cavboy78

Buddha, were the guys with issues running a newer saginaw pump or the original pump?

I installed the borgeson box and saginaw pump on mine and would highly recommend. The return to center issue is a result of needing more positive caster. Once I got that dialed in, I have no issues. GW even sells UCAs now that add in 3 degrees of caster. Also noteworthy, the aftermarket columns (ididit/flaming river) will apparently not work with the box. D/S header clearance is also a little tighter since the box is a little bigger in some areas than the original one. I originally had factory p/s and nothing felt better than yanking out all those leaky hoses, ram, and the stupid control valve! The Borgeson box definitely cleaned up the engine bay and I'll never look back...

I installed the borgeson box and saginaw pump on mine and would highly recommend. The return to center issue is a result of needing more positive caster. Once I got that dialed in, I have no issues. GW even sells UCAs now that add in 3 degrees of caster. Also noteworthy, the aftermarket columns (ididit/flaming river) will apparently not work with the box. D/S header clearance is also a little tighter since the box is a little bigger in some areas than the original one. I originally had factory p/s and nothing felt better than yanking out all those leaky hoses, ram, and the stupid control valve! The Borgeson box definitely cleaned up the engine bay and I'll never look back...

SM69Mach, you beat me to it! right on. What did that run you out of curiosity? I also hate wiring but thought it would be a good leanring opportunity.

SM69Mach, you beat me to it! right on. What did that run you out of curiosity? I also hate wiring but thought it would be a good leanring opportunity.

good timing on this thread. I'm just starting to do the research myself and found the the right harness depends on where you are going with your build. A stock-type harness is good for a stock restoration, but if you're looking at building more of a restomod, it seems that AAW and Painless are worth a look. I know painless has additional circuits for things such as electric fans, headlight relays, electrical fuel pump, etc... This is what ultimately led me to looking at replacing the harness instead of hacking up the one I have. I plan on adding a TB EFI, electric fans, new gauge cluster, and a trunk mounted battery in the near future. I'll prob go Painless.

good timing on this thread. I'm just starting to do the research myself and found the the right harness depends on where you are going with your build. A stock-type harness is good for a stock restoration, but if you're looking at building more of a restomod, it seems that AAW and Painless are worth a look. I know painless has additional circuits for things such as electric fans, headlight relays, electrical fuel pump, etc... This is what ultimately led me to looking at replacing the harness instead of hacking up the one I have. I plan on adding a TB EFI, electric fans, new gauge cluster, and a trunk mounted battery in the near future. I'll prob go Painless.

Bruce, Had I known we could have swapped doors! bolt-in on d/s and glue in on p/s... OP, FWIW, I swapped to bolt in. It did require some finesse (or not) to get things to line up as well as the original. Looking back, glad i swapped.

I used the flowmaster Super 44 kit from CJ pony. Fitment was spot on and the turndowns tuck up nice. Also, I have the FPA longtubes for a 351w.

Check out speedhut too. You can customize to your liking and they can look pretty similiar to originals if you build them that way. Also includes the option for brights and blinkers on the speedo to clean up the install with an original style cluster.

I have a 351w with the airgap intake and a 750 double pumper. I also used a dropped base filter and it just fits, 1.5" IIRC. I also have the ron morris lowering engine mounts to help. If you don't need the vacuum port, then just plug it. Your engine specs and intended use will determine if you will benefit from the air gap or not.

Great looking stance! I'm working on getting that low, just not quite there yet. I'm not the smartest suspension guy, but I feel if you are going to run that low, a coil over conversion in the front would help tremendously. Not only are you increasing your coil and shock length (which should improve ride quality), but there are a lot of options in coils once you go to that kind of set up. This includes rates, lengths, and ability to preload the coil. That coupled with a set of QA-1s that allow you to fine tune your compression and rebound should get you closer to what you want out of your ride. I just find that once you start deviating this much from the factory specs, factory hardware does not produce the desired outcome. Rambling thougts from a mad man...

I was unable to get shorties designed for a 289/302 block to fit on my 351w. They did not tuck in tight enough against the block and hit the front framerails on both sides. The JBAs were the only decent option i found for shorties/mids on the 351w. That being said, I went with the FPAs for a little more money and now i got my longtubes. either one is a great option.

Evil, I'm currently in the army and do move around quite a bit. Last job i was at 6600' and am currently at 200'. I drive the car as much as I can and I personally want the increased drivability of EFI...especially when you're leaving for work at 0430 on a chilly morning. Plus, I am deployed in afghanistan right now. Afghanistan=No income taxes=$$ for EFI! OP, Not sure what you're driving style is, but i love nothing more than doing what my grandfather called, "blowing out the carbon"...all the way to 6100 RPMs. Having an engine that runs out of steam early is no fun. With your heads, I would recommend the air gap over the performer rpm. If you're worried about hood clearance, you can use lowering engine mounts (RMP, etc...). My .02.

Evil, Chassis dyno is on my to-do list. I'm contemplating doing a chassis run as it currently sits...then put in the fast or MSD atomic efi...then another dyno run.

I think they flow a little less than AFR 185s on intake, but a little more on exhaust. rhs 200 flow data .200 .300. .400 .500 .600 .700 119 172 216 244 264 275 104 140 174 193 203 209

i have a 351w (F4TE block), stock stroke, with the rpm air gap intake and rhs 200 heads. I used the CC XE274HR and it made around 435/430 on engine dyno. smooth enough idle for daily driving but still has a nice lope to it. details in the thread below. http://www.1969stang.com/mustang/forum/showthread.php?t=11592&highlight=heads+power

You've got some fun options with that six too! Don't write it off just yet... http://www.classicinlines.com/Home.asp www.fordsix.com

I have a one wire setup from PA performance and it was wired the way you describe...backwards from factory.

well, hot damn...something to order now! It's probably been about 2 years since i last checked. Thanks for the heads up Glenn.

yep. left of the "kit" on the back end of borgeson. I haven't found anyone that makes a bracket.

found it... http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/1403_car_crafts_giant_efi_test/

wasn't there an article in hot rod or car craft within the last three months that does a comparison article? I thought it was a pretty good article highlighting the pros/cons of each and a recommendation based on the build, use, and your expertise with tuning.

i asked for them to produce a borgeson p/s bracket...but no joy.

I have the v belt kit with crank and water pump pulley and bracket for the alternator on my 351w. Looks great, high quality...would absolutely recommend.