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bryonbush

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Everything posted by bryonbush

  1. I'm in need of/need to replace every linkage for the fastback including the Z bar pivot points. I don't see any reason to go back to the stock style system that will wear out. So I'm looking at the opentracker roller set up or going to a clutch cable as both come out around the same price. Any recommendations on either of the two kits?
  2. bryonbush

    Onto My Next Issue Brakes.

    I can honestly say I don't know. I switched out boosters last summer and since then I have way more pedal travel than I did before. I have bled these things still my legs fell off and never get any more air bubbles out. So I'm thinking that either 1: i need to just bring it to a place and have them vacuum out the system on a machine, 2: try new and better pads, or 3: find someone who is very familiar with these systems, have them take a ride and see what they say. Unfortunately I don't have a good idea of how these stock brakes feel as I feel as they have never been what they should be
  3. bryonbush

    Onto My Next Issue Brakes.

    Hey partner, any update? For as long as I have had my 69, even with all new every thing related to the brakes and they still suck. At this point I'm thinking it's maybe just the pads because I've bled this system a gazillion times and nothing seems to change
  4. bryonbush

    FS dart Windsor Jr heads

    Bumping this up
  5. Got a set of dart Windsor Jr heads that are in good shape. I'm willing to ship if interested. Looking for $500 plus shipping.
  6. bryonbush

    Heater Hose Routing

    if you look at the 6th photo in the link to LMR I posted, it shows where the temp gauge is. So depending on where your control valve is, I would think (key work there) that the coolant would be always in there. When I added my temp sensor I put it right where the bypass was since I don't have a heater core. but if I add heat ill need another place. another option would be to buy the same kit only without the added bung. then just drill and tap into the threaded area that goes into the intake. seen that done a few times but then your sensor sits pretty high.
  7. bryonbush

    Convertible Exhaust

    yup. the shop who did it did a very good job. one thing I don't like though is how they connected the headers to the pipe, they hang quite a bit and these are on Dougs Try-Y's. You would think for them pulling the collector out away from the trans a smidge, running it close together and through the brace, then nice and tight over the exhaust, they would've don't a little better at the collectors.. oh well, it works and I aint changing it. forgot to add... my trans tunnel gets pretty hot in the summers with the pipes so tightly in there. Vick: I would recommend putting some type of heat shield in there if you do it. I was actually thinking of taking some of the heat shield off a totaled ford fusion. I was under my wifes car changing the oil and noticed they have a pretty good run of that padded aluminum heat shielding stuff that would probably work pretty well.
  8. bryonbush

    Heater Hose Routing

    Look into the foxbody heater hose tubes. They are solid across the engine top and also have a bung for a temp sensor which will also help since your running efi. In my opinion it gives a cleaner look that the big rubber hoses. https://lmr.com/item/LRS-9424BA/Mustang-Heater-Tube-Assembly-w-o-Coolant-Tube-86-93-50-58
  9. bryonbush

    Convertible Exhaust

    I have 3 inch and don't have an issue. I HAD flowmaster 40s and while they sounded good, on long hauls at highway speeds you were almost deaf. I switched to magnaflow and it helped but still pretty loud. I'm going to be swapping my 351 into my fastback from my vert so my exhaust will go with it. When I put in the new motor in the vert thats when I'll probably go with something a little quieter
  10. bryonbush

    back seat panel

    Yeah I might go with the bar idea. Right now I have the seat pan removed still and the seats will have slider tracks so I should be able to put it in the best spot to avoid a functionality issue
  11. bryonbush

    back seat panel

    do you guys have any suggestions on how to close the opening where the back seats used to be and the trunk on a FB? I see on the other years they have a panel that can be screwed in but not able to locate something for the 69 fastbacks. I'm seeing if I should make a panel, fab some type of support/reinforcement brackets or just leave it open. Also, ill be installing my Corbeau FX1 pro seats this weekend and looking for ideas on seat belt mounting for the shoulder harness. Ive seen where they can connect to the back seat anchors. I also watched a CJPP video where they have a bolt in kit that connects from one side of the car to the other for your harness to connect to. I don't know when/ if ill be getting a cage so trying to find something that can help stiffen up the car as well as help keep me anchored in. Thanks
  12. bryonbush

    Original cylinder head upgrade

    If you're looking some that won't break the bank, I'm ditching a set of dart Windsor Jr.
  13. bryonbush

    69-70 Parts in ky

    What about leaf spring bushings and rear brake lines. Specifically the rubber one from body to axle housing and the metal lines on the axles
  14. Man that hood will look cool once it's finished
  15. bryonbush

    69-70 Parts in ky

    harness that feeds the gauges
  16. bryonbush

    69-70 Parts in ky

    Curious on window and door seals for a 69 fastback. Hydraulic cylinder for a 69 convertible. Gauge feed wire cluster
  17. bryonbush

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    I had to trim my tube quite a bit for it not to rub. Make sure that rag joint fits the borgeson box really well. Mine came loose one day and trying to re tighten it sucked. The cheap bolt ended up stripping out so that's when I went to the universal joint. Made my steering better but man the noise coming up the column sucks
  18. bryonbush

    Good clutch to use?.

