Ridge Runner

OOH! $10,000 at least HAHA. $20 plus shipping ? I may need to buy another set of nut drivers HAHA.

I have three .I used an old nut driver set i had here and never use ...but you know i will need it now HAHA. If you start at the ends and work towards the turn ,the trim just falls off .I would still use some masking tape on the top just to keep from scratching the molding ,although i did polish the edges .They sort of look like a razor .

I thought it was being handled by RPM Industries ?? Well ,it turns out the 69-70 is a different molding from the 65-68 .I made a new one this morning .The 69 -70 is wider at the bottom lip so i had to make the new one with a wider at the hook . It pops the molding off easier than the 65-68 one does .Didn't leave a mark on the molding .

I tried it on my 67 Fast back and the molding popped off with out a mark ,then i tried it on my 78 Ford pick up ,it has the same type molding but it is made of aluminum .It came off with out a mark .I just may have to make a few .

Now is the starter staying ingauged or does it just keep the motor running?the alternator may be feeding back if the motor keeps running

The starter solonoid is sticking inside ,the after markets will do this .If you can find an older original that works it will solve the problem .The new ones fuse the contacts ,probably because of cheep materials they used .

First of all .just let me say ...PATTEN PENDING ...HAHA! I had some 1 1/2 16 gauge made a few bends and found an old screw driver and cut the end off. I welded the piece to the screw driver and tried it ,it needed a 45 * bend in the screw driver to clear the door and the quarter .This is a 64 1/2 ,a 69 will be easier .It works perfect but i think i will glue some vinyl inside to help keep dents away ..Took 25 minutes to make . My molding was all bent up ,but i didn't make any more dents .Who knows ,It may even open a beer !

I see a new tool that needs to be built

sometimes you need two openers at the same time to spread the load a little .

You need a good heavy bottle opener , a cheap flimsy one will just bend the little tab .Start at the very end ,not the middle and go a bout 1 1/2 inch at a time and do not try to lift it all at once . and wrap the opener in masking tape as stated to keep from scratching the stailess.

What do i win ?

It is possible the shaker is causing the bow if it is sitting to high .

Exactly ...but be careful you can push it to far and kink it ,use a rubber sanding block to help spread the load and help keep from denting the top . I would oil the hinges well

For headers ,i use high heat cast iron stove paint .Paint it and allow to dry .start it up for a minute ,just enough to heat the paint then shut it off and let it cool .Do this two or three times and it will bake the paint on .It turns a charcoal grey but it will stay for a long time with out rusting .I saw some high heat cast iron paint not long ago ,i think it was Auto Zone, i would like to try for cast iron manifolds.I am sure it probably would go through the same baking process .

It looks like i have two driver sides ,i can't figure out what i would have done with the passenger sides . One is a DOAE and the other is a D3AE. it looks like one is for an automatic and one is for a 4 speed .I will keep looking for the pass.sides . I have a ton of 289 -302 manifolds .

I should have at least one set of 2 V ,i will look .

I actually make parts for several companies ,some for Stang-aholics ,some for Precision off road racing ,some for 91 Octane classic restorations and a few well known i can't mention .I like branda for their grills ,hood peak moldings ,Bumpers ,bumper brackets and several other Shelby pieces .

2V or 4V ? 4v manifolds are much harder to come by

Yep !

Support it at the torque boxes and the end of the rear frame rails to keep the rails from sagging when you remove the quarters using jack stands .The front really should be supported at the front of the frame rails also just to help keep everything level .Level the car across the rear frame rails and through the doors on the rockers and the front radiator cross brace before you remove the quarters .I usually use three levels at the same time and i also have a laser level when i can use it .

I would do the freeze plugs while you have it out if it doesn't have brass plugs in it now .Drop the oil pan and do a rear main seal and the timing cover seal ,even if they seem good the start up with them dry from sitting will probably burn them on start up .Fresh oil and filter also

NPD for me ,i would order right over the phone and they would hang in there no mater how large my orders were ,and some of them were very large .Built several cars through them ,and they knew who i was when i called . For my 69 shelby parts i still use Branda .I usually order by email and Karl is always a big help .

Every 69 cougar i have had had the wrap around towers . I for got to mention ..my friends 69 convert was a 6 cylinder .

The originals were brass ,usually they had the wrong screw screwed in and they twisted out .

The scoop i have is missing a couple of the inserts also . You may have to make them from a nut sert ,you can get them at Home depot but you may need to cut them for length and epoxy them in .