barnett468

you might also want to sit in the car and rev it to around 2000 rpm for 10 seconds then around 2500 for 10 seconds . . if it vibrates, it is your engine or torque converter etc . . if you have urethane engine mounts, any vibrations will be magnified. you can also put the rear on jack stands and block the wheels then spin it to around 60 mph and see how it vibrates then apply brakes very slowly, then remove the wheels, install all the lug nuts on the brake drums to secure and keep them in balance then do the same thing . . if it vibrates less, it is your wheels.

some cars with conventional drivreshafts do have a type of cv but these are typically on cars or trucks with extreme driviline angles but in general they do not use things that are not necessary . . cv joints are expensive and can't handle as much power as a srd u joint . . the cars do not vibrate from the factory so they do not need cv joints . . changing things from stock like lowering the car or installing 5 speed trannies etc, changes the driviline angles and voids the warranty, lol. of you do not want it to vibrate, you can put it back to stock.

. it sounds like you did not watch the driveshaft velocity videos i posted . . these will likely show you exactly what your problem is. i basically posated all the pertinent info there is in the world about driveshat and pinion and trans angles . . i don't know anything new to tell you . . if you can;t do it like the drawing or like buenings set up you will probably always have some vibration unless you install a cv joint on at least one end . . call a driveline place to ask about this. .

mike stang . . did you watch all the videos i posted for you? thIs is exactly what you want when you are cruising down the road . . at a stop the pinion nose will be slightly lower because there is no load on it . . this is why you set the pinion slightly down from the trans . .. this is 100% correct and the best case scenario . . this being said, there are occasions where you need to run it just the opposite like buening is which is not ideal and would never ever happen in a drag race car alyhough there are other types of race cars that use his set up. . .

it will definitely get lower the hotter your carb is especially with the alcohol in the gas because it evaps/boils at a lower temp temp than gas. you may need a phenolic carb spacer and if you live in an area that does not get to freezing then you might want to block off the heat cross overs in the bintake also if you have them.

so you lowered or raised the pinion? if the joints are discolored they are junk but those will go well beyond 4 degrees of angle before they bind so something is odd. you are probably fixing one angle on the driveline that reduces vibration but making another angle worse whivh makes the vibration worse so you may just be robbing peter to pay paul now but only more testing will tell/ you can also run a constant velocity joint if you want and that will eliminate the vibration if your pinion and trans angle are close.

ok your shaft is basically in line with the trans. yoiur driveshaft runs down 3 degrees from the trans. the trans and pinion angle and trans are the same angle. this is kinda impossibles. yes i think simply trying shims is the easiest at this point. as i mentioned, the ideal in a static position is pinion angle around 2 degrees lower than the trans so it is as close to the same as possible in cruise mode and the shaft slightly down from the trans and slightly up from the pinion or vise versa on the shaft angle but the same on the pinion, kinda sorta.

you did not post enough info to offer a suggestion. the general info you need is in my post. your trans is the same angle as your engine . . your engine is 3 degrees down so your trans is 3 degrees down. your pinion is 3 degrees up so it is the same as the trans which is not the best scenario unless yoir pinion does not rise during cruise mode.. . this info is in my post.

