barnett468

virginia mustangs are the closest to original

YOU SHOULD RUN A FAN CONTROLLER WITH THAT TO AVOID PROBLEMS . . I WOULD BUY ONE FROM DCC. http://www.dccontrol.com/

. you can get sems interior spray paint from most auto stores and auto paint supply stores . . they have maybe 4 shades of white.

there is almost always some sign of orig color somewhere . . it is often gound in the trunk on the bottom side of the package tray if you have one or elsewhere in the trunk.

yes http://www.mustang-village.com/ or http://www.classicautoair.com/

. the main reasons people say that a strut rod suspension or rack and pinion works way better on their mustang than a std suspension or steering is because they are replacing old worn out parts with new ones and most struts come with decent shocks [because aftermarket struts do not come with cr_ppy shocks for an early mustang] and some struts come with progressive rate coil springs . . the strut design does not change the leverage of the front suspension a lot either. You can get the same exact ride buy buying good shocks like kyb white [if you are on a budget], koni’s or Vikings which are an improved version of the qa-1 shocks so perhaps they fixed the notorious leak problem that the qa-1’s have/had. There are at least two mfgs for progressive rate springs if you want them plus eibach will make anything you want. A shelby drop car will out turn a mustang II steering any day of the week. They raced this old school suspension at 160 mph in the old days . . worked just fine then so it seems to me it will still work just fine at 70. Here’s another good shock option http://www.strangeengineering.net/high-performance-street/shocks-struts-springs/ford-bolt-in-shocks-struts/64-73-mustang-front-double-adj-shock-ea.html http://www.strangeengineering.net/media/catalog/product/cache/1/small_image/252x252/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/s/5/s5045-1_2.jpg . .

rack and pinion does NOT reduce steering effort by much if at all . . if you want to reduce the steering effort, you need to change the steering ratios or add a power steering unit or run skinnier tires. borgeson has a simple bolt in ps unit but you need to increase your caster to around 2 - 2.5 degrees to increase the "return to center" feel in the steering wheel that is reduced by this set up. mustang std . . 19:1 = 4 5/8 turns mustang opt . . 16:1 = 3 3/4 turns mustang ps . . . 16:1 = 3 3/4 turns borgeson . . . . .16:1 = 3 3/4 turns http://www.cjponyparts.com/borgeson-power-steering-upgrade-kit-289-302-351w-1968-1970/p/PSK16/?utm_source=google&utm_medium=merchant&utm_campaign=shopping&gclid=CL3iwsSrpsMCFQsFaQodbJ8A9g .

neither the mustang II system nor a rack and pinion will reduce the steering effort . . shocks and springs have nothing to do with steering effort. you can't easily do a shelby drop on a mustang II set up.

the mustang II system will NOT give you a better "ride" in any way shape or form . . it simply will not happen.

no such thing as a white mustang dash pad . . if you do not need concours correct, paint it the color you want, however white is the correct color for white interior and black dash. .

the 70 mach 1 and non mach 1 seat frames were the same . . the 69 is slightly different in the springs in the head rest area . . the 70 can be modified in this area to work on 69. 70 seat frame

you can only lower this car with a spacer . . you can not raise it . . one of your leafs is weak or one of your fronts is weak . . its a bit of a challenge to know which one is is . . if you have lowering springs in the front you can put a thinner spacer in the front side that is high or a thicker one in the front side that is low . . if both sides in front are exactly the same then your front suspension is bent or the car is bent. .

yes it should hold vacuum . . get a piece of small vacuum line . . go under the car and connect it directly to the valve and check it.

thats better, lol . . oil can get on the hose at the modulator and deteriorate it or it can just get oul . . if you have a leak it might just be the hose on the valve.

yup, random mysterious thumbnail attachments to some of my posts too. much slower from both the cell phone and my computer. horrible pastel baby blue color with stark white background makes it look a little feminine, "clinical" and boring imo . . i sure hope a guy didn't choose the colors . . the last colors were the best on the net imo.

