Rsmach1

Hey Kaspar, just wanted to make sure you're aware, the lunatti cam you listed is a hydraulic roller, while the rest are hydraulic flat tappet. The Voodoo FT would be part #10350701, Specs Advertised 256/262 Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 213/219 Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .483/.499 LSA/ICL: 112/108 RPM Range: 1000-5500 Next step up would be #10350702 Specs Advertised (Int/Exh): 262/268 Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 219/227 Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .499/.522 LSA/ICL: 112/108 RPM Range: 1400-5800

+1 with Ray. I'd also get in the habit of starting the car and bringing it up to temp bi-weekly or at least monthly when being stored. Dried up carb gaskets/seals might also be causing issues.

1st think I'd try is to run the tank low and get a fresh tank of fuel. Also check for vacuum leaks all around the carb and check fuel pressure(do you have a vacuum/pressure gauge?) When you say almost brand new, how long has the carb been on the car? Edit also check your choke setting and operation.

Yep, here ya go https://www.google.com/search?q=1966+mustang+frame+measurements&client=ms-android-verizon&prmd=sivn&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&fir=iulHCnFL4hxftM%253A%252CxeyvholTgitgEM%252C_%253B54sFwARGM4bUiM%253A%252CB8ja3jBH4pYOxM%252C_%253BqAL_UNrXq4InBM%253A%252CEvushIzS7kHd7M%252C_%253BEozmWgB-JR7QtM%253A%252CaRrZRghGzc901M%252C_%253B-hp8HYPR22nfvM%253A%252CfafFPjvHY3ThKM%252C_%253BU2XFdkCO3kEJ3M%253A%252CaRrZRghGzc901M%252C_%253BWyn_MVbgqHlbgM%253A%252Co6P-PuUSSGnx5M%252C_%253BwVZzknPakJVQiM%253A%252CTv7bMkxUP6XnPM%252C_%253BC2dXuBdx_WW3yM%253A%252CVJ3apxXY4nB4kM%252C_%253B-z04IewvDnwgTM%253A%252CVJ3apxXY4nB4kM%252C_&usg=__Nnn4RzsZws0qVIjC8uaynB8KFLc%3D&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiZ1unmj9DNAhUT-mMKHd5WD40Q7AkILA&biw=360&bih=511#imgrc=54sFwARGM4bUiM%3A

What carb do you have? Edit also how much ethanol is in your local pump gas? I'm leaning towards carb/fuel. Here is an interesting tidbit http://www.drivenracingoil.com/news/dro/training-center/articles/protect-yourself-ethanol-is-killing-your-carburetor/

Based on you wanting a calm idle and low rpm power I'd vote the voodoo you listed (yes I'm partial to Lunati). The comp 260h is a ok cam but it's an older single pattern design from the late 70s, you'll get better performance from a split pattern design. The Crane is another good older desin, but it's basically a step above stock, very mild. I have no experience with Oregon's cams, but based on specs and your daily driver request I wouldn't go any bigger than the smaller of the 2 cams. JMHO.

Look at the bright side, after the first 20-30 spot welds you cut you'll feel like a pro, same goes for the plug welds lol.

Looking good.

Now that was funny, nice catch.

The Viking kit is definitely more reasonable. Did you notice how they mount? It's not rocket science, it's very simple actually, not much R&D. I understand all about manufacturing costs and R&D, I also understand all about corporate greed. Case in point, FiTech, here is a company that came out with a bolt on efi system with all the bells and whistles for a grand, thats 50% less than what Holly wanted for there terminator kit. All of a sudden now Holly can make a kit for a grand, hmmm, can you say corporate greed. Now I can go on and on about the aftermarket's love for brand "c" and how much cheaper similar parts are, while we pay a premium as Ford Mustang fans, but I'll stop my ranting now lol.

When it comes down to it I believe we are all just being gouged, because this is a specialty market. You can buy a pair of QA1 PRO coilover's for $400-470 bucks, and their economy pro coilover's start at $110 ea. We are paying for what it's for....not what it is.

Just curious, what brand of sheetmetal you went with?

Check the tachs ground wire. Trace it from the back of the tach too ground. Also try grounding it separately all by itself.

So many coilover's out there, yes, but coilover's that retain the stock upper/lower control arms, very few. From what I've seen you are looking at $800+ a set from TCP. Another option would be to contact Eibach directly and see if they can make you custom coils so you don't have to cut em.

Harold designed their original High Energy series, he did NOT design the the XE line. EDIT; He left Comp cams in 1980 and opened Ultradyne cams.

Also heating the dowel itself will expand it and make it harder to remove. I you do end up having to remove it, get a can of aerisol computer duster, hold it upside-down and with the straw spray just the dowel with the liquid for a few seconds (don't get it on your skin). This will fast freeze the dowel, quickly using vice grips twist and pull, and it should come out. Edit; If that doesn't work try heating up the cam a LITTLE on each side of the dowel and repeat the above.

Just for reference the dowel length you want is 1.375. To correct myself the change in length was actually in 1973.

As long as the eccentric catches about 3/4 through you should be ok. Before you continue trying to remove the dowel install the new cam sprocket by itself, let's sea how far it sticks out past the sprocket.

Also when installing the timing set you got be sure to check the clearance to the cam thrust plate, that should be outlined in the instructions.

There is only 1 dowel, and it is retained by the cam bolt washer (the washer should cover 1/2 of the dowel). There is another 2 pc type eccentric that mounts differently but you should have the 1 pc. Can you take a close up picture of it and post it.

It's not easy with the starter there, and depending how much dirt there is. Might be able to to see it from the bottom looking over the starter with a mirror and a flashlight. Edit; Or under the starter, can't remember lol, I haven't had to do it in years.

Side of block, where the starter is.

Block #s first letter should be D for 70s then the year is the second digit.

Your not alone Afret, I'll be doing the 15" big/little on mine when the time comes, love the "ol school" look. Not my thumbs.

Do you have the original pieces you took out? Did you get a new dowel? What timing chain set did you get? New eccentric? Edit if I'm not mistaken there are 2 different length dowels available, 1 for use with the eccentric and 1 without an eccentric (efi cars).