bryonbush

I have 3 inch and don't have an issue. I HAD flowmaster 40s and while they sounded good, on long hauls at highway speeds you were almost deaf. I switched to magnaflow and it helped but still pretty loud. I'm going to be swapping my 351 into my fastback from my vert so my exhaust will go with it. When I put in the new motor in the vert thats when I'll probably go with something a little quieter

Yeah I might go with the bar idea. Right now I have the seat pan removed still and the seats will have slider tracks so I should be able to put it in the best spot to avoid a functionality issue

do you guys have any suggestions on how to close the opening where the back seats used to be and the trunk on a FB? I see on the other years they have a panel that can be screwed in but not able to locate something for the 69 fastbacks. I'm seeing if I should make a panel, fab some type of support/reinforcement brackets or just leave it open. Also, ill be installing my Corbeau FX1 pro seats this weekend and looking for ideas on seat belt mounting for the shoulder harness. Ive seen where they can connect to the back seat anchors. I also watched a CJPP video where they have a bolt in kit that connects from one side of the car to the other for your harness to connect to. I don't know when/ if ill be getting a cage so trying to find something that can help stiffen up the car as well as help keep me anchored in. Thanks

Got a set of dart Windsor Jr heads that are in good shape. I'm willing to ship if interested. Looking for $500 plus shipping.

If you're looking some that won't break the bank, I'm ditching a set of dart Windsor Jr.

What about leaf spring bushings and rear brake lines. Specifically the rubber one from body to axle housing and the metal lines on the axles

Man that hood will look cool once it's finished

harness that feeds the gauges

Curious on window and door seals for a 69 fastback. Hydraulic cylinder for a 69 convertible. Gauge feed wire cluster

I had to trim my tube quite a bit for it not to rub. Make sure that rag joint fits the borgeson box really well. Mine came loose one day and trying to re tighten it sucked. The cheap bolt ended up stripping out so that's when I went to the universal joint. Made my steering better but man the noise coming up the column sucks

So I'm going to jump on this thread since by summer I'll be in the same position. Literally all I have on my car is a trans, clutch pedal, cable, and a floating z bar. I honestly couldn't tell ya what that z bar attaches to for stabilization as I've never had my own standard car. With that said, could some here suggest the parts to finish this out?

im with ya. but I will say that my holley was pretty dialed in and it still doesn't hold a candle to how the efi preforms. It's getting better with some more tuning but im not a computer guy at all so I don't like to mess with something that im not too familiar with. on a side note I adjusted the AFR ratios this weekend and it seemed to knock out a lot of the smoke I was seeing. I didn't get a chance to pull the plugs but I did notice that when I rev it up its clearly the distinct smell of oil. ill see if I can gets some plugs out and see what has changed.

Honestly there's a lot that can be done with this efi tuning but I don't dig too much into it as I don't want to mess tji ngs up I've read that o2 sensors are prone to failure quicker in aftermarket settings for some reason so it wouldn't surprise me if I did foul it out. My cold start sucks and I'm in the same boat as you having to hold open the throttle. I'm going to tinker with some more settings and drive it around a little today and see how the plugs look. If all else fails I'll have a new set of plugs in next week were I can start off fresh

I posted pictures of the sparkplugs and the settings for my efi on the Fitech owners group on facebook and everyone agreed that im running super rich as well. my idle was pretty rich and cruise was a little on the rich side as well. im going to check the o2 sensor and see if its tight as well as other areas. I'm not getting any noticeable surging or idle issues that make me think there's a leak on the motor side. or maybe the o2 sensor is just fouled out and creating drama. But the plugs do have oil on them as well which still leads me to believe that there might be a valve seal issue at least.

