Lemon Owner

You firstly need to check whether the play is in the steering box itself or in the power steering control valve. There is very little stress on the steering box so most likely the play is in the control valve. With the engine running get someone in the car to swing the steering from left to right just enough to take up the slack. Watch the rag joint, pitman arm and control valve to see where the movement is.

Well there is a saying that if you want a good mustang you will only find them in Australia. :lol:

I think you need this clip.... http://www.cjponyparts.com/scott-drake-door-latch-rod-retainer-1967-1973/p/HW1554/ Or these rods.... http://www.cjponyparts.com/lh-door-lock-rod-set-1969-1970/p/DLR3L/

I think the lack of responses may have to do with a lack of understanding at least from my part. But as mach1 rider said it sounds like you may have the spring incorrectly mounted or upside down completely. Something just doesn't add up and a picture says a thousand words.

I installed a new switch on mine but I am not sure what manufacturer it was. It took a rediculous ammount of pressure to blow so I turned it around and put it in backwards. Not the best way but now it functions. But IMHO they are a piece of crap and like most of the repro stuff for these cars should never be sold for any ammount of money.

I am not old enough to see what these cars were like when they were first released but buckeye your sure making it easy for me to get an idea. As always fantastic work!

Nice buying for your first crack at a classic. It will give you plenty to do but still give you a chance to drive and enjoy it.

X2 on selling it. For a $1000 more you could find a clean body that won't need $2000 in replacement panels+labor.

No problem, it is a great resource. And who said that the internet was just for ****. :biggrin:

If I understand correctly it currently has a 600 Edelbrock that is running properly? If so then I would leave it as is because the 500 will make little difference other than making your wallet lighter.

Some v8 muzzys came with an 8" like mine. Usually the poverty pack cars. :biggrin:

Most of what you need can be found here. http://www.mustang-s.com/engines/engine_351w.php

Yea they are easy compared to the new ones. But I gotta tell ya, I pulled the dash out of my 74 panel van two months ago and I can't remember where a damn thing goes now. I think I will have a few nuts and bolts left over. lol

Nice looking bit of timber. I would have said camphor laurel being where you live but it looks a little too good for that? Looks like you're better with the gun than me, you shouldn't have a problem laying down some colour on the stang. The concept paints gloss black 2k is a little too gaudy looking for my liking so I am going to paint the engine bay red like the rest of the car. But I will paint all the panels and put it back together and driving before I do the engine bay completely. I will just paint where I have cut out the rust at the cowl for now. The engine bay isn't too bad and won't take more than a day or two. I want to rebuild the engine anyway so I will do it when it is out.

Yes, heaps of room to remove the plugs and the header bolts, for a change.

Pulling the car apart is easy. Everyone here has experience with that. It is getting the bastard back together that trips us up. :blink:

Looks like you have been a busy man. But with the damn weather the way it has been I know why not much is happening. I have waited the last two weekends so I could finally seal the cowl/dash after I cut both the vents out and replaced them. The weather cleared up enough so I managed to get some painting done sunday. Now I am waiting for my vision to return from the shine from that 2K gloss black! Now I have to paint the engine bay to match!

Like LSG said ethanol is not the problem. Ethanol is just alcohol which is a very good preservative if my liver tells me correctly. I always take my car to fill up at a particular gas station that I know runs the 10%. My car seems to like it, but when I go to others that don't add ethanol it does not seem to run as well.

I tried to get pics from below but as usual not enough light for my phone camera. Here are the pics from above.

Shame it wasn't an easy fix. Good luck, hopefully the heat shield will do the trick.

I find it unlikely that timing will make much difference. I really think you need to get an accurate reading before you adjust the timing. Timing settings are very individual to engines and fuel used. You can have 20 degrees of initial timing and it will have much more down low torque. You can then recurve the dizzy to a max of 36 degrees as said earlier all out by 3000rpm. One way I read in a engine mag once was to advance the timing until the engine had trouble cranking then back it off a little. Check there is no pinging and that was a pretty good start.

Buckeye is correct about the slightly lower deck height with my recent 69 351w engine rebuild. Had to machine down the later model pistons to fit the block.

I would say they would make life alot harder if you fit them before installing the engine. Having said that I have never tried to fit the engine with headers attached.

I have a cleveland that does the same thing, so like everyone said I changed it out for a high torque starter. Still won't f$%ken start properly! Check the cables first, alot cheaper. Oh yea, I fixed my mach1 hot starting issue, I tightened the negative battery terminal properly. :001_tongue:

It sounds like you air bleeds are blocked. I have a similar problem with my AFB that has been sitting for a few years and when I removed the venturi thingies they were blocked. Cleaned em out and now it runs much better. If you can be bothered try to give that old carb a good clean and see how it goes before you cough up for a new one. Great to hear you got her going again!