mattwash08

Not sure what the compression reading were, I was getting the info relayed to me from my father since Ive been away at school. Motor was never really revved past 5500rpm I dont think. Motor may have gotten a little warm after it started running really rough I think... but it never overheated. I was in the middle of a 40 mile drive at the time so I limped it home. It seems to start up alright, but as soon as it harms up t runs very very rough

Motor on my 69 mustang fastback took a crap. Started running really rough. Lifter springs were warped upon inspection. Replaced those & still couldn't get good compression. Going to do a full rebuild. Not motor savvy though so I would like some input/suggestions. This is a budget rebuild though, so I don't have $$ for Aluminum heads, etc. at the moment..... Current motor specs(as stated from previous owner, was supposedly rebuilt in 2001) -302 block bored .030 over -new PAW flat top pistons(new rings & bearings) for about 10.5 to 1 Compression -Ported exhausted openings on heads -new water pump -new timing chain -new high volume oil pump -roller tipped rockers -performer rpm intake -Edelbrock 1406 600cfm carb -Crane Fireball II 290H cam(216* @ .050 and .484 lift, intake and exhaust) Car is running a T5 five speed now. 3.80 gears & a Auburn posi Any input is greatly appreciated. I want an aggressive lopey idle.. Dont know if I should change the cam or anything else components wise! Thanks, Matt

I know nothing about electronics, which is something I really need to start learning. But my mechanic told me to use a wire with alligator clips to connect the positive side of the battery to the positive side of the ignition coil. With this method and jumping it at the solenoid i was able to get the car running to drive it to his shop 40 miles away instead of paying $220 for a tow. Im pretty sure he knows what the problem is because Ive gone through this before so ill be sure to have him explain it so I can fix it myself net time.

sorry to get off topic.. but 69_Mustang, what exhaust are you running? ive been toying with the idea of running side exit exhaust.

going to take the battery to bench test it either tonight or tomorrow, but I could get the motor to turn over by jumping it at the solenoid. It would immediately die again as soon as I the screwdriver away that was making the connection though. ** The bad connections is a MAJOR possibility, my wiring harness is pretty sad looking. Wanting to upgrade to a modern harness, but i don't have the funds nor the place to do the swap since the cars sitting in the parking lot at my apt at college right now.

17x8 with 235/50r17 17x10.5 with 315/35r17 car sits low and am going to bring the rear down another 1" to level it.. if i can get the electrical problem I ran into this morning haha!

Started the car this morning and when I turned the lights on everything died as if there was no battery in the car or anything. So I disconnected the battery, pulled the ignition switch and put another in, reconnected battery and still nothing. going to return the switch so it seems thats not the culprit.... Anyone know where else to look? if not Im going to have to trailer the car back to the shop that works on it by my parents house 45 min away... Thanks in advance, Matt

http://www.cjponyparts.com/woodgrain-steering-wheel-kit-1965-1966/p/STW6K/ This may be that wheel.... cant tell for sure from the picture lol

Actually rides surprisingly well at speed. Im running the cheap O'reillys shocks right now though. I plan on running Maier race valved shocks. that will definitely stiffen up the ride. reverse-eye 5-leafs and a 1" block. Thanks everyone. Im having A LOT more fun driving it around as the stance and wheels have made a huge difference in my opinion!

very minor on the rear fender lips. going to run a 1/2" spacer on the drivers side and a 3/4" on the passengers so thatll give me a hair more clearance and im going to have the lips actually rolled instead of just my hammer job.

few pics i snapped today..

Yea i plan on fixing that, just did this to get it together temporarily

Got a lot done last night and today. got the studs swapped out. Pulled out the stock length front springs and put my cut springs back in. I had put on the 1" rear lowering blocks last week. I also changed the oil and went and got it inspected today. NOWW Im just trying to deal with a squealing belt issue that I am going to try and remidy with a new alternator belt in the morning. used two 5/16" spacers on drivers side(5/8" total) and three of them on the passengers side(15/16" total). On to the pics!(all cell pics tho..) stock spring next to one of my cut ones and just some of how the car sits now

are you guys with lowered cars running any shims on the UCA's to get the camber to an acceptable number?

will do, studs should be in later this week then ill use some washers to see exactly how much spacer i need on each side. then either pick up spacers or order them if i have to. car is about 45 min away from me right now at my parents house though so i only get to go work on it on mondays.