considered solder.

Thanks guys, as usual I'm over thinking it .

I've measured a difference of 0.144" in the surfaces of the extensions and quarter panels. The extensions are that much lower in areas, and this is the way it came from the factory. I'm assuming that bondo and the like would be too brittle and likely crack and chip. I'm curious how this is done to give it a durable finish. I'd try lead but I'm not sure the pot metal could withstand the heat needed to apply it. What do you guys use to fill this and get the surfaces even?