JayEstes

I happen to have everything off and am actively restoring this area now. I've attached some pics of mine - still in relatively ok shape. Mine had a lot of rust right in the middle (brought on probably mostly by Fords' overuse of spot-welding lap-joints - which actually encourages rust development). pics 1, 2 & 3 are from wheel well side, camera progressively lower (looking more upwards) in each shot. Last shot is from directly overhead (looking down) -I've already ground out a fair amount of the rust in the apron above this tray. Your pics also show the bolt on tray (goes on engine side) - that is easily replaced for less than $20. The bolt on tray is not pictured in my shots. The support tray is an original part. They were welded in place. I think separating this part from the apron would be pretty tough. Interesting that the CJ pony repro doesn't have the welded on square nuts like the original. I think it would be a bear to hold a nut underneath this plate while loosening from engine compartment.... The mansfield repro has it (or equivalent tho) Don't really know about replacing the apron with engine in place - seems like it would be really hard to do that though.... Good luck! Jay

Well, Just saw this post. If it helps, I have my original springs out right now, and I set them up and measured them. They measure just under 17in (about 16 3/4 in). These are 43yo ones. I'm not sure if I believe these things really "sag" or get shorter over time. They might, but I have yet to see any real evidence of that. Anyway - if yours are longer than 17in, I'd suspect they are wrong. (NO idea why this thing turns my pics sideways)

Don't have the same problem, but you know, we recently acquired a 71. That car does not have the shelby drop, but the guy put 235/60/R15's up front! Wide tires for these cars! Too wide. It was having rubbing issues on the fender wells. While I ws trying to figure out how to handle this with buying new mag wheels and tires, I found the following: http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-1285-Spring-Booster/dp/B000932O6G/ref=dp_cp_ob_auto_title_3 I actually bought some of these. They are super cheap, easy to install, and will raise your ride height some. The extra height can help with clearance. That said, I did NOT install them. WHat happened was I took it to be aligned, wound up getting new strut bushing, new LCAs, new shocks, and new coil perches. With a new alignment, I found out that my rubbing issues were now gone - the car sat significantly higher, so I had no need of them. I'm just telling you that because, I don't really know how these spacers would work in real life. It would effectively remove a single coils worth of spring (making it a bit stiffer), and I have no idea if it would stay in place. But, it's so cheap and easy, it might make an acceptable solution. Just throwing that out there. It might be easier than shims...

Mach1rider is speaking from the best position here. That's the only person I have heard that replaced only that time and "ride quality improved greatly". So- thats first person from someone who would know. Everyone's budget is different. I convinced myself that I was ok with the original style given the cost savings, others might figure it out differently. I'm ok with the stock repro stuff, but you gotta be aware I may not know what I am missing! :-)

Looks like you found your problem, but was interested to find a sort of parallel story on the 71-73 stand site that had a different outcome: http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-temp-climbs-to-230

You can just buy replacement perches for about $25/side. I had the front end on our 71 reworked, and we put those in and it drives great. I have a hard time believing that the friction in that little joint (given that the angle change is probably not more than +/-20deg rotation, and the loads it is under are HUGE - totally swamping the friction loads), is going to make much of any kind of a difference in handling. Obviously, the joint will rotate more freely, but really, now... how big of a deal can that be? I know that I have a tendency to "need to believe" in something that I spend a lot of money for, and I have to wonder if a daily driver needs the 3.5x cost bogey. In my case I haven't tried the roller perches, so I can't compare. But, I can tell you the cheap replacement perches work just great. Jay

This thread is very interesting. With a non-boss 302 coupe, I am wondering if the mod can be made to improve the rear axle stability. It seems to hop more than I would like - particularly with bumps that hit both wheels (pavement seams, for instance). I am wondering if this staggered shock configuration would help with that. Perhaps also the sway braces would help quite a bit. The "sanco" link above from Raven was great. Just wish I could understand the pics / installation better...

love the powder coat option. I even have a buddy who knows someone who can do this. Thanks for reminding me- might be a great way to proceed with this! Jay