. what a coincidence, i just finished writing this around 1 hour ago for some other people. we need the following: trans angle pinion angle shaft angle up or down from trans shaft angle up or down from pinion did it just start? if so what did you change? your shaft or pinion yoke might be bent or the shaft is out of balance. The optimal angle for any driveshaft to run at is 1/2 degree in opposing directions from the trans and pinion . . this is where many vibrational and frictional problems are non-existent. In order to minimize power loss and vibration in an offset configuration [trans and pinion not in direct line], the pinion centerline and the transmission centerline need to be as parallel as possible under steady throttle/cruise condition. In general, for most typical street applications, the pinion angle should be around 2 degrees lower [nose down] than the trans with the car in a static position and full tank of gas . . under steady throttle/cruise, the pinion nose will rise slightly and continue to stay this slightly elevated position [hopefully becoming close to parallel with the trans angle] until the car decelerates at which point the load will be removed from the suspension.th The angle of the driveshaft should be around 4 degrees down from the trans and up from the pinion. The angle of the driveshaft will decrease as the suspension compresses. At steady throttle, there will be some load/torque on the suspension which will cause the nose of the pinion to rise [the pinion rises less on a 4 link trailing arm suspension than it does on a leaf spring one] . . this will also decrease the angle of the shaft as well as change the centerline angle of the pinion to the trans . . the pinion nose can rise enough to cause the driveshaft to go beyond horizontal to the pinion and trans as seen in the video below of a stock ford lightening truck . . this is not ideal but in a stock, non performance street vehicle it is sometimes accepted as a compromise to keep the suspension/ride “softâ€, and/or reduce production costs. If the centerlines of the trans and pinion are out of parallel, the u-joints travel at uneven operating velocities [cycle from one speed to another every revolution] causing the drive shaft to do the same . . a driveshaft with incorrectly phased yokes will also do the same . . the farther out of parallel the trans and pinion are, the more uneven the shaft and u joints operating velocity will be . . this can be seen in the example videos below . . the faster a vibrating driveshaft turns, the worse the vibration will be. This vibration is hard to distinguish from a bent or unbalanced driveshaft, bent pinion yoke or bad u joints, therefore, if you think you have a driveline vibration, it is best to have theses things checked before making any driveline angle changes. Another problem occurs when a t5 and t5 trans mount will lower the rear of the trans slightly, this combined with lowering the car could cause the driveshaft to run uphill away from the trans . . not great but many do this have some have no problem ir simply don't notice the vibration sand others have big problems with it . . one of the cures for this is to lower the engine but the lowering mounts are hard so they transfer more drivetrain vibration to the body. Ford lightening . . upon acceleration, the driveshaft goes past horizontal which is what you do not want on a high perf car or at high speeds, but at steady throttle the angle is fine. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkkFoThS5Wc Street car at drags . . driveshaft never goes beyond horizontal to the trans. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sAfCBwVkyBg drive shaft velocity examples https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmV4qwLfOMY this guy is a bit messed up in what he is saying . . what he says does not match the sound of the card he rubs on the gear, but it is still a good example if you only listen to the sound of the card. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4P75ZQvpws .

. for photos you can do the following. 1. type the following and include the brackets 2. go down 1 line and post the url to the photo. 3. type /img at the end of the url and add brackets to both sides like the one in the first line . . you need to include the forward slash. 4. now delete the space between the and the url. 5. hit send. .

the rear edge of yoir door should be 3/16" from the quarter psanel if your sheet metal is orig . . if it is and it has resistsance befire it gets to the latch, the rubber is the prob as others mentiined . . if the latches simply do not catch they are cheap chinese junk.

double post

unless you are racing, hood pins are unnecessary providing your hood latch is working properly. . it should also have a factory secondary safety catch . . if your hood did not come with them and you add them and sell the car, it might devalue it a bit.

all aluminum rods including all the ones i listed work on aluminum and all pot metal. they will not work on steel. there is no steel in aluminum or pot metal.

Its called many names. http://www.alumiweld.com/ http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-low-temperature-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html http://www.ebay.com/bhp/aluminum-brazing-rod http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bernzomatic-AL3-Aluminum-Brazing-and-Welding-Rods-334491/203710179 http://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-AL3-Aluminum-Brazing-Temperature/dp/B0000CBJGI http://durafix.com/

the valve covers could have been an earlier date than that and the date would be earlier than the engine . . perogies may have them.

. it appears that in addition to spending the time to change the forum color to plain white they were unfortunately unable to add some type of filter that could eliminate the spammers.

of its crack then a tig welder or low temp aluminum rod and a propane tirch and a bit of caution.

lol, the old bad gasket trick . . good catch . . yeah i have had that idle symptom around a zillion times which is why i suggested a plugged idle . . glad that its better now.

ok, well most likely just adding an extra vacuum can won't be enough for low speed driving . . my guess is you will have 12hg at the most at idle . . the hydroboost is ok as long as it does not spring a leak or somehow fail, but it has 2 hydraulic lines that need to be routed in your engine compartment away from the headers. the electric master from abs is clean and simple and a vacuum pump is another option.

it depends on how low your vacuum is . . the abs electric master works no matter what.

no prob you're welcome . . just make sure the oil hole in the side of the lifter does not come above the bevel in the top of the lifter bores.

the only difference i am aware of on the lifters is the hole size on top . . the last digit often designates some change to a part but the parts are still interchangeable . . as far as any internal difference goes, ford lifters were all pretty much the same.

lol, i know i was just "trying" to be being amusing . . i have probably done 30 of the edys, q jets a chesters and about 10 zillion combined of the other ones so pretty much the opposite of you it sounds like . . i think cliff ruggles has the q jet market cornered.