JD08

If anyone has an interest in Mobil 1, better stock up before the end of the month. https://mobiloil.com/en/promotion/mobil-promotions/up-to-15-dollars-off-with-mobil-1-and-mobil-super

Custom Auto Sound claims they sound the best as replacements. I know they kind of have a dog in the hunt since they make them, but they do have higher priced options.

I would've spent 20% more and bought one that was 100% after making sure the wiring was in perfect order.

It looks like there is 3.5 inches of available space due to an indentation on the center vent. Given that the magnet on the stock speaker and the magnet on the CJ piece look to be about the same depth, I'm willing to give it a shot.

Wouldn't the one from CJ's fit an A/C car? It doesn't look much different from stock. I've got the dash apart in my 70 A/C car. I'll see what kind of distance there is between the the panel and the center A/C vent and report back.

Take a look at Baumann Engineering. They should have a controller for your transmission.

The Aussie heads are $600 or so delivered from ausfordparts.com, but I'd prefer to keep it a true 4V. coz, where are you located and what are you asking?

I have a 70 351C-4V and apparently the PO decided it would be a good idea to use one open chamber and one closed chamber head. I have a line on a closed chamber head to replace the offending head, but I was curious what my options are if it falls through. I know I can get Aussie heads for relatively cheap, but that would require me to replace my intake and shorty headers, correct?

3. Because too much time goes by and when you have a chance to get back to it, you don't remember where you left the screws to the _____ you were replacing.

A hockey puck costs $1.50 and if you put a little groove in the middle similar to the ones in Mach 1 Driver's link they work just fine. If you have a problem with the fuel line or something similar, just don't cut the groove as deep.

From the tail on the m to the outer edge of the 1 is 4.5 inches as is the bottom outer edge of m to the tali of the 1. Of course, that doesn't guarantee those are the factory dimensions because mine's been repainted.

Sold. I'll be in touch soon.

I completely missed that. I have a harness that's pretty close to a complete basket case. It looks like Midlife's gonna get a little more business.

Randy, What do you do in the event someone sends you a pretty trashed harness for refurb? Asking for a friend.

Interesting. Since I don't see any other unaccounted for connectors, where does the sport lamp switch connect? Did they make multiple harnesses? If so, I guess I'll have to add those wires in.

I'm trying to figure out exactly how the sport lamp switch connects to the harness. The only available connector I have is the one shown below. any ideas?

Bring it to Florida. They seem to think they're worth a fortune here.

Wasn't there a resource somewhere that documented the size of every fastener? I can't remember if it was a book or a website. Edit: Found it. The AMK Fastener guide along with the Assembly manuals. Get the part # from the assembly manuals, then look it up in the AMK guide.

If FI worked the same as a carb, why switch? The power band specs you're finding are for carbs, not FI. There is a significant difference between fuel under 7 psi going through a jet constantly and fuel at 59 psi going through a computer controlled injector. The best description I can find is by a poster named Dragula in this thread. http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php/topics/701872/open-vs-dual-plane-intake-for-fi.html

The single/dual plane argument is for carbs. It apparently doesn't apply to FI because of the adjustments the computer can make.

If some people say there's a problem with a dual plane and nobody says there's a problem with single plane, why chance it? IIRC, the throttle body units work better with a single plenum, but adding a spacer or trimming the center divider of a dual plane will do that. I suspect the dual planes were overcoming a weakness of a carb's low fuel pressure creating the proper atomization.

I've got a little more insight here. I've got an Edelbrock Torker 351 intake and the PO had the coil mounted on the driver side because the fuel lines blocked the coil mounting hole on the passenger side. Apparently I'll have to extend the temp sensor wire also.

Is yours a Cleveland? My oil pressure sender is in the rear.

I'm talking about the three wire harness that connects the oil pressure, temp sensor, and coil to the main harness. My old one was spliced in several places. The new one seems very taut so I want to see the correct routing.

Does anyone have a picture of the engine gauge feed harness installed in a 1970 with a 351 Cleveland 4V? The one that was removed was hacked up and spliced and the new one seems awful short in comparison.