69StangRestomod

I have both that need recovering. Where are you located? email me: ptg.msme@ g m a i l . c o m

I have a set of Eddie Motorsport Billet hood hinges. BRAND NEW. Polished finish, fiberglass shocks. Only taken out of the box for inspection. $500 shipped, firm. If I can't sell em, I'll keep em. Saves you $100 bucks. I decided I'm not crazy on the polished look. The strut can be sold and steel hood one purchased (the fiberglass strut is more expensive). EMAIL ME! ptgaines90(at)g m a i l .com

A little history so you understand why I'm selling what I'm selling: I bought this car at a young age just in high school. I worked on it, mostly body stuff, through high school and community college days. I bought up several big ticket items as I had money, then I transferred to a university and had to shelf the ol' stang to save my grades. Now I'm plugged into a big boy job, just moved the mustang north with me, and I'm getting rid of things I don't need - be they original parts or things I bought and decided to go a different route. I prefer Sqaure Cash, but I'll PayPal if you insist. It is eons easier to text pictures rather than post. I'm not on this forum a whole lot, text questions to me pleaset: (830) seven-four-one 1969 Everything is negotiable, within reason, and prices DO NOT include shipping. I will ship on your dime, and I will make every effort to make it cost effective, but lots of these guys are heavy and big. I will also meet you within 20 miles of my home in Racine, WI BRAND NEW STUFF: Maier Racing Leaf Springs - $400 **Sale pending*** See http://www.maierracing.com/product/mustang-leaf-springs/ for the details. I have decided to go with a 4-link setup. They are dusty from sitting for 3 years, but brand new. Only bolted on to mock the read end for fitment. I'll include the poly-bushings and bolts CJ Pony Parts Door Skins - $130 (I bought the skins, then deiced to get dynacorn shells instead of the put the work into redoing the doors) Standard Door panels - $50 These came with the car, they are still in plastic, look good as new. Older/Original Stuff Shorty Headers for SBF (came off a 302) - $70 Not coated, but not rusty. Decided to go with a 408 Original Mach 1 High Backed Seats - $400 These are looking a little rough, they need to be reupholstered for sure. Came with the car. If noone picks them up, I may put the time into completely re-doing them and selling them as new. Original Coil springs - pay shipping (rounded up to the nearest $5) Anyone need these for concourse, mock ups, etc...? just lying around. HVAC Box, non-AC car - pay shipping (rounded up to the nearest $5) Crager SS (not good looking) and new, but old, Michelin tire - $10 no idea where this came from...good roller if you need one.

i did my subframe connectors with floors out and it was easy, never had any experience with them otherwise. I got my floors from MLM and was VERY pleased with the fit. pans, toe boards, and set risers. my TB's were fine so i left them alone. your TB's are rusted through right? I wouldnt mess with them at all if not. mentality of "gonna fix that while im there!" is never good with original vs repo metal IMO

17's. sorry, forgot that bit of info.

So I have been thinking and as popular as cobra R wheels are, I cant ever recall seeing them on a fastback. since oyu can pick them up for cheap (opposed to billet specialties.....), and proper backspacing for an 03, with a spacer, will gounder my car! everyone wins! now for oyu wonderful photoshop people: All the pics are for you to use what ever makes life easiest for you, not asking or all of them, just wanna make your life easier!

antena and strut rods are spoken for as of now

Well when you're building a hot rod ground pounder, no need for some stock items laying around the shop I found while cleaning. pay for shipping (round up to the nearest dollar...) and you can have em. show up at my front door (or really I'll meet you in SA, I'm there 3 or so times a week) and they are yours. if noone takes em, they go in the trash! be sure and email me dieseljesusfreak90@gmail.com I'm horrible at checking PMs only thing not pictured is the entire steering setup. gear box to outer tie rods, manual box it appears. I'd rather not ship it, but I will disassemble it and ship it for 30 bucks plus shipping.

I was told by Mike when I ordered my maiers about a month ago that the 165 vs 200 was the thickness of hte solid runner to the front, they both posses the same spring rate.

gimme til tmrw, we have a 69 with a 351 at the shop and are putting a new on in it, its an AC Delco part, i can get the part number though if noone chimes in here

this really isnt a chop request as much as an idea kicker. post up some pics of diverse paint jobs! pics you saved, pics you took, pics of your car I dont care! I'm still trying to decide just how to lay the luster on my fastback, I want to respect the classic style, but give it a flair of retro, I've got a few ideas, but just looking for some pictures of kick butt paint jobs. I'm not a copy cat fan, just want some inspiration!

do what I did....just do it! I bought my car when I was 14 (21 now....), bought a welder, read a book or two, and went to town. Metal is nice because if you REALLY fubar it, you can alway cut it out and re-do. only replace what needs to be replaced.. You can do it with common sense and time. just be sure to square the body up before you cut any part of the frame out. I bought a few sticks of 1 5/8" square tubing and braced everything before I would cut anything out. I think if oyu just start working on it, you'll be suprised what oyu can do. buy a cheap set of body hammers, welder, and metal and get after it!

do what I did....just do it! I bought my car when I was 14 (21 now....), bought a welder, read a book or two, and went to town. Metal is nice because if you REALLY fubar it, you can alway cut it out and re-do. only replace what needs to be replaced.. You can do it with common sense and time. just be sure to square the body up before you cut any part of the frame out. I bought a few sticks of 1 5/8" square tubing and braced everything before I would cut anything out. I think if oyu just start working on it, you'll be suprised what oyu can do. buy a cheap set of body hammers, welder, and metal and get after it!

yeah i loved em, and I was all of 17 when i did it, so a monkey should be able to do it! LOL If memory serves me right you weld a tube into the hinge, drive the bushings in, and slide the insert in. one evening did all four.

yeah i loved em, and I was all of 17 when i did it, so a monkey should be able to do it! LOL If memory serves me right you weld a tube into the hinge, drive the bushings in, and slide the insert in. one evening did all four.

I used these: http://www.mustangsteve.com/hinge.html it was a snap to do, and a heck of a lot cheaper than new! obviously not for concourse resto's, but I put the grease zerks on the bottom so you cant even see them.

I used these: http://www.mustangsteve.com/hinge.html it was a snap to do, and a heck of a lot cheaper than new! obviously not for concourse resto's, but I put the grease zerks on the bottom so you cant even see them.

sent an email, would love to see that go through!

lookin awesome! I cant wait to see the finished product

proper tc installation is as follows: you slide it on the splines and push it in while you spin the cookies out of it! noone has really stated that I realized, it should jump back intot he tranny once or twice. Ive installed alot of auato trannies and this is the only way to get hte TC in properly.

later model mustang seats bolt right in, dont recall the years though

I just ordered leafs from Maeir racing, and mike said you can have up to 2 inches of deflection with rubber bushings, but if oyu think about it, all that deflection is coming from the leaf springs, and I would think you would be fine. get it assembled take it for a test drive, you;ll know by looking at the inside of the tire is it rubbing LOL

if I get rear ended that bad in my mustang I may want to die LOL

yellow jackets ran me away from my car today :/ since all I have is a shell they keep coming and starting nest in the nooks and crannies, when I find them in the morning/afternoon its useless to try and kill em, cause the scavengers come and go from the nest all day...so Im dead in the water til dark and can kill all those suckers! anyone have this problem? any advice on how to keep them at bay? I thought about putting moth balls in jars all around my car and seeing if that would keep them away.

that looks like I could build on for 50 bucks in a day......