fordguy69

Start with your fuel filters, the one in the engine compartment and the sock in the tank, likely both of them are clogged. Also see if your carb has a screen at the inlet.

I used Global West on my 2 coupes. Very happy with them.

Tony, this is an incredibly timely post! I just got off the phone with the guy that makes the seat belts complaining about the exact same thing and that they aren't long enough when my wife drives with the seat all the way forward. Thanks for sharing, ordering a set now. Bill

Check with Scotty Johnston, a.k.a. The Mad Porter. http://reincarnation-automotive.com/contact_us He can spec you the right cam based entirely upon your combination and goals and have it custom ground for what you need. It's only slightly more expensive than an off the shelf grind but will outperform any catalog cam. He is over on 460ford.com and knows his stuff. It's important to work with someone that knows Fords and Clevelands especially. They have unique needs and the "right" cam can really wake up the performance. Going to be getting my roller spec'ed from him for my 545" build.

I am using zinc additives with synthetic oil. I think I read somewhere that they had reduced the zddp in rotella also! With the synthetics, I change it at 5K intervals.

Mustang Market pieces are outstanding. Perfect fit too.

I don't believe anyone makes a repop coupe decklid.

I had to trim the rubber seal on the flapper door in mine. I bought the whole new box assembly and the rubber seal was way too big. Even bent and broke the tabs on the new cables when I first tried to move them. Ah, the joy of repop parts.

I had to trim the rubber seal on the flapper door in mine. I bought the whole new box assembly and the rubber seal was way too big. Even bent and broke the tabs on the new cables when I first tried to move them. Ah, the joy of repop parts.

Detriot Lockers work great and I drove one for years on the street in Florida no less, lots of rain. Never had any problems. However they work better with automatics IMO, manuals tend to exacerbate the clicking, banging and quirky nature. I have a Truetrac in my current car and it works great. Very quiet and controlled. If you want the best of both worlds, strength of a D. Locker and manners of a Truetrac, look at the Wavetrac that Moser sells. Supposed to the best there is for a high horsepower street driver. But be prepared for some serious wallet depletion syndrome.

They usually put a large sweeping bend in them that unbends very easily by hand. Shouldn't need any tools to do it.

pm sent

Good news, thanks. I'll be ordering a couple.

I am on my third 69 with a 460. There are major differences with all the ways to do it. Crites Gen 1 puts the engine up high and somewhat forward. Hood clearance is a problem and nearly always requires a hole in the hood. Using the Tubular headers designed for this swap is a pain. They criss-cross the back tubes around the draglink and are a PITA. This works great in a drag only car, not so great on the street. Crites Gen 2 supposedly puts the engine lower and headers aren't so bad but I don't have any experience with them. MPG is what I have currently. Places the engine much lower and quite a bit forward, but greatly increases hood clearance. Torker 2 or RPM Air Gap will fit under the hood with no hole. Headers are still a PITA and clearance is very tight around the steering box and drag link. Forget power steering. I tried the Borgeson set up and it doesn't clear either. C6 works fine with all the set ups. I have a TKO 600 in mine and the MPG headers clear everything fine with the Quicktime bell and they leave lots of room for clutch linkage. I only have about 1000 miles on this one but I am pretty happy with the MPG setup. However another member on here had a bear of a time with their headers that I didn't, so obviously every car is different. My first two I didn't notch the shock towers but on this last one I did. I would recommend it. It makes things much easier. If I ever do another one, I would probably take the plunge and do a Mustang II front end or the Gateway strut conversion to get rid of even more shocktower. Once you drive a torque monster big block, it's hard to go back to the little motors. Not to mention that with a simple and relatively cheap stroker kit, you can stuff up to 557 ci with a stock block.

If money were no object, I would use the Detroit Speed stuff front and rear. Their stuff is extremely well engineered.

I use zinc additive in everything I own that doesn't have a roller cam in it. They have reduced the ZDDP so greatly in all oil that I don't feel comfortable without it. Way too many flat lobe issues to go without it.

Thanks for the suggestion Mike. Got a cam card from them today. And I guessed right. Duration at .050 is 236I 246E.

Check out CHI's 3V head. They combined the best parts of the 2v and 4v head and made an excellent head for the Cleveland. I can't remember if the exhaust is raised or not. All of the top performing Engine Masters competitors that used a Cleveland style head, have used the CHI's. Kaase even sells them and if Kaase sells them, they must be good. Kaase knows Fords and he don't sell no junk!

I have had to replace the shock towers in both of my 69's. Both of them have been used hard over the years and the towers were cracked, seams separated, and the one that saw the most drag strip time, the towers were so out of shape, the upper control arms had to be shimmed almost 1/2" on the front of both control arms just to get the alignment close. Replacing them isn't that bad but there are a lot of spot welds to drill out. Export braces and Monte Carlo bars help, but the design of the unibody buts a lot of stress on the towers.

Unfortunately I don't. Can't find the cam card and all the old pre-bankruptcy Crane catalogs and info seem to be scrubbed from the net. I thought nothing ever left the net??? The only info I could find was for an HIT -280, but extrapolating from those numbers, I would guess the .050 numbers for this one to be 236I, 246E. IIRC, we bought this cam for a 65 mustang with a 289 with 10.5 cr and ported Windsor heads with a Doug Nash 5-speed. I think it was the second biggest hydraulic cam they had for this motor at the time. Brother in law wrecked and sold the car before we changed the cam.

Need room in my garage sale: Koni SP-1 drag shocks front and rear 67-70 Mustang/Cougar barely used 150.00 fits stock front and rear suspension. Competition Engineering housing floaters with bottom plate for Ford shocks used 60.00 Fits up to 3” axle tubes and stock width Mustang leafs. Chassis Engineering double adjustable ladder bars used 125.00 1969/70 Mustang bolt on/weld on subframe connectors. used 75.00 Rear leaf springs, 69-70 Mustang, 428 CJ spec springs, stock ride height. Barely used 100.00 1969 –70 Coupe fiberglass deck lid, pin on. Stock style, no duck tail, fits stock quarter extensions. new 150.00 1969 Mustang 428CJ front coils new w/one full coil removed. 40.00 1969 Mustang 428CJ front coils used 40.00 9” third member used , 4.33 gears, 28 spline Detroit Locker, standard single rib case. 400.00 Crane Mechanical Flat Tappet 289-302-351W used .525”I/.549”E 280/290 Adv. Duration 242/252 Duration @.050 108 Centerline. 60.00 Crower Mechanical Flat Tappet 289-302-351W used .622”I/.629”E 310/316 Adv. Duration 276/278 Duration @.050 108 Centerline. 60.00 Crane Hydraulic Flat Tappet HIT 292-2-NC 289-302-351W new .544”I/.546”E 292/302 Adv. Duration 110 Centerline. 100.00 Crane Mechanical Flat Tappet 429/460 used .583”I/.603”E 292/302 Adv. Duration 256/266 Duration @.050 108 Centerline. 125.00 Edelbrock 1725 new in box. 289-302-351w mechanical fuel pump. 70.00 Mallory 3755101 Unilite distributor used 289/302 150.00 2 sets Crites Gen 1 frame mounts and engine mounts for 67-70 Mustang/Cougar with 429/460. New set 100.00 Used set 75.00 Weld Drag Lights Rear 15x8 drilled for screws. 3.5bs used 225.00/pr Moroso electric water pump drive motors, one new 55.00 w/new belt, one used 25.00 Electronics setup for bracket racing, used. MSD 6 #6400, MSD Softouch Rev Control #8738, MSD Two Step #8739, MSD RPM activated switch #8950, RPM module selector #8672, Autometer Pro Light #3240, Line Master single delay box. Set up to activate low rpm limiter when transbrake or line locks are activated, high side of two step for upper rpm limit, rpm activated switch utilizes the module selector to activate shift light/shift solenoid. Delay box holds transbrake or line locks for set delay time and holds low rpm limit of two step. Over 500.00 worth of electronics. 200.00 All prices DO NOT include shipping. I am in west central Florida 34602. email me at cattledogranch@bellsouth.net for more info or pictures. Thanks, Bill.

Hey LSEANN, what color is that coupe? Is that silver jade or something custom?

Mine has a 460 which is dimensionally the same as a 429 and I had to raise my tunnel 1.75 inches to get correct driveline angles with the TKO. That was with the MPG mounts that place the engine lower in the car. IMHO there is no way to get good angles without raising it. Thats with a 429/460. If you have a 428CJ, I have no idea. Totally different animal.

I am totally sold on Be Cools stuff. I used their biggest module for my 69 because I have always had cooling issues here in Florida. I LOVE this setup. Keeps my 460 at 170F when cruising, fans seldom kick on except when at a stop light for a long time, and when they do, it cools everything down quickly. I have been driving it around a lot here lately and it is seriously hot and humid right now, car has never gone over 205F and that was again, only at a stop light for a long time. Their stuff works.

Have you tried insulating your fuel lines? I covered my lines with this: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hsp-204009 Covered it all the way from the inner apron where the line comes in to the carb. That coupled with a small insulator gasket on my carb stopped my vapor lock. I am in Florida and have a 460 stuffed into mine with long tube headers. One of the reasons we are all having vapor lock issues now is the damn alcohol they put into the fuel. It's 10% in my area, some other areas are higher and the gubbermint is going to make it mandatory 15% soon. So the problems are only going to get worse. A carbed, mechanical fuel pump setup suffers the worst. The lower pressure in the lines coupled with the engine compartment heat causes the alcohol to boil very easily. I hate ethanol.