rancherohandler

Find what you like to do and be the best you can at it and you will be fine, machinist, fabricator, welder, what ever , if you like to do it and you can make yourself or someone else money at what you do than you will be able to work. The people who are the richest in the US are small buiseness owners, by far. Don't have to have a colledge degree, just be better at what ever the the rest, and people will find you. Fordrevhead has it right, you only can learn so much in school, some day you will go out and figure out what you haven't learned and a trade skill is somthing you can take anywhere. I have been a fabricator for 30 years, no schooling in it just learned as I worked and can make anything I set my mind to, can machine, weld , fab, design, engineer anything, and that can be used anywhere in the US. I firmly believe weather you work for your self or someone else if you are able to make someone money at what you do you will allways be working and won't have to rely on the government for 99 weeks to get your money.

With leaf springs you won't need a watts link, the spring does not need any thing to keep them centered. For the leaf spring the best thing you can do is change the front bushing to a harded one and change the shackles to ones that are stronger like dr gas shackles. If you change the rear suspension to somthing other than leaf go with a 3 link or parrell 4 link, don't change to a triangulated 4 link like in fox body mustangs, they induce bind in the rear suspension, thats how the work, and that hurts handling.A good set rear leaf will handle better than a triangulated 4 link, but not as good as a 3 link. Once you fixed the bushings and shackles just add good shocks and a sway bar and thats it.

Also flowmasters drone badly, there are other mufflers that don't sound like that.

Hey did the german cars have speedos that measured in kilo's . Have a stock 200 speedo that I was told was in kilomiters,just never new for sure.

Watch your spring rates, and don't use anything but the stock type bushing in the suspension. A lexas is smooth, not harsh sticking with the stock stuff is probably your best bet. Don't get crazy with the tires, your first shock absorber is the tire, get a good radial like a bfg and keep a tall side wall, won't be the best handler but will ride smoother.

No , a panhard bar is for axle location, with leaf spring you don't need any more to keep the axle in its place. A sway bar is best , along with good shocks and bushings. One weak point on the mustang is the shakels, they can flex if they are pushed hard, if you check out Dr Gas's website he used to have billet alum shakels they are very stiff and work great, have a set on my sons 65. Remember to size the rear to the front on the sway bar, to much in the rear and the front looses traction, it is a balance of spring, shock, sway bar and weight bias.

Lincoln versailes or a granada has an rear that will fit perfect, good luck finding one, are you looking for a rear end that is done. I am finishing a granada 9 inch , with a 3.25 bearing housing, traction loc dif, aluminum daytona pinion support , 31 spline currie axles, and lincoln mark vii disc brakes. Housing has been powdercoated gloss black, and will have pics this weekend if you are interested.

You can get a traction lok for the 8 inch, but why, lots of 9 inch mustang rears out there spend the money on a 9 inch, might be about the same price and it will last longer and be that much stronger.

NO on the outside they are just the same. If you stroke it remember that you will be pulling more air and if the heads are not inproved on then it will just run out of air sooner and be a touq motor that might stop reving at about 5000 or so. Plan the entire engine so you get the most out of your money, make a budjet with the entire engine you want and spend the money only once, you will be happier and ahead of the game in the end.

I have a set of 31 spline axles out of a 69 boss 302 if you are interested.

For 2300.00 I wouldnt buy it, I would go with a manifold efi, msd says it will be availible after the first of the year, but for 2300.00 who cares.

It all depends what you are doing with it. 600 plus hp should look at a N case, lots of drag lauchers N case with daytona pinion support, street car less than 500 hp or so accational tack days without slick and tha stock center diff should be fine. Which ever you go with if it is the stock style diff case change out the crush spacer for a solid spacer and set it up that way, for less than 100 dollars add an iron or aluminum daytona pinion housing and with the solid spacer it should handle most of what you want for the street. If you change over to the daytona support do it now so you only buy the bearings once.

I would go with the 4 inch stroke, rod to stroke ration not the best, but if it isn't going to see a whole lot of milage you will be ok. With a 9.5 deck, 5.955 rod you will need a piston with a pin hight of 1.55.the crank should be fine as long as you stay below 7000 rpms.Shoot for a zero deck with the piston and a stock type head gasket, ou will be adding 50 cubes and about 75 horse with this setup.

Not sure if they still have them but promotorsports used to make a shock tower reenforing kit, it will do the job and make the whole front of the car stiffer. I might have one , just have to see if it is complete.

Just had a 9 inch and 2 axle/caliper mounting brkts powercoated for 120.00, that blasting, masking and painting , turned out great, just wish I didn't need to sell in it looks so good.