Guys, Ive for the suspension broken all the way down, brake system is out and I am refurbishing the calipers. I've got them all cleaned up and wire brushed. Question is should I paint these? I'm wondering if I should paint them standard ford blue or black, or leave them natural? I know they will rust some if I do nothing, so I'd prefer to get them in best possible shape before they go back in. What's the right thing to do? I like to go original when I can, but I am not hard over about it - and I will change things when I think the look is better. Thanks for your inputs... Jay

That is really fantastic! Beautiful work. I hope my coupe looks as nice when I get there. The console is probably the best I have seen - love the additional gauges - everything fits perfect! If you are willing to share plans for that console, I'd sure be interested. Great work - It's gotta be hugely satisfying to fire that thing up and cruise in it. Congrats.

I had to put the LCA back in to stabilize it. Doesn't have to be in "for good", just something to hold the end of the strut rod. It was all normal threads, but a big old open end wrench like 1in or so, and it was tight. didn't need a cheater on mine. Once I got the rod out, next puzzle was getting the bushings out. Originals have an inner and and outer sleeve, the inner sleeve is put through the outer, and swelled into place - that was tough to get open. THEN- there is the big debate about how to put the replacement washers/bushings in. Do a search for that if you don't know what I am talking about...

but... mustangs are car ****!

OK, here is a challenge guys. I've taken the photo I have and numbered all the bolt holes (almost 50 holes!). The thinking is we can label all of the holes, and have a reference for what each is for, and we can verify the holes are stock or mod by using this simple map. I'm making the assertion that the fender shown is stock (based on the fact it has not been damaged, repaired are had mod work) and the VIN matches the VIN on the dash. Some are easy, some are not. The view is obviously from the external side of left front, with everything removed. Help me get the wording for each correct, so it's clear what we are looking at. here is an obvious start: 22) Fwd Upper Control Arm (UCA) mounting hole in shock tower 23) Aft Upper Control Arm (UCA) mounting hole in shock tower Any show-offs out there can name all of them??? Thanks, Jay PS. if this exists somewhere out in the internet, please just point me there now, and save us all time...

Hey JT- Thanks, I was pretty thrilled with how the photo looked. It actually came out better than I was expecting. As for the holes, I will say this- the fender is original. The VIN stamp matches the other fender and the dash VIN. There have been no accidents to this area, and no major repairs. I am I believe the third owner (my uncle being the second, and I acquired from him in 1980) I drove it for 10 yrs, and the poor thing has been garaged for 20). So the fender is original. I recently tore into it and began the restore, and there were no mods for unique items or aftermarket things, SO - I believe the fender is very close if not identical to original. At this point it would be nice to be able to go back and label what each hole is for, but I don't think I can. (Hmm, if I numbered them, I wonder how many people on this forum could label??? That would make a GREAT reference for us restorers!) Anyway, you cant go TOO wrong using this fender. It's had no major damage, repair, or aftermarket add, so it should be a very good reference for that! Jay

Someone on here (or another forum) has done just that. Get a thin mirror and glue it right on the surface of the old one. Report was excellent, and you couldn't tell, but YMMV...

Thanks guys, Thats several thumbs up for 3M, and a worry on the bed liner. Think I'll go get me some 3M. Can anyone tell me if it's good to go right on the bare primer? anything else I need to do to prep for the 3M? Thanks for your thoughts! If anyone else has some - leave them please. Collectively, you guys are genius! Jay PS - Shelby: I think the "floating frame effect" is due to the fact that that visible jack stand is a "safety jack-stand", just there in case the real one (off to the right and further back in the photo) gets kicked out. So no weight on the visible one! The photo technique though worked REALLY well for getting at details on a dark surface (and showing nothing else). I think it's actually easier to see the detail in that pic than just walking up to it in the shop now!

