Leaderboard

A simple way to check the center line would be to mark center on the bottom of the brace below the radiator support ,then find center at the rear between the shackle mounts in the rear frame rails and stretch a string ,then you can measure rocker pinch weld front and back to the string from each side ,do the frame rails the same ,this will let you know if something is cocked over to one side or the other

I did extensive research since I have a 393 stroker with A/C, and I knew it would run hot. I used DeWitt radiator, US made, they have a "direct fit" option, which is the exact height and width as the original. It is slightly thicker, and you need to use the 4 row upper and lower mounting brackets. The number of rows can be confusing, as it depends on the diameter of the tubes inside the radiator. https://www.dewitts.com/blogs/news/14141757-are-three-row-aluminum-radiators-better-than-two My car is an automatic (C-6), but I went with the manual trans radiator as it has more cooling area than the auto trans one. I used a separate trans cooler. I ran the engine on my test stand in 90 degree heat with dual Maradyne fans and my PWM fan controller and I was able to control the engine temperature in one degree implements. So, plenty of capacity. DeWitt also offers a "black ice" option that is a special coating they use to make the radiator look original. It does not impact the cooling. I waited until Summit ran a sale on the radiator, as it was pricey, but could not afford any cooling problems down the line. Hope it helps. DeWitt tech line is awesome, very helpful people. https://www.dewitts.com/collections/mustang-radiators/products/1967-1970-mustang-aluminum-radiator-2?variant=21235677134930 Some pics below: