ThePoose
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Posts posted by ThePoose
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Thanks. Some great ideas here. Aslanefe, what did you use to make the mold for the full enclosure you show here?
I've used styrofoam in the past to build the shape, but I'm sure there's something better.
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Machspeed,
A guy named Luis in Upland, CA. No joke, I don't even know his last name. His shop looks like a place you'd never leave your car in a million years, but he does great work. He came referred by a friend I trust who knows him through his work. I couldn't find anyone around here that would paint a car in less than two years, and the prices were stupid. So, I haul cars from the Portland area down to LA. He has my 69 GT right now.
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Mach1,
Here's a couple of quick shots, along with my disaster of a shop. I'll get around to updating my build thread one of these days.
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The holes in my doors are "from the factory", but I don't think there was any rhyme or reason to the placement. As long they're secure.
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Don't know if anyone has done this, but thought I'd post here to see if there are any issues I'm not thinking of. I don't like the looks of the kick panels with the speaker pods, I sure don't want to cut holes in the doors I just had repaired, and I never really never used the vents, so was thinking about building a fiberglass and metal enclosure for some 5-inch (approx) speakers. They would mount in the same spots as the vents, so should seal the cabin. Other than not having the vent handles visible, unless I do a modification to fake that up, are there any issues that could be caused by doing this?
It is an AC car, in case anyone is concerned about my comfort.Thanks.
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Vicfreg,
Don't know if you still need the door panel hole locations, but here they are. Measured from the back edge (latch end) of the door,
Hole 1 -- 1.5 inches from edge, 2.25 inches from the bottom.
Hole 2 -- 12.375 from edge, 1.5 inches from the bottom.
Hole 3 -- 22.875 from edge, 1.5 inches from the bottom.
Hole 4 -- 34.25 from edge, 1.5 inches from the bottom.
Hole 5 -- 43.25 from edge, 2 inches from the bottom.I thought they would have been more uniform, but were consistent between my two doors. With a couple of quick images.
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Machspeed,
I did this a couple of weeks ago. In order, the two bolts with J-nuts at the wheel opening.
The captured nut that goes in the valance from the inside,
then from the outside through the bracket that attaches to the bumper.
Top center of the valance, attaches to the center support with a J-nut on the support. (a couple of these I couldn't get to focus)
The bolt that goes through the valance in the front and attaches to the headlight extension with a J-nut on the extension.
And from the back
Last is the bottom of the main support that attaches to the core support. Usually there's a J-nut on this, but the new spoiler came with a nut and bolt I used instead. No spoiler then it's definitely a J-nut.
Reverse for the other side.
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NPD and all the others sell them. If your car has the holes still, I'd put them in to keep the dirt out. That's why I'm doing it. If you replaced the panels and the holes aren't there, personally, I wouldn't bother. I don't think any of us are doing the heavy, everyday driving or letting them sit outside where we'd have to worry about the trunk needing to drain. But that's one person's opinion.
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
Yeah, I was thinking RTV. I think they do a better job of keeping dirt out than draining water. Thanks.
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Any secret to installing these guys? I place the tabs in the square hole, but they sure don't fit tight to the body, and they pull out pretty easily. I remember pinching the tabs together from inside the trunk to get them out, so I thought pinching those two squares would expand the tabs in the back and pull it tight, but that wasn't working. I'm prepared to feel dumb.
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Repeating some of the same here. The booster shouldn't affect the switch, but maybe you got a manual switch for an auto (or vice versa)? The price difference between the two is pretty significant if I remember right. Even though it works, the booster you have will likely fail sooner than later. How soon will likely depend on how much you drive your car. Definitely watch that WCCC video to understand why, or just for all around knowledge. Brakes will still work, so no worries. And if you do decide on a rebuild of one, thumbs up for Booster Dewey.
Mach1 Driver reacted to this -
The car looks awesome. And that blackout trim makes it look angry.
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Those are the stock wheels off my son's '04 Mach I. 17x8, 215 55R17 tires. Just temporary till I figure out what I want.
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Brought the Mach home from paint yesterday and started assembly. It has medallions!
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Are the bolts that attach the front of the fender to the radiator support mounted correctly in this photo? It looks to match the assembly manual, and given the recesses on the fenders, makes sense. But nearly every 69 I look at has the j-nuts on the radiator support with the head visible on the front - which is easier for sure. Thanks.
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Getting ready to repair the hole for the sending unit in the trunk of my coupe and wondering if the holes on either side were factory or put there by the previous owner. They just seemed too well placed and even. Pic below. Thanks.
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Pardon the crude drawing. Took all measurements from the center of the pie cuts. Meaning that 22 1/4 is from the center of the pie cut on the cuts closest to the front of the hood. It was just getting messy. Mirrored measurements are all the same. All the pie cuts are the same size, the lengths of the two sides shown are if the lines continued straight instead of curving. The shapes of the forward two cuts are different on the radius, which you can see on the photo Ridge sent. If you have to cut the underside of the hood for the turn signals, those rear two oval measurement will be different from the top of the hood shown here.
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When do you start taking orders? Smile emoji.
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Thanks, Rich. Good info. It looks now like they've moved away from the CDs and are all flash drives or ebooks, which I figure are PDFs. My computer doesn't even have a CD/DVD drive.
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I was looking at downloading them. From the limited images it looks like the Mustang Parts and Body Illustrations might be pulled from the 5-volume Car and Shop Manual. Or is the Parts and Body all a person really needs? Just don't want to pay for both if I don't need them. Thanks.
Question for those running 9-10 wide rear wheels
in 1969-70 Technical Forum
Posted · Report reply
After months of indecision, I finally pulled the trigger on some new wheels. I just received them and went to test fit before I ordered tires. I went with a 17x9 in the rear with a 5-inch offset, which the fitment charts (and forum conversations) say is a fit without rubbing. My question is should that wheel fit inside the wheelwell? I have about 2.5 inches of space on the inside, but the outside edge of the wheel extends into the inner part of the fender lip. Is this pretty standard? Because when I read fits without rubbing, in my head it was completely inside the wheelwell. Is this more or less what you're experiencing? Trying to post images, but nothing I've done before seems to be working. Everything is an error.
Thanks for your help.