I've finally completed the cleaning/prep for the DS front wheel well and got the first good coat of primer on there. I'm using black primer so I was having trouble getting a good photo (to show off). So, i set my "good camera" (Canon XTi) for a 5sec shutter speed, turned off the shop lights, tripped the shutter, and while the shutter was open, I "painted" the wheel well with my LED wand light back and forth. The pic came out great! Much to my surprise. Anyway, proud of this little accomplishment- the wheel well was a big mess when I got in there (fortunately I didn't really have any rust issues to deal with except in the trough at the bottom of that shock tower). OK- so on to the question: How best to protect this area from future rust/corrosion? I've had the idea I could: 1) paint with semi-gloss enamel - couple of really good coats, and leave it 2) same as 1) except add spray application truck bed liner (black) 3) apply truck bed liner directly to primer So, what do you guys think? What are your general thoughts on truck bed liner in a wheel well? Any thoughts on issues with using it I haven't thought of? I love the toughness of this material, and the fact that it also seals some lap-joint welds, and provides some sound dampening characteristics. Give me your opinions on my options here. Thanks in advance. Jay

you know, if you want to pop the pistons without the explosive force of air (and don't mind some cleanup), I got a cheap tube of grease for my grease gun, and threaded the grease gun into the brake fluid inlet (threads happened to match). Couple dozen pumps of the gun, and the piston comes out nice and slow. Of course, then you've got a big ole glop of grease to clean out/throw away. It's more gentle, but takes longer and needs some cleanup. Easy to do though. I'd really recommend replacing all the rubber - it's like $5 or something.... Jay

Hey all- I have tons of nuts bolts washers as I am going thru the restore, and I am curious what the best way to clean them, and shine them up is? I know you can wire brush, use thinner etc, but some are really small. Seems to me I could use some kind of tumbler I could put them in with solvent, and let them tumble for a while with some media that would get them good as new. Do any of you guys do anything like that? Thanks for any suggestions. Jay

Any chance that thing is related to the seats, or how they attach to the car? Also wondering about brackets that hold the ends of the steel dash. Just above the vents on the kick panels up front? Just guessing. I think most of us naturally want to think exterior parts, but I'm guessing it's interior.... How big is it really? We may be being fooled by size in the picture....

The kits are really great, but lets face it, if you are on a budget, they might not feel the greatest on your pocket ($300-$500). Here some thoughts, looking at the pic above (some guessing involved). The UCA pic is a 4 bolt ball joint. I suspect that joint is gone, as the boot which holds the grease is gone. But you can replace the ball joint for ~$25 (maybe less if you shop around): http://www.laurelmountainmustang.com/products/65-73-4-bolt-upper-ball-joint http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQFordQQMustangQQMoogQQBall_JointQQ19651969QQMOK8036.html?apwcid=P1135867996W43b3f85c7ab9e&apwid49zfAv8 On the UCA, it's very hard to know the condition of the rotation point where it mounts to the shock tower. I thought mine were good until they were off the car AND I disassembled the rotation nuts from the sides of the UCA. Then I found that the threads which fasten the nuts to the UCA were worn out, and could no longer be tightened. But... You could just go grease the UCA mounts really well, there are no rubber boots on that joint, & replace the ball joint, live with the spring perch as is (maybe a touch of oil to help it move), and see how it goes. Total UCA cost less $30/side. The tie-rod to spindle joint looks like it might be ok. Just clean it up and grease it good, the boot looks to still be usable from what I can see. (no cost) The centerlink joint boot looks shot, so replace the boot and grease it (<$10) The sway bar is a really cheap fix. both end link bushing kit for $10 (includes bushings, bolt, washers). Another $10 will replace the rubber bushings on the vehicle frame (but these don't wear as much as the others. take the sway bar completely off, wire brush it, and even paint it, then $20 worth of kits and it's brand new. http://stang-aholics.com/ShowItem/107073%2068-73%20Sway%20Bar%20End%20Link%20Kit.aspx You will probably need new LCA's these take a lot and the ball-joint is usually made as a part of the arm (riveted on). about $35 for each. Point is, you could fix a LOT of that for not that much money ($150 maybe for all). It gets you out of having to do the shelby-drop (only template cost), the spring perches ($25/side), and upper UCA arms (all new about $60/side). You should do those 3 together whenever you do go in that deep. Just thoughts. See what you think. Jay

Finally - a stance that looks like it has some muscle! So many folks these days want to cut coils off and lower these cars to where the wheels are up in the fenders. That coupe looks like it has a very healthy stance. Love the black wheels too. very nice. Still waiting on the answer on those 1/4 window chrome accents. Mine need to be replaced too..... J