There’s a fella over on VMF who has a pretty good thread going on with this exact topic. He too had to cut and make new risers

My bad, the pcv is going to the EFI not the intake. Ill have to unplug the PCV and see what it does. yes the covers have baffles. PCV is on the passenger side rear and the breather is on the driver side front and is a filtered unit that is atmospheric. tonight i pulled the back two spark plugs as they have probably less than 100 miles on them. #4 looks heavily oil saturated right at the tip. the threads are dry. #8 isnt as bad, but there is wet oil going up the threads. i just did those as they were the worse from when i changed them and also will see if the oil is coming from the PCV and going right to the back side. Right is the #4

so the oil soaked plug is the #4 cylinder. im guessing that one is so bad due to that being the closet to where the vacuum line to the PCV valve is. But i added an oil separator on that a while ago. This is the first time the plugs have been changed. a while back when i first noticed oil coming out of the breather i did a compression test. all cylinders came in within 10 psi from each other at max difference. i haven't done one lately though. the efi AFR sensor is on the driver side of the exhaust and the two sides are not connected by an h or x pipe. i don't think the #1 cylinder wasn't not firing, because it still pulls strong. im running an MSD 6AL box and MSD pro billet distributor. if there was an issue with the valves not seating correctly or burned up, would this be a reason why id get more engine run on when shutting down? it would do it occasionally with my carb, and stopped with the efi. then it has been creeping back and now it happens all the time.

that's what im wondering too. ive been getting blow-by out of my breather valve out of the driver side for a while now. which if that's the case, ill probably end up just pulling the motor since ill have the top end apart anyways.

i dont think im running lean. with this efi, it regulates my AFRs. and the obvious sight and smell of burning oil. I pulled the plugs a few weeks ago and some of them were pretty oil saturated while some looked good. these were off the passenger side bank. front to back goes from right to left.

this motor isnt but 4 years old and has the edelbrock performer rpm top end kit. so the backfiring occurred this morning after startup. this efi seems a little touchy at times during first start up till things warm up. then it wont happen the rest of the day. we're closing on our house on the 28th so till things settle down, this will probably have to wait. what im most curious about is if ill be able to notice anything out of wack while replacing the seals. what brand seals would yall recommend?

Did you start to get engine run on when you turned off the car too? Mine has been happening more and more and I even have efi

For a while my motor has been burning oil. Initially it happened on start up and has been getting worse. I was thinking it's the valve seals and it still might be. Last few trips out I've been getting some backfiring when accelerating. I've replaced the plugs and made sure they were tight. I took the valve covers off and I've got double springs so I can't see if the seals are bad. I'm wondering if there's a burned valve or one floating around. At this point I'm thinking I might as well pull them to check the heads real well and maybe see if the pistons are messed up.

well ill start at the beginning. i started off with this to replace my old worn out everything when it came to the PS. I bought the kit and used the hoses they provided. problem one is the return prong goes directly into the headers. and its a prong so there's a loose connection there. problem two, like you noticed is that the hoses are right over the headers. A few months of use, which included a few stops on the power tour, the hoses were shot. those hoses always leaked at the box no matter what i did. thats when i decided to make custom hoses to run under the car, then back up along the shock tower. the new hoses worked great. till the seals in the box itself blew. took that box off and sent it to borgeson for repair. this box felt better than the last; much tighter feeling. then comes the hoses busting at the seams on the pressure side. hose #2..same thing this time on the return side. this time i had the hose company crimp on a metal curve to get it away from the headers as much as possible. Now to the pump: somehow this thing is always freaking blowing fluid from the cap. not sure why or how and no matter what i do, it doesnt change. and no, theres no air in the lines, i drive it all over town and just getting out of the garage involves a full turn to turn rotation. im honestly to the point of either going back to stock PS or non power all together. ive posted this rant on this forum before and it seems to me that there is a lot of love or hate for borgeson.

I’m going to wish you luck now with borgeson. With the saganaw pumps power it’s going to show every weak spot on your hose set up. I have had two sets of custom hoses made by hose shops and after this, if they go again I’m going manual rack. Hopefully yours turn out great but that’s one of life’s decisions I regret making as it’s been a non stop hassle.

I ran that afr gauge that I used for my tuning. It did a good job. Generally that bung will have to be back behind the collector by a few inches.