manley

I've read over the years that POR15 should not be used on good clean metal....only rusted surfaces. What is the condition of your floor?

correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't the factory bolt have a shoulder which a thick washer rides against, leaving a gap between the bolt head and the large washer so the seat belt can move freely and not rub on the headliner? Couldn't you use this with the new seat belt?

Phosphoric acid seems to be the key component to rust converters: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phosphoric_acid

I'm thinking I had the same 4 like Ry-speeed mentioned, plus 2 more near the rear torque boxes since my car was completely stripped down. My suggestion is to buy the more expensive 2 piece torque boxes and weld them into the car separately. The torque boxes that come welded together are designed to be installed on cars that do not need the toe boards replaced. There are flanges bent the opposite way Ford bent them to aid in welding with the toe boards in place. You must separate the two pieces and rebend some flanges to correctly meet the surfaces to which they are welded. In my opinion, this is an old design created to add torque boxes to 65-66 cars. The pics I have seen of the more expensive two-piece torque boxes look like they are duplicates of the original design from Ford. Most memorable is the flange that lays on top of the angle part of the frame rail and is covered by the toe board. I had to add this flange because I regrettable bought the welded together pieces. Lesson learned. Does all that make sense? I just woke up, so let me know if I confused you.

You might need to clarify... are you talking the edge that directly mates against the quarter panel on the side, or the gap down under and to the inside of the extension?

A small gap is supposed to be there. One thing to check is make sure the gap on both sides is pretty consistent. A larger gap may indicate a poorly repaired/bent frame rail.

I guess we don't all do it the same and as mjchip points out, different methods are going to create different amounts of heat. The more time you have to spend grinding on one spot, the more heat buildup you are likely to have. I use a Dewalt 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with 1/4" thick grinding disks. When new, these things eat away metal with a quickness. You have to be careful when you get close to flush, because hitting the sheet metal will quickly thin out and weaken that spot on the panel, basically making your work moot.

Sounds like you may be being overly-cautious. Just jump around. It doesn't take long for enough heat to dissipate for you to hit that area again.

Sorry, but I have to agree that it was silly to request a more specific thread title. Maybe if there were hundreds of new posts each day, the OP might benefit from being specific, but the request is somewhat off-putting rather than helpful. It's pretty difficult to critique a newcomer without making them feel unwelcome. Now...I don't follow the prices of project cars these days, but I'll throw a number out there. Assuming there are no major surprises that detract from the value, you might get 4-5K out of the car if it is a Mach 1, which you can't prove yet. The 02 in the VIN only means Sportroof. The body code *must* be 63C for it to be a Mach 1. You can get a more detailed description of the car's original stats by getting a standard Marti Report: http://www.martiauto.com/reports2.cfm The rear end should be a 9 inch. If you have the original data plate on the driver's door, we can determine a bit more info regarding the original trans, paint, body, and rear end gears.

Kinda looks like they didn't make that bend when it was formed. I'll have to look at my car tomorrow and measure the inside edge. Mine looks like Mike65's and I bought the tail light panel over 10 years ago, I think.

http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/663976-any-one-making-once-piece-bolt-shoulder-belts.html http://www.retrobeltusa.com/product-p/3p-xxx-af.htm http://www.morrisclassicconcepts.com/ http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo.net/resebe.html

Yours isn't bent down like that? Can we see a pic of what you have?

If cost isn't a factor, there is a recent thread on VMF discussing vendors of new 3 point belts. The ones I looked at appear decent.

Good point.... I totally forgot about the wing windows.

I have 70 windows. I measured right around 15 inches at the middle between where the brackets attach and around 19 inches where the brackets attach. Wish I could be more help. The reason I suggested it might be sportroof glass is because that seems like the simplest explanation and a reasonable explanation regarding a mistaken seller. The next reasonable explanation, to me, is that it belongs to an earlier model year. Surely the guy had good reason to believe it came from a Mustang, after all. He just got confused somehow.

Repro tanks do have a drain plug.... at least some do. My SS tank has a drain plug. My original Dearborn June car did not have a drain plug.

I wonder if it's a sportroof window?

Are you saying you have the non-fold down seat in a sportroof? They actually use some of the same parts. Do you have a pic of what you have in your car so we can better understand what you are working with?

You should talk to Midlife if you want a nice factory harness.

Looks very solid! Has it had much metal replaced?

I still do, but it's on the back burner, at the moment. Thanks for the heads up!

I still do, but it's on the back burner, at the moment. Thanks for the heads up!

I would want to weld if from both sides, I think, so I would personally take a lot of time and weld the back side off the door... maybe 4 small welds at a time... let the heat dissipate and hit it a few more times...repeat until done. I don't like the tiny crack that can remain from butt-welding....seems like a great place for moisture to be retained and create rust.

I would want to weld if from both sides, I think, so I would personally take a lot of time and weld the back side off the door... maybe 4 small welds at a time... let the heat dissipate and hit it a few more times...repeat until done. I don't like the tiny crack that can remain from butt-welding....seems like a great place for moisture to be retained and create rust.

Wouldn't it be better and easier to weld up the inside seam of the shaved holes before you install it?