Lemon Owner

Yes it is a spacer and may be possibly the issue here perhaps? I do not know enough about flywheels to starter combination to comment further other than it may be the issue.

+4 on the well wishes. As much as we complain about the health system here in OZ when things are serious they don't muck about.

Actually ford starters do have shims. I have a shim on my 302 cleveland with 4sp toploader. However not sure that this is the problem here.

That handle is bent terribly. To fix it you just ask your friends, or as I did my wife to release the hand brake. The foot pedal snaps back up into the released position and belts your fingers onto the release handle. Hurts like hell or so my wife says. In my defence I did warn her not to release it by hand and to use her toes but she wouldn't listen. :w00t:

Your flywheel might be a little glazed which can cause a shudder. It might pay to scuff it up a little while you have it apart again.

Oh yea, mine was on the weekend. Brand new transmission nuetral start buckup light switch. The case split open so I had to delicately push the terminals into their place and clamp it back together properly, damn thing.

A little late in but I can tell you that hood will be fine. One trick you can do is put a piece of timber between the fender and the hood and flex the front of the hood down. See pic, this is a modern car and the timber is too long and not thick enough but you get the idea. This method is used on doors also to correct twists etc. Be careful not to put dents in the skin, you are just flexing the frame and the skin will flex evenly with it.

That's great advice, I will do that myself from now on.

They are not tight enough. When you think they are tight, tighten them some more. But be careful not to tighten them too much and strip the threads. :thumbup1: Working on cars is fun huh.:lol:

Good to see the car is going forward instead of backward. I was starting to get a little worried there. Does the epoxy convert the surface rust? If not I would invest in some rust converter. The stuff really does work and you can let in run into the seams where the paint can't go.

As Buckeye said why, oh god why would you use a brush after you have the car media blasted?

Cool good to know that it works. Now I just have to cough up the cash.

As said previously etch primers do not seal so rust can form underneath if left for over a month. So it sounds like epoxy is the go for your situation.

That's what I kinda figured. And when I stopped blasting for a minute to swap parts etc. all should catch up. And I don't mind ringing the neck of a $200 compressor, just not my $600 one.

Well that should make light work of the dust problem!!! I have been toying with the idea of buying a cheap $200 compressor and running it in tandem with my 12cfm to try to keep up with the sand blaster. There may be a problem of getting them both to kick in without one doing all the work, but I think it will pan out ok. Just have to spend $200 to find out! Oh yea, the supecheap blaster is on special for $115 but as I said it is a little small and ill designed.

I think you need to start the engine first. Run a wire from the + battery to the + coil and crank the engine, just basicall hot wire it. If it still does not start you can count out the ignition switch and associated wiring. Then you can look at points, coil, condensor etc. If it does start then you know it has something to do with the ignition wiring.

x2 did it a week ago.

The thing sand blasters need is air, and lots of it, which is why it is so expensive because you need a huge compressor. A 16cfm compressor will be slow going and you will ring its neck doing it. I have worked with a few powdercoating/sandblasting firms and they all have HUGE compressors. Having said that it would pay to get a pressure blaster and a cabinet. http://radum.com.au/catalog/ have the cabinets etc. and they are fairly reasonably priced. I bought the little supercheap blasting cabinet on special for $110 and it isn't too bad. But in hind sight I would rather have spent another couple of hundred on a decent one. And don't forget with the cabinet you need to hook up a vaccum cleaner to it, so there is an extra cost.

Alternatively remove one of the plug leads from say the number five plug. Have someone wind the engine over while you hold the lead about 1/8th of an inch from the plug tip or suitable engine ground. If you see a spark jump you have spark, if you see a spark and get zapped you have a leaking plug lead and spark. :clown: Either way it will tell you what you need.

I think with all the mods you are doing with the pertronix, headers and intake the next logical step would be a mild to medium cam. It is cheap at $200 (with new lifters and chain), coupled with the other mods probably deliver another 20hp. Bang for buck it desn't get much cheaper than that!

Good idea to toss the project in favour of one already done, especially if there is no real family attachement to it. There is nothing worse than talking to friends about how good your car will be when it is finished. I would rather rock on up in a car that is finished and show them how great it is. If you are concerned that this 70 mach is a little expensive then you probably are just not that into it. Maybe you should just bide your time until the right car comes along.

There must be a blockage somewhere or you are not bleeding the brakes correctly.

The distribution block looks fine, but it has no proportioning valve so it will not balance the brakes properly from front to rear. If your booster came apart after you rebuilt it then you did not put it back together correctly. If it is brand new then send it back for repair or replacement. Luckily it happened now and not while you are driving. Did you bench bleed the master cylinder so that fluid came out of both the front and rear system? If yes then you have a blockage most probably in the rear flexible hose at the diff. They are notorious for swelling closed.

I have purchased a CSRP kit with the kelsey 4 piston set up and I hate them. The braking performance is not as good as my factory mach1 setup which is to say ordinary at best. The master cylinder and booster is a PIA to fit because they tried to make it bolt up to the factory drum firewall holes. They supply an adjustable prop valve which is a PIA to fit. I ended up using a later fixed disc drum prop valve with the drum prop valve mounting bracket to keep it in the factory location. With the ability of hindsight I would fit a factory style set up with the prop valve I retro fitted. There will be a little more work in finding the parts and a little cutting and shutting the firewall but it is much much better.

With your pertronix installed run a wire from the positive battery to positive coil terminal. this will deliver constant 12 volts and bypass the ignition switch. If this allows your engine to run properly you know you have a voltage drop through the ignition. I found this out the hard way over the weekend when the lemon just flamed out and wouldn't start. I did as above and she started and drove it home. I replaced the ignition switch and now she seems back to her annoying self.