magician

That's not weird,that's normal if anything in the car is on or drawing current( if the terminal is off the battery). The power loss you are getting is from the starter drawing an extreme amount of current. Current to high indicates high resistance. Change,fix,or replace you ground wire to the engine block and go from there...grounds are as important as 12 volt sources.

I suspect a bad or poor battery ground.

You really need a meter to read the true voltage. Check it at the column side of the plug and see if u get the same thing. Do you have factory coil and ignition set up?

Headlight switch has an internal auto reset breaker in it. Poor connections can cause extensive current draw.check all connections.. Especially the grounds associated with the headlight circuit.

They help guide the window at the top of travel and keep it from wobbling.I couldn't get my window to act right without them

Mines not stock but I think some are for wiring harness clips..a brake line may go thru the other large hole.

Sure they didn't come from a coupe? Not the same.

If your in NC, email Sbsmustang@Yahoo.com . He has used doors

https://www.a1electric.com/index.htm

Second that..I went HEI and don't like the looks of it..runs fine but ugly and big.

I had good luck with the aftermarket rear trim...yeah it's thin and flimsy but when installed looks good . I didn't use any sealer on my rear glass and had to trim the gasket down but it went on fine..my car won't ever see the rain tho.(may not see the road either if I don't get busy)

If you can't get to it or have it media blasted, a rust inhibitor is the next best thing..I prefer zero rust brand.

Thx to everyone for pix and Info .Window alignment is tough enough if you got all the parts. Much more so with parts missing. Btw...im aligning door glass after installing A1 power windows. I'll report back on how they work for anyone interested.

Damn...forgot the clips...thx.I should ck my body manual before showing my ignorance.

I have repop rubber on the seal. Does the window just press against it when the door is closed or does it slip past the first part and slide into the groove behind it.? Pix would be nice!! Thx.

Get a 30 amp Bosch relay Battery power to pin 87 Ground pin 86 Tap off start wire on solenoid to pin 85 on Bosch Pull "I" wire off solenoid and hook to pin 30 on Bosch No change in operation ,just takes coil 12v out of solenoid

How does a stuck relay damage a coil ? I'm not familiar with the Mallory set up. I might have a solution if the theory of operation is explained. I assume the resister wire is not a factor.

Media blast would be good if you can. If not ospho or pickelex.(sp?)

Not familiar with that dizzy... I would assume one wire is for 12 volts and the other goes to the coil. check with Accel for Which one is which. Think twice before switching to hei...the full size ones are aggravating with factory AC.

Change the condenser and recheck the point gap.assuming you have a stock distributor.two wires to the same side of the coil don't sound right. Where does the wire from the distributor go?

They are sport comp. Mechanical oil and Speedo..I used an old dash to make the basic shape. Then 2 inch pvc pipe for small gauges and coffee cans for the large. Then stretched a tee shirt across the mess and soaked it in resein. Sand and shape to taste. Panel mount led's for turn and brite indicaters.

Custom made fiberglass with auto meter gauges. I get a lot of ideas from you guys. This is the result of some of them. Thx to all forum folk!!