. you can just suck on the hose it you do not have a vacuum pump . . a gauge aline will not tell you anything.

. you dont need to spend a lot to get xlnt handling on the street . . the stock suspension arms arre plenty good enough . . the tubular arms are nice and look flashy but really are overkill unless you auto cross or road race . . a good budget set up is moog or mcquay arms and tie rod ends etc . . .a bearing type idler arm ids nice but this will reduce the auto return to center feel which bothers some people including me, but you can add a bit more positive castor to compensate for it . . scott drake urethane spring perches or nice . . roller perches are nicer but pricey . . tcp strud rod bushings . .480 or 520 lowering springs . . ride height can be adjusted with different height spacers . . the 620 springs are pretty stiff especially when combined with stiff shocks and big sway bar . . 15/16 or 1 inch front sway bar . . anything bigger is pretty stout . . white or back kyb shocks, better ones are konis or vikings with damping control knobs , . strut susp doesn't improve performance a lot but it does make it easier to adjust ride height . . for rear springs just get reverse eye 145 lb from tcp or detroit eaton etc . . anything heavier here will also start to feel fretty firm . . lower the upper front arm mounting position 1 inch same as 65-66 shelby . . you can add delrin front bushings in the leaf spring bushings to reduce body sway in the rear or a watts link to totally eliminate it, but it increases ride harshness . . look online at abs power brake supply in calif for brake kits . . alignmrent try point 3 negative camber [not 3] . . 2.0 positive caster . . 3/16 toe in . . this entire set up will handle xlnt but will increase ride firmness noticeably but will not be extremely firm or harsh post addition if you just want a noticeable improvement but prefer the ride to be a bit more soft than harsh and don't plan on super 'hard cornering or dont plsan on driving like andy granatelli, i would do the following: optional - lower front 1", this make a noticeable improvement in steering in the corners . . it makes it turn a bit tighter. 480 springs . . the stockers are around 210 so these are more than twice as stiff. 135 lb rear springs . . stockers are around 110. kyb front shocks or the adjustable konis or vikings . . the vikings have both adjustable compression and rebound knobs but they are 190.00 each. tcp strut bushings 15/16 front sway bar . . 1" if it is a big block. i hate racks on a non rack mustang . . the stock steering works just as well in proper condition. .

have him paint it with ppg solvent base if possible . . the colors are better overall with better side tones.

. http://www.cjponyparts.com/mach-1-trunk-stencil-kit-1970/p/SKST1/ .

the place below makes the best wheels . . some mustang suppliers sell them . . if you want the centers silver like a 69 boss 302 they can do that. .http://www.specialtywheel.com/

in1970, dodge had standard drum brakes, standard disc brakes and "heavy duty" drum brakes which were considered to be the upgrade from discs . . this is one of the reasons you see drum brakes on hemi cars . . the people that bought the pricey cars could easily afford the best brakes availab;e and many chose the drums . . disc brakes work far better when wet which is one of their biggest benefits . . the fact that ot takes more pressure to stop a disc than a drum kinda speaks for itself in regards to which one has more stopping power but disc brakes look flashy .

if the rotor fits snug on the threaded part of the stud but will not go over the larger shoulder of the stud then get different studs. check the clearance between the rotor and the caliper mounting bracket, it should be at least 1/8".

. if i went to a holley i would use a square bore ewhich means you likely need a $15.00 adapter plate. but i prefer the quick fuels . . you can buy a used carb on ehay and rob the parts . . that carb must have gotten moisture in it . . the torch can melt the metal.

wow, ok, one option is mix some trans fluid 50/50 with acetone and stand the carb on the side and dribble it around the shaft you can also try clr bathroom cleaner . . i wouldnlt get a torch within a mile of the car. with the butterflies out you can tap the end of the shadt to loosen it . . good luck drilling the screws out . . buy a new bit starter bit and try it.

no, silver paint pen from industrial hardware supply stores or arts and crafts stores like michaels