50dan 25 Report post Posted March 30, 2018 Notice the slight gap between the steel wedge and the control arm? Should the steel wedge be closer to, or touching the control arm? Seems like this small gap gives room for flex? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted March 30, 2018 Why are you using the wedge kit? They are only needed if you lower the control arm >1". Because of the shape of that part of the arm the wedge will rest on the high spots, which should be the bolt areas. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted March 30, 2018 I've only installed one of those wedge kits. It fit correct and had good contact with the control arm and ball joint. Did you try flipping the edge 180 degrees to see if it fits better? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69ShelbyGT350H 61 Report post Posted March 30, 2018 Not what most would do, but what I did. That's just a stock suspension setup with a Prothane upper spring mount, right? Looks that way till you take a closer look. 1" Arning drop. opentrackerracing roller upper control arm Upper control arms with stealth boxing plates welded on the bottom. Dipped in black paint as the factory did. Roller Pearches. Lower arms boxed on the bottom, screw in ball joints, spherical pivot bearings at the