69mi

Will it turn over when you hot wire it?

Rotate the spring 180 degrees.

Try tapping on the starter solenoid. They can get stuck.

I have a lot if seat belts. What do you need? They are black. I think, they are good for 68' 69 maybe 70 years. If anyone knows plz chime in. I will sell them for what I paid.

Not sure..the battery was low and The starter solenoid was stuck so I think that is what brought the battery to zero volts. I banged on the solenoid to disengage and everything seems normal again. Afterwards, I did the checks as described above and those were within limits. So right now I don't think I can troubleshoot until the problems pops up again. I talked to an auto electric dude and he speculated that the capacitors in my radio amp can cause mysterious electrical draws like that. Anyway, thanks to all for the responses.

Thnx for the advice. I'll start there. Is there a way to check the short without connecting the battery cables and risking minor explosion?

A while back... I drove to a friends house and was sitting in the car listening to the radio with the engine off. I started to mess with the light dimmer and lost all power. I put a volt meter to the bat and it was totally discharged. I swapped out the battery and when I connected the cables...bam... Full arc weld short! Shock and oww I guessed it had something to do with the light switch and disconnected it and pulled the light switch off to look for burnt wires and terminals. Nothing looked smoked, so I left the light switch disconnected and reconnected the battery terminals. I got power back and got the car home. I carefully checked the light switch for signs of damage and found nothing, I put the switch back in after some troubleshooting and the car worked normally for the next year. The other day I went to start the car, the battery was low and after the second crank attempt, I lost all power...this brought back bad memories of shock and oww. The battery was totally discharged again. I disconnected the light switch but still have a short when the cables are placed on the battery. Now I'm thinking that it may be the ignition switch or the starter relay. With the battery disconnected I have continuity between positive side of starter relay and ground..I don't think it should be that way. All original wire harness with a few mods... Bypassed resistor wire for pertronix, tapped into some blue black wires for power to radio and amp, tapped into ignition switch for alternate 12v power to instrument cluster circuit board. Any ideas.....thanks

My 2cents...put the hood on first and gap the cowl, start from the front. Line up your fenders to the hood and work you way back to the rear quarters. The gaps on one side of the car might not be the same as the other side, but it is less noticeable than the fenders and hood not matching. If you want the gaps on both sides to match then you will have to build out one of the rear quarters to make it work.

I've got a full set of rear belts in black. Do you still need them?

How about checking the timing. And I don't think 210 is hot, a 195 thermo is what's suppose to be in it.

You can buy the 24" HE 3 core from NPD (or where ever) along with the upper lower mount brackets and no mods are required. They also had a chart that specified the correct shroud for what ever radiator you choose. The lower mount brackets were not manufactured correctly and I had to modify them, but that was a few years ago and they may have changed the design.

I think the end of the rod that connects to the handle is threaded. You might be able to adjust the throw that way.

351w stock. Flat tappet. My engine builder told me to use zinc additive for break in. Do I need to keep using this stuff forever? Thnx

I have replaced mine twice. The first time: I just clamped the felt to the door then drilled holes for rivets. The second time: I clamped the felt to the door(IIRC the felt had per drilled holes for the staples and they lined up with the original door holes or I may have used a pick and drill to make new holes for the staples) then I push the staple thru and bent them over.

Thanks for the replies. I don't mean to be an anarchist but after I win the lottery I'm gonna buy an AAR cuda and park it next to the stang....love that car!

My headliner has loosened up some between the sail panel and window. Will heating it up with a hair dryer or heat gun shrink it and remove/reduce the wrinkles that have popped up?

Be careful when you push the seat back. The retractor will eventually break the seat hinge cover if it is mounted in the original bolt hole.

You can use body plugs. The kits come in various sizes. Or cut off the originals from the harness and reuse. I have never seen repos.

Glen your parents should have named you Dick - enough said....move on

I took a look on ebay. It looks like a set in good condition is somewhere between 110 and 240. How does 125.00 sound. FedEx ground was about 20.00. If that's good for you I will send some pics. Pm me with an email address, it will be easier to send pics that way. Al

I took a look on ebay. It looks like a set in good condition is somewhere between 110 and 240. How does 125.00 sound. FedEx ground was about 20.00. If that's good for you I will send some pics. Pm me with an email address, it will be easier to send pics that way. Al

Pete, I have a set of rears (in black) in good condition for a 69 Mach. If they are the same as a 70 and you want them let me know. Al

Pete, I have a set of rears (in black) in good condition for a 69 Mach. If they are the same as a 70 and you want them let me know. Al

Update. I hope this will help someone in the future...... First i called pertronix and the tech said that the coil should be getting at least 9volts. He also told me that the secondary winding should be around 9000 ohms(the ford manual says between 7000-9000ohms). The pertronix instruction manual also says to remove the ignition resistor wire. the voltage to first coil that i had bought from them was at 5.5volts with the ignition resistor wire installed and the secondary winding registered 11000 ohms. The new coil secondary winding was at 9000 ohms. I bypassed the resistor wire and registered 10 volts at the coil. I think the voltage regulator overcharge screwed up the first coil, but this issue may have been caused by the resistor wire and the corresponding low voltage. I changed both at the same time, so I don't know which one was causing the ignition problem.

You don't need a 70 regulator. When I converted mine I only changed to a 70 window and slide brackets. The 69 regulators are the same(or close enough) and work with 70 windows.