dsc2

This problem is because the PO did not replace the manual drum proportioning valve and pressure valve with the disc brake version.

Actually Moog is a Federal Mogul brand............. http://aftermarket.federalmogul.com/en-US/Pages/home.aspx I have been in a number of their plants around the globe. Production of aftermarket parts shifts based on economics, so you could have US made then next year production from off shore. Best to look at the box to see origen, since it has to say because of tariffs.

All consoles had the ashtray light. Same for the non-console cars, ashtray also had a light. Glove box, trunk, engine, under dash lights were all part of various visibilty groups ordered or options could ordered individually. Dealers could also install anything (and did), so lots of reasons for research if building a concours car.

Found this link on Youtube....... May help with all the questions about original appearance of our cars. Notice the sportroof models without front/rear spoilers and slats. It seems like everyone has added the Boss 302 front spoiler during restoration. For me I like seeing the less is more look, since it has really disappeared.

+1........... http://www.mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=92121GGR+01

The back plate should be (real) low gloss black. Most originals look to be flat but I think age fades it.

I would replace the upper and lower arms. Readily available and not that costly. As for alignment of the strut rod to LCA, you need a front end alignment shop to do that. Unless you have the proper equipment like a caster camber gauge. But basically the upper and lower ball joints need to align up and down / in and out.

If the strut rod support is slightly damaged probally not a big deal, the can hit high curbs causing light damage. But if the strut bushings are 45 yrs old that is a different story. The strut control the caster alignment, so play under load will move the wheel fore and aft. Ball joints cause camber issues which will be seen in tread wear.

How did you check those items? I assume stock suspension, when was it last rebuilt? What has been replaced?

I still have the original clock in my Grande working, although I mainly keep the power disconnected. Had to file the points because the pitting resulted in them sticking together, once. You really have to be careful and a little watch oil also helps keep things moving.

What vehicle are you racing? The 4 rivet was original for 69 Mustangs but the Ford service part was a 3 rivet design because it was stronger. You can buy repo 4 rivet designs but not sure if it overcomes the cracking issue.

+1 Voltage regulator has gone bad.

+1, it's only original once

I think you have to separate the customer service and part quality. I deal with NPD and some repro parts are crap others good. Which ones can change from time to time. Many times I ending "combining" the old and new part to make something acceptable. You have to also remember when Ford Service Parts were ready available some of them, like bumpers, where not the greatest quality either.

+1 on this method, but if the alternator is weak it will still have a magnetic field. I was fooled by that in the past. I agree load tester is a more reliable method but the OP sounded like he was looking for more a shade tree solution.