barnett468

71 - 73 mustang pancake booster.

Whoever wrote that was likely smokin somethin or has a serious case of the placebo affect. In general, indexing plugs is a complete waste of time for any street based engine. Indexing plugs has more affect on engines running alcohol than engines running gasoline. There is absolutely no one single position of a plugs electrode that is the optimum for all engines because combustion chambers differ in design, and the shape of the piston dome can have an affect as well. The single easiest way to "attempt" to determine the optimum position of a plugs electrode in any engine is to run it on a dyno and test several different plug positions, however, on street engines, if there is any gain in hp, it will typically be statistically smaller than the error margin of the dyno itself, which would then render the results inconclusive. Another method is to use transducers that will detect a misfire, then run the engine with the plugs in various positions. The best method is to run the engine on a dyno while using tranducers. Also, around 99.999% of the people would get significantly more hp by simply properly tuning their engine such as jetting and setting the timing curve for optimum performance than they would by indexing their plugs to the optimum position. .

Ok, here is some very good info on thick power steering fluids from the oil geeks at bobistheoilguy forum. They post several oils that are thicker than atf. The valvoline max life and lucas ones are most likely available at most auto parts stores. Wally world may have the valvoline one as well. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3475385/1

If your hoses and exhaust are stock, then that is not the problem. The fluid will get hot anyway from various factors, but it certainly sounds like a thicker oil would help in your case.

Glad it wasn't me that was confused, and between me, you, and 1969 mach 1, we figured out the mystery behind your taller than stock weiand intake, so one mystery solved. If you are curious, I can tell you how to easily determine reasonably closely how much your heads were milled, because I also ran the cylinder head rebuilding department for a local high end shop for a while and rebuilt countless Ford and Chevy heads as well as BMW, Porsche and Mercedes heads etc, and determining how much stock heads have been milled is obviously something that most people that have less experience in this area can't do, unless they happen to find the info by doing an internet search or something. As far as the top of the ports on your chinese heads being .200" higher than the ports on the stock heads are, this is absolutely no indication that your stock heads were milled at all, thereby lowering the ports, which again, an experienced person would know. The ports in your chinese heads should be significantly lager than the ports in your stock heads anyway, and they most likely did in fact, make the top of the ports higher than a stock windsor head, so there is no "smoking gun" evidence there either that suggests the stock heads were milled at all, although my guess is that they have been. In addition to this, if they had been milled a lot and the intake had been milled a lot to match them, as one person here suggested several times now, you likely never could have even bolted the intake up unless the bolt holes in the intake were enlarged, because when heads or blocks are milled, it moves the intake bolt hole in the heads inward, and I have in fact run into this exact problem a few times. Also, if the intake bolt holes in your chinese heads are in the correct location, and the bolt holes in the intake lined up well with them and those bolt holes were not enlarged, it strongly suggests that your intake was milled very little, if any at all. I may also have a stock 351 intake in my 54' trailer of Mustang parts that I can measure then give you a dimension of that you can compare to your eddy intake to determine if it has been milled, and if so, approximately how much it has been milled. Your block may have been milled as well which hasn't been mentioned, but even if both the block and the heads were milled, the combined amount would still be far less than 200".

Ok, since it is not hard to shut, the door rubber "should" not be causing a problem, which just leaves adjusting the panes and as a very last resort, trying to twist the door.

Here's 2 good sources for originals. http://www.mustang-village.com/ Mustang Salvage Phone: (714) 997-2000

That explains why I thought your weiand was likely "taller" than a stock manifold based upon all the info you posted. It was really a matter of simple deduction along with around 45 years of experience doing his stuff for a living.

Not to worry, you did a great job, and nothing that you in particular wrote caused any issues whatsoever.

No harmful effects from using power steering fluid. The type f is around 6.5w and I think the power steering fluid we used was around 7.5 - 8w. I will look into it for you when I get a chance.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-Brakes-DP21158-EBC-Greenstuff-2000-Series-Sport-Brake-Pads-/323889080480?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c10#viTabs_0 HAWK also makes several types. Below is their street pad. http://hawkbrakesdirect.com/c-81-performance-brake-pads.aspx If your rotors are not new or freshly turned, they should be turned before installing these but if you use them on old unturned rotors, you should at least sand them with around 180 and water to try and remove the old brake pad material that may be imbedded in the rotors. You also should follow the bed in instructions to get the optimal performance. The hawk hps pads will make less dust than the ebc green pads.

