solidJ

barnett468: "We also found that slightly thicker power steering fluid would help". This seems like something to try before replacing power cylinders, pump, or valve. I'm using Type F now, any suggestions for a thicker fluid? Any harmful/negative effects?

larescorp.com Lares sells new and reman steering components, in MN.

Follow-up--I swapped out the new Lares control valve with an identical replacement from Lares. The shudders continued, though not as bad as before. Lares tech support said the problem is 99% air in the lines and explained proper bleeding technique: coil disconnected, wheels off the ground, turn wheels left and right while cranking. This was done by my mechanic with no change in the shudders. Has anyone else experienced this?

1969 coupe 6cyl, 200ci. After I replaced the power steering control valve with a new Lares, the car shudders when turning the wheels left or right from standstill. A few weeks later, the pump started to growl and being 12 years old, I also replaced it with a new Lares. The shudders continued as before. Once I am moving, there is no problem and the steering is fine. Any thoughts?

"ing adv froze open". Could someone please explain this?

Here's the link. Any comments would be helpful. http://www.championcarburetor.com/6369-replacement-carburetor-for-autolite-1100-1v-144-170-200brfont-colordc143cbbrand-newbrdesigned-for-modern-fuelbfont-p-10667.html

I'd like to hear from anyone who replaced their Autolite 1100/Holley 1940 with the newly designed Champion carb.

1969 Mustang coupe, 6cyl-200, automatic, no air, Pertronix ignition, high performance wires and coil. Yesterday it stalled at a red light after driving 2 blocks. I placed floor shifter to neutral and it started right up, then engine started racing at very high speed. Strangely enough, when I shifted into Drive, the car went slowly so that I could pull off into a parking lot. I shut off the ignition, and the high speed engine revving continued! I checked the accelerator cable and it wasn't stuck. Car continued to rev higher than before. I removed the air cleaner and cupped my hand tightly over the carb throat, with no effect whatsover. This all took place, about 5 minutes, with the ignition key off. I returned to the car and turned the key to "on" and the revving stopped and all was normal. I drove about 20 miles in-town driving, and later 20 miles back home with no further problems. Of course my mechanic is stumped. Today I drove a few miles with no further problems. Any ideas of the problem?

Thanks for your help. I've been in touch with Scotty and will send him a photo of the part if my JB Weld fails.

Anyone know where I can get an exhaust manifold heat shield for a '69 Mustang, 200 engine.

Squirt a small amount of Gorilla glue (it expands) on the inside and let it set for about 12 hours.

Thanks--already ordered it, with free shipping.

I cleaned out the dried out crumbling rubber in the 1/2 inch wide channel along the (inside) outer edge of the air cleaner lid for my '69 coupe. Any ideas on how to replace it?

Remove the metal strip (2 screws) on the inside top of the door. It's called the garnish rail. I glued a 1" strip of black carpet across the top where it comes in contact with the window glass. The window rolls up a little tougher, but it removed all the slop and rattles.

I've gone through a hot Phoenix summer and report no "melting" or bad smells from the Henry #107 asphalt emulsion I "painted" on the floors of my 69 coupe last spring.