Midlife

Sounds about right.

Look for a green/red or red/green wire. If your underdash harness is factory correct, you should have a red/green AND a red/yellow wire attached to a female plug. The male plug on the underdash harness would be the infamous pink resistor wire.

Your tach wiring is incorrect if your tach is the factory tach. The female lead from the tach should have a wire going to the positive side of the coil; the male lead should have a wire coming from the ignition switch. The tach is inline with the ignition/coil line, not grounded like almost all aftermarket tachs.

The 297 wires do not interface with the sportslamps switch. The "dot" near the sportslamp simply indicates a splice point. My bad earlier: Model 63C must be the fastback/Mach 1 configuration. The note indicates that this switch is only available for the Mach 1.

No no no no! Please do not do this! This is how one blows the diodes in the alternator.

Model 63C is for a Mach 1 fastback, IIRC. Corrected.

Ummm...the top center fuse taps gets their power from the ignition switch whenever the switch is in ACC or RUN position. Yellow wire with green stripe? There is no wire like that. Do you mean the green wire with yellow stripe? Yellow/green certainly does not go to the sport lamp switch plug. That plug has two lines: grey and black (although I have seen blue/red for black). Power for the sport lamp switch is the same as the PRNDL socket, and gets the power from the headlight switch. The grey wire goes outbound to the foglamps.

Well, is the engine coolant hot or ambient temperature? If ambient, the gauge won't move off of cold. It's possible that you have a wrong sending unit. Measure the resistance from the sender post to ground at room temperature and it should read something like 73 to 83 ohms. When hot, it should read something like 20-30 ohms. Having the gauge max out when the sending unit line is grounded is good news! That says everything up to the sending unit is working.

Yeah, Easy Off HD with lye is the only variant that works. Use it outdoors at least 72*, coat heavy, let sit for 15-20 minutes then wash off. You may have to do 2-3 applications. A stiff plastic brush will help remove old paint off of the fiberglass. Easy Off HD will not affect metal, chrome, etc.

Typically, there is a plastic sheet at the base of the pins. Using a small jeweler's screwdriver, lift up on side, work it around and remove. Then using the same screwdriver, bend back the tab on the pin and pull the pin out through the back. If you're good, you can push on the pin head. The NPD tool for removing pins is not all that good, but you are more than welcome to try it.

Some people have had problems with Halogens and headlight switches, as they pull more current than normal incandescent bulbs. That causes the headlight switch internal circuit breaker to activate. From what I've heard, those cars with separate high beam lamps seem to accept the Halogens better than combined headlamps.

Yes. You're lucky to have it, about 50% of them have been cut/butchered.

Almost every fuse will have 12V with the key in RUN, EXCEPT the 4V dash lamps. It gets its power from the headlight switch, which must be pulled out and rotated fully on. Input power will vary from 0 to 12V. Lately, folks have been having problems with the reproduction circuit boards: I know of at least 4 bad boards in the past 6 months. This may explain your oil pressure light.

If only I was within driving distance.

The fusible links are designed to be replaced with a butt splice. You can find the 14 gauge at: http://www.picowiring.com/pdf/Cat-22.pdf

I know that the Alloy Metal reproductions have two green/black wires of the same gauge (high beams and washer pump), but switching those two wires doesn't account for your original issue. Can I ask which two wires were backwards?

The I post at the starter solenoid should be zero volts when the wire is disconnected and the key in the RUN position. When the wire is connected, you should see the same voltage as at the coil: 6.5-9V. It sounds like someone may have bypassed your pink resistor wire.

Absolutely. Halogen lamps use more current than the headlight switch/circuit breaker was designed for. If you want to continue using Halogen lamps, you'll need to use a relay directly off of the battery and the trigger signal will be the headlight signal. You'll need one relay for low beams and another for high beams.

How does the tool stay fixed to the wheel? I could only see this if you drilled the three holes specifically for your wheels with a friction fit. To make the tool a bit more versatile, a slot for the top screw would allow different size wheels.

Headlight switch is not the cause of the high beam failures. The headlight switch provides power to the dimmer switch, which simply switches it over to low beams or high beams. If low beams work and high beams don't, it is likely the dimmer switch that is bad. To test it, unplug the switch and jumper the red/orange wire to the red/black wire (high beams). If high beams work, then switch is definitely bad. The two bad fuses: do you think they were bad when I provided the harness? I check continuity across all fuses during my final checkout procedure. I will willingly provide replacements upon request.

Repeat the test at the coil by removing the wire at the + side of the coil. Measure the voltage at the disconnected lead. If it is still 8.09V, then the wiring is bad (probably a previous owner screwed up the pink resistor wire). If it is battery voltage, then the coil itself or the ignition system is drawing the voltage down by excessive current.

Yes, it is possible. Also, some aftermarket dizzies require a full 12V for running and if not properly set-up, can burn up the pink resistor wire. If that happens, it can damage the contact inside the molded plug where the brown and pink resistor wire meet.

Not quite true. The brown wire coming from the I terminal meets up with the end of the pink resistor wire at the firewall plug. From there, a red/green wire goes to the coil. Going from the I terminal to the coil should have essentially zero resistance. The pink resistor wire has about 1.5 ohms resistance, and it starts either at the tach or the ignition, depending upon a tach or standard dash.

The owner's manual (repro)? Mustang catalogs? I find most bulb numbers from an old CJPony catalog.

On the far left side of a forum is an envelope: sometimes it is closed, sometimes it is open. Some are orange or red, some are yellow. I figured out those with an arrow in them are those I have responded to. I looked in the FAQ but couldn't find any discussion of these icons. Just curious...