1969_Mach1

That looks like a newer version of a book I have. There's some good information in there for Holley Carbs.

I rebuilt the rear axle myself. I installed the NOS Ford traction lock, Motive Gear 3.89 ring and pinion and Moser Engineering 31 spline axles. I've done a few ring and pinion setups plus the Motive Gear set had good instruction. I got lucky, at sometime a previous owner installed a Ford Nodular Iron center section with a Daytona pinion housing.

I rebuilt the rear axle myself. I installed the NOS Ford traction lock, Motive Gear 3.89 ring and pinion and Moser Engineering 31 spline axles. I've done a few ring and pinion setups plus the Motive Gear set had good instruction. I got lucky, at sometime a previous owner installed a Ford Nodular Iron center section with a Daytona pinion housing.

I have the Eastwood paint. I am not happy with it. It comes off easily with any chemical. Smells like its just a lacquer paint. And I have tried calling Holley for a price and cannot get through on the phone. I found one source. The price is good, but they glass bead the carb parts fist. I guess that's their cleaning method. I've seen some pictures of their finished work. The color is pretty close to correct but it has a dull (flat) finish. I've never been a fan or glass beading carb parts and from what I have read it causes the dull recolored finish.

I have the Eastwood paint. I am not happy with it. It comes off easily with any chemical. Smells like its just a lacquer paint. And I have tried calling Holley for a price and cannot get through on the phone. I found one source. The price is good, but they glass bead the carb parts fist. I guess that's their cleaning method. I've seen some pictures of their finished work. The color is pretty close to correct but it has a dull (flat) finish. I've never been a fan or glass beading carb parts and from what I have read it causes the dull recolored finish.

juit, If your still having issues with your Holley carb running too rich try getting one of the many books on tuning and modifying Holley carbs. You'll find they are simple to tune, adjust, and common errors to avoid when adjusting them. There is nothing magical about them.

juit, If your still having issues with your Holley carb running too rich try getting one of the many books on tuning and modifying Holley carbs. You'll find they are simple to tune, adjust, and common errors to avoid when adjusting them. There is nothing magical about them.

Thanks. Good to know. I have wondered because I've seen cam manufacturers offer packages with small base circle cams and retrofit tie bar hydraulic roller lifters.

I have a 1995 F150 with a 5.8L and E4OD trans. It is 2 wheel drive and the trans is still so long I wouldn't think it will fit. That motor should be fuel injected. In 1995 Ford started using "Mass Air Fuel Injection" but in 1991 it was still the older "Speed Density" type of fuel injection. From what I know, speed density fuel injection systems do not tolerate well, if at all, engine modifications. Also, keep in mind, the 1991 351W block is not hydraulic roller cam compatible. Simply meaning the lifter bosses in the block were not made to accept OEM hydraulic roller lifters in conjunction with a standard base circle hydraulic roller cam.

I also run the retrofit link bar hydraulic roller lifers with a standard base circle Ford racing X303 cam. They are in a 1969 351W block and work fine. I am not certain if retrofit link bar hydraulic roller lifters will work with a small base circle cam.

I re-glued mine about 10 years. I couldn't afford to convert to bolt in class. Anyway, since the old glue was completely removed I placed a couple pieces of thin rubber between the glass and channel. These were about 1 inch wide strips. These rubber strips 1) centered the glass in the channel, 2) held it snug in the channel, and 3) prevented any metal to glass contact. I then filled the channel with adhesive leaving the rubber strips in. I don't remember what type of adhesive it was. I got it from a body and paint store. It was messy like the urethane for installing front windshields, but not certain if that is what it was.

Does anybody know of a source (other than Holley) that recolors Holley Carbs in their Dichromate Finish? I have a main body that needs recoloring.

If it were mine, I would rebuild or replace the hydraulic components in the brake system, wheel cylinders, calipers, master cylinder (replace with new only), and replace all the rubber brake hoses. I would also inspect the steel lines and all mechanical parts in the brake system and replace any worn or broken items. After sitting that long, I wouldn't feel safe simply fixing only what is currently wrong with the brakes.

I am running an NOS Ford 31 spline 4 pinion traction lock. I am happy with it. I looked into using Detroit Locker before going with this traction lock. I did some research and even though the new Detroit Lockers are supposed to be less harsh, regardless of the article or forum the general consensus was on small lighter weight cars, Detroit Lockers make it more difficult to turn the vehicle. The rear wheels tend to keep pushing the vehicle straight as you go through a turn. You have to learn to work around that by not accelerating in a turn. Do some research on your own before deciding what to do. You may find different information.

I still think you mechanic connected the vacuum advance correctly by attaching it to ported vacuum.

I agree with barnett468. Connecting to manifold is the last option. Connecting the vacuum advance to ported vacuum like your mechanic did is correct for your situation. The base timing of 10 to 12 degrees BTDC at idle is a good starting point, and will probably be correct, as barnett468 also mentioned. Be certain there is no vacuum at the vacuum advance on the distributor when setting or checking the base timing at idle. If a hot running engine is an issue after these are correct, you need to look at other items, dirty partially plugged radiator, correct fan setup, etc.

I was going to suggest wearing gloves but thought maybe you had already tried. Hardware stores usually have an insulated glove that is thinner and less cumbersome than welders gloves. It won't take much. The uncoated headers are certainly not helping. Like another member suggested, a simple house fan in front of the car to move some air across the engine compartment will make a big difference.

Prayers1, I have no input for the wide band O2 sensor, never used one. But, how hot is this motor getting that you cannot hold a screwdriver long enough to make adjustments?

You are correct, Max Power. I didn't even consider that aspect. I can see where the increased leverage from a manual brake pedal would cause brakes to be too touchy on a power brake system. Also, though its been a while since I compared the two pedals, I think based on geometry, the pedal pad on a manual brake pedal will travel further than the pedal pad on a power brake pedal to obtain the same amount of rod travel.

Did you do a power brake conversion? I have seen a conversion where somebody tried to reuse the brake pedal for manual brakes with power brakes. It simply didn't work correctly, a lot of pedal travel. Is it possible the wrong brake pedal is installed?

If the threads on the stud actually stripped, I agree, poor quality parts. It sounds from how they tightened when installing like the threads on the studs were not cut or formed correctly. Go with MOOG or Raybestos (formerly Spicer) and not any of the lower grade products they offer.

I can understand that. I've had my 1969 Mach 1 for 19 years now. I still love working on it and don't see a time when I would sell it.

This post is the first time I've heard of these transformations. I wished I had that skill and talent. The finished fastbacks look flawless. I really didn't know there was that much demand for fastbacks. On a side note, I have wondered (not trying to be negative) how the cost for this transformation compares to the value of the finished transformed fastback? Since, I'm guessing the vin still indicates the finished transformed fastback is a coupe, what affect does that have on its value?

A long time ago a friend of mine had problems removing stuck lifters on a SBC motor while doing a cam swap in the car. What he did was get a piece of cardboard (or box from new camshaft) a least the length of the cam and form it into a U-shape trough that would fit into the cam bearings in the block. He slid the cardboard in and pushed the lifters down from the top. The lifters fell into the cardboard trough. Then gently pulled out the cardboard trough with lifers in it. You may not want to do all the lifers at one time to be a little more care full. This is usually a simple solution to stuck lifter removal problems.