I for one don't know of anyway to adjust low speed pump pressure. There is a pressure relief/bypass valve that controls maximum pressure just like an engine oil pump. The low speed pressure can be increased slightly on an oil pump by machining the housing to reduce the clearance between the end of the gears and the housing and bottom plate if the clearance is excessive but this will only increase pressure at idle by a few lbs at best since the pressure in a ps pump are so much higher, a little wear or excess clearance will change the pressure by a much greater amount.

I never stated, or even remotely suggested his stock heads were milled .200", and to the contrary, I clearly stated TWICE that heads can NOT be milled .200", and it was in fact YOU that stated his original heads were likely milled, as can clearly be seen in your quote below. "More likely the the original heads had been machined sometime in the past and the Edelbrock was milled to match the original heads."

Is the door slightly hard to close from the new door rubber? It looks like you could move both the lower front edge of the fender and the lower part of the quarter panel in maybe 1/16", but this obviously still wont fix tthe back completely, but the top of the door and fender may be in just a hair too far as well. I can't tell by the photo but in theory, there should be at least 3/16" gap between the top edge of the door and the pillar post, but if you already have at least 1/8" gap between the fender and the cowl panel, it is just about as far out from the body as it should be.

We have found it to be either the pump or the control valve on different cars. We tested a rebuilt pump that had a shudder and found the pressure to be LOWER than an original pump with 100k miles on it. After we installed a pump that produced more pressure at low speed, the shudder went away. In the case where the shudder is caused by low pump pressure at low speed, a smaller pulley can help, but it's not something to do on a non stock, high revving engine, and is of course a band aid instead of a proper fix. We had so many faulty "rebuilt" control valves that we had one of the mechanics that knew how to rebuild them, redo them and never had a problem with a control valve after that. I think one of the guys on another mustang forum mentioned what the cause of low pressure in some rebuilt pumps was but I forgot exactly what it is. We also found that slightly thicker power steering fluid would help, but unfortunately I can't remember exactly which one it was at the moment.

there are many brake pad options. most of the auto parts store pads are crap.

That's a good and interesting observation and may be part of the puzzle. Of course it is possible that the edelbrock was milled a little, but there is a huge difference between how the two manifolds fit and there shouldn't be if both intakes were designed to fit the same heads even if the eddy was milled, because as I mentioned, heads can't be milled .200". That's almost 1/4" which is massive.

yup, this is a very, very, common problem with rebuilt or new aftermarket parts and can be a nightmare to fix and is usually not caused by air in the lines. What is a "lars" unit?

You can not mill heads .200" and I have seen aftermarket manifolds that were not machined exactly the same as a stock one.

don't twist anything before you send a photo of the front fender to rocker and front fender to door alignment. your door did not twist out of shape all by itself while it was laying around off the car. A photo of the top of the fender where it meets the cowl panel may also be useful. Is the front fender original with no repairs? Did you install aftermarket door rubbers? Is the door a little hard to latch when you close it now?

1. the 2 manifolds are not machined the same. 2. he says the edelbrock fit the stock heads fine. 3. he said the "rails" meaning possibly the top of the ports as well were .200" taller on the chinese heads than on the stock heads. 4. he said the weiand covers the ports.

Try rotating it just 1/8th of a turn unless your rotor lines up just like your drawing, in which case, it is already corect.

You want your rotor (the red arrow) to be be exactly where it is in your drawing in relation to the cap, because the rotor rotates counter clockwise and the spark actually jumps a small gap from the leading corner on the rotor contact to the closest corner on the distributor. If the red arrow was lined up dead center with the 1 on the cap, it would have way too much advance. After it is installed, you can connect number 1 plug wire only and check the timing with the ignition key on while you jump the large front post on the starter solenoid to the small post right next to it with a screwdriver or similar. If the engine is completely stock, 8 degrees of advance is a good place to start, if it has a performance cam 10 degrees is a good place to start.

If you are seriously considering having this shop do anything on your car, I strongly suggest they give you a separate price for every single item AND the exact brand and part number for each pat and the exact labor costs. The labor could be bulked together where several items in the same area are being changed at the same time like the front suspension. Then post that info and we can tell you for certain if you are getting hosed or not, but from what it looks like, you may very well be.

What is the name of this shop?