Jump to content

69mi

Members
  • Content Count

    73
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About 69mi

  • Rank
    Mustang Owner

Converted

  • Biography
    short/fat/bald/missing teeth
  • Location
    Skitzo Fren IA
  • Interests
    smoking
  • Occupation
    ?whats that?
  1. Rotate the spring 180 degrees.
  2. Try tapping on the starter solenoid. They can get stuck.
  3. I have a lot if seat belts. What do you need? They are black. I think, they are good for 68' 69 maybe 70 years. If anyone knows plz chime in. I will sell them for what I paid.
  4. Not sure..the battery was low and The starter solenoid was stuck so I think that is what brought the battery to zero volts. I banged on the solenoid to disengage and everything seems normal again. Afterwards, I did the checks as described above and those were within limits. So right now I don't think I can troubleshoot until the problems pops up again. I talked to an auto electric dude and he speculated that the capacitors in my radio amp can cause mysterious electrical draws like that. Anyway, thanks to all for the responses.
  5. Thnx for the advice. I'll start there. Is there a way to check the short without connecting the battery cables and risking minor explosion?
  6. A while back... I drove to a friends house and was sitting in the car listening to the radio with the engine off. I started to mess with the light dimmer and lost all power. I put a volt meter to the bat and it was totally discharged. I swapped out the battery and when I connected the cables...bam... Full arc weld short! Shock and oww I guessed it had something to do with the light switch and disconnected it and pulled the light switch off to look for burnt wires and terminals. Nothing looked smoked, so I left the light switch disconnected and reconnected the battery terminals. I got power back and got the car home. I carefully checked the light switch for signs of damage and found nothing, I put the switch back in after some troubleshooting and the car worked normally for the next year. The other day I went to start the car, the battery was low and after the second crank attempt, I lost all power...this brought back bad memories of shock and oww. The battery was totally discharged again. I disconnected the light switch but still have a short when the cables are placed on the battery. Now I'm thinking that it may be the ignition switch or the starter relay. With the battery disconnected I have continuity between positive side of starter relay and ground..I don't think it should be that way. All original wire harness with a few mods... Bypassed resistor wire for pertronix, tapped into some blue black wires for power to radio and amp, tapped into ignition switch for alternate 12v power to instrument cluster circuit board. Any ideas.....thanks
  7. My 2cents...put the hood on first and gap the cowl, start from the front. Line up your fenders to the hood and work you way back to the rear quarters. The gaps on one side of the car might not be the same as the other side, but it is less noticeable than the fenders and hood not matching. If you want the gaps on both sides to match then you will have to build out one of the rear quarters to make it work.
  8. I've got a full set of rear belts in black. Do you still need them?
  9. How about checking the timing. And I don't think 210 is hot, a 195 thermo is what's suppose to be in it.
  10. You can buy the 24" HE 3 core from NPD (or where ever) along with the upper lower mount brackets and no mods are required. They also had a chart that specified the correct shroud for what ever radiator you choose. The lower mount brackets were not manufactured correctly and I had to modify them, but that was a few years ago and they may have changed the design.
  11. I think the end of the rod that connects to the handle is threaded. You might be able to adjust the throw that way.
  12. 351w stock. Flat tappet. My engine builder told me to use zinc additive for break in. Do I need to keep using this stuff forever? Thnx
  13. I have replaced mine twice. The first time: I just clamped the felt to the door then drilled holes for rivets. The second time: I clamped the felt to the door(IIRC the felt had per drilled holes for the staples and they lined up with the original door holes or I may have used a pick and drill to make new holes for the staples) then I push the staple thru and bent them over.
  14. Thanks for the replies. I don't mean to be an anarchist but after I win the lottery I'm gonna buy an AAR cuda and park it next to the stang....love that car!
×
×
  • Create New...