69RavenConv

Here's an interesting homebrew setup on a V8-powered MG. This is cowl induction, but it looks like the same idea could be adapted to a hood scoop. If you could get a good tight seal to the underside of the hood, that is. (Not something I would try, but interesting) http://www.britishv8.org/MG/EdGreene.htm

The easiest way would probably be swap in a 1970 setup; at least the harness and maybe the switch(?) You'd have to find a 5-1/4" hi/lo bulb to fit the smaller 69 bucket. I agree with Mike65, though, stick with the 4 lights and go with a hood scoop for fresh air.:shifty:

I'm running the original stock distributor with the Pertronix module (I like the original appearance). I assume it's got the cast iron gear which sounds like a no-no. Does this one look like what I need?? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-29418PD/

I did the roller conversion to my 302 and I need to swap my dizzy gear too (Comp Cams tech support said I didn't need to but I think he was confused). How delicate are those bronze gears? I keep reading that they wear out too fast. Now they have carbon composite versions but they are over $100!!! And I thought $40 for a little bronze gear was outrageous! My car is not high performance, a 300 hp cruiser that I'll probably drive 1,000 miles a year, so I figure bronze should last many years, no?

Probably any name-brand primer will tide you over for a while, but you'd want to sand it off again before you apply good epoxy primer later. Why do you say the blaster is too powerful for paint? Doesn't it have (or couldn't you attach) a regulator to reduce the pressure, suitable for a primer gun? Also keep in mind paints react badly to soda; I'm told you have to wash or sand *all* the residue away or risk paint problems later.

Thanks, I'll track some down!

Whose dye did you use? I, too, have a maroon interior and I used a rattle can that the Mustang vendors sell on a steering wheel pad and wasn't real pleased with the results. I was planning on going to a paint jobber and seeing what they can mix up.

I brought the car home with 5 large totes full of pieces and one trashbag with all of the wiring harnesses in it (none are labeled). Geez, why do people still do that??? Welcome to the site! The folks here are real experts and pretty darn friendly too. Looking forward to watching the reconstruction :001_smile:

Wow, a California survivor car, I hope it finds a good home. (Interior's probably not leather, btw)

The fact that they are returning your calls should give you some hope. True deadbeats ignore you or disappear altogether. I would stop the e-mails and use the phone. I would politely but firmly ask what the reason for the delay is. It may be a reasonable (or at least understandable). Plus, if you're polite up front, they'll be more inclined to work it out. If they still dodge the issue, then get aggressive. My 2 cents...

Thanks to all who chimed in to help. By grinding away a bit of the flange, hammering a deeper recess, bending down the valance bracket, and curling the edge of the valance, I was able to achieve a pretty nice fit.

Nothing amazing, but authentic nostalgia... http://blog.virginiaclassicmustang.com/2009/10/another-vintage-tv-commercial-1969.html

Great slide show and really nice body work there. Unfortunately my repop quarters are lacking the recess shown in Cruzzar's picture, so it's the mounting bracket on the valance that is causing the gap. I need to figure out how to create the recess (or modify the mount) to make it work.

Congratulations, I know the feeling well! When we bought our house 8 years ago, the 3-car detached garage was a huge clincher for me. We bought the house from a finish carpenter contractor who built it for his business stuff. Insulation and heat is a great idea and a good place to start while it's still empty. I have full wall and attic insulation, double pane windows and a wall-mount natural gas furnace. Natural gas is a great option if you can do it because there's no fuss. Wall mount is up and out of the way. And when you live in PA or Ohio like we do, you really need quality heat in the winter. A compressor would be my next choice. I have a Sears run-of-the-mill and I just plumbed my garage with the RapidAire nylon tube system (not PVC) and some filter/regulators from Harbor Freight. I like it real well for my amateur stuff but you can go with copper or black pipe if you can spend the money. After that, get shelves and workbenches, otherwise stuff piles up on the floor. Always remember the "Law of Garages"; junk always expands to fill the available space.

I'm bumping this thread because I'm facing the same issue. Test fitting both my original NOS valance and my repro dual exhaust valance shows the same problem with the lack of a recess for the bracket. I'm thinking my choices are; hammer a recess into the quarter, or cut a hole in the quarter for the bracket (and get creative to bolt it together). Anybody successfully deal with this one?

Can't you just replace the headlight switch with a 1970 model?? I understand the 1970 parking lights stay on and the difference is in the switch itself. Someone will correct me if I'm wrong...

Eastwood now sells their Rust Encapsulator (their answer to POR-15) in 16 oz aerosol cans. Or you could get a can of spray-on rubberized undercoating at the local auto parts store. Probably any good primer would work, as long as you're otherwise keeping the area dry and salt-free, I would think (not being any kind of expert)

:thumbup::clap::thumbup1:

I'm still amazed nobody's reproduced authentic vintage belts. I just went steel wool and paint on the buckles and Woolite to clean the belts. Although they say the belts are man-made materials and degrade with time and should be replaced.

I've been told that hollywood has a stable of "stunt cars" they use and re-use and they don't really wreck as many authentic old cars as it appears.

Thanks for the tips guys. I'm gonna look into your setup ND69.

Agree with previous posters, it's tough to find out. Having said that, it's unlikely a dealer would modify the brake system or change the interior; they would simply order you another car with those options from the factory. Dealer options were usually things that were routinely stocked by the parts department or could be swiped from another car on the lot -- racing mirrors, deluxe wheels or wheelcovers, radios, chrome moldings, that kind of thing. Your extensive upgrades were probably the work of previous owners scavenging donor parts. Of course, strange things have been known to happen in this hobby, so I suspect somebody will prove me wrong with their dealer installed 428SCJ, GT rims, Grande sound deadener, and Torino instrument cluster....

I've got a 302 vert that I've converted to dual exhaust and I'm not happy with my hanger setup. I started out buying the Mustang catalog's "factory dual exhaust hanger kit" and it wasn't right for a 69. I know the original 69 duals were a transverse setup and like most people I have the conventional dual mufflers & tailpipes. So I bought an assortment of Autozone hillbilly hangers and made them work with hangers at the mufflers and tailpipes but I keep thinking there's a cleaner way. Anybody got a setup they are really happy with and proud of??? I'd love to see some pic's or tips on what hangers to use and where to mount them. Thanks folks!

I don't know if cheap is the right word, just plastic. They probably work fine, especially in a fair-weather only car. I've still got them, brand new, if you want them Hawkdriver, PM me your address and I will send them to you free.

I ordered that mounting hardware from CJ's and (as you can see in their picture) they are plastic press-in inserts. I didn't like the feel of them so I used real aluminum rivnuts instead. You can get a cheap rivnut tool and a box of rivnuts from Harbor Freight for about $20. The plastic ones may hold up just fine, but I didn't trust them. Just my 2cents