    So I'm going to jump on this thread since by summer I'll be in the same position. Literally all I have on my car is a trans, clutch pedal, cable, and a floating z bar. I honestly couldn't tell ya what that z bar attaches to for stabilization as I've never had my own standard car. With that said, could some here suggest the parts to finish this out?
  19. bryonbush

    Might have to pull the heads

    im with ya. but I will say that my holley was pretty dialed in and it still doesn't hold a candle to how the efi preforms. It's getting better with some more tuning but im not a computer guy at all so I don't like to mess with something that im not too familiar with. on a side note I adjusted the AFR ratios this weekend and it seemed to knock out a lot of the smoke I was seeing. I didn't get a chance to pull the plugs but I did notice that when I rev it up its clearly the distinct smell of oil. ill see if I can gets some plugs out and see what has changed.
  20. For a while my motor has been burning oil. Initially it happened on start up and has been getting worse. I was thinking it's the valve seals and it still might be. Last few trips out I've been getting some backfiring when accelerating. I've replaced the plugs and made sure they were tight. I took the valve covers off and I've got double springs so I can't see if the seals are bad. I'm wondering if there's a burned valve or one floating around. At this point I'm thinking I might as well pull them to check the heads real well and maybe see if the pistons are messed up.
  21. bryonbush

    Might have to pull the heads

    Honestly there's a lot that can be done with this efi tuning but I don't dig too much into it as I don't want to mess tji ngs up I've read that o2 sensors are prone to failure quicker in aftermarket settings for some reason so it wouldn't surprise me if I did foul it out. My cold start sucks and I'm in the same boat as you having to hold open the throttle. I'm going to tinker with some more settings and drive it around a little today and see how the plugs look. If all else fails I'll have a new set of plugs in next week were I can start off fresh
  22. bryonbush

    Might have to pull the heads

    I posted pictures of the sparkplugs and the settings for my efi on the Fitech owners group on facebook and everyone agreed that im running super rich as well. my idle was pretty rich and cruise was a little on the rich side as well. im going to check the o2 sensor and see if its tight as well as other areas. I'm not getting any noticeable surging or idle issues that make me think there's a leak on the motor side. or maybe the o2 sensor is just fouled out and creating drama. But the plugs do have oil on them as well which still leads me to believe that there might be a valve seal issue at least.
  23. bryonbush

    Late model Mustang seat swap

    There’s a fella over on VMF who has a pretty good thread going on with this exact topic. He too had to cut and make new risers
  24. bryonbush

    Might have to pull the heads

    My bad, the pcv is going to the EFI not the intake. Ill have to unplug the PCV and see what it does. yes the covers have baffles. PCV is on the passenger side rear and the breather is on the driver side front and is a filtered unit that is atmospheric. tonight i pulled the back two spark plugs as they have probably less than 100 miles on them. #4 looks heavily oil saturated right at the tip. the threads are dry. #8 isnt as bad, but there is wet oil going up the threads. i just did those as they were the worse from when i changed them and also will see if the oil is coming from the PCV and going right to the back side. Right is the #4
  25. bryonbush

    Might have to pull the heads

    so the oil soaked plug is the #4 cylinder. im guessing that one is so bad due to that being the closet to where the vacuum line to the PCV valve is. But i added an oil separator on that a while ago. This is the first time the plugs have been changed. a while back when i first noticed oil coming out of the breather i did a compression test. all cylinders came in within 10 psi from each other at max difference. i haven't done one lately though. the efi AFR sensor is on the driver side of the exhaust and the two sides are not connected by an h or x pipe. i don't think the #1 cylinder wasn't not firing, because it still pulls strong. im running an MSD 6AL box and MSD pro billet distributor. if there was an issue with the valves not seating correctly or burned up, would this be a reason why id get more engine run on when shutting down? it would do it occasionally with my carb, and stopped with the efi. then it has been creeping back and now it happens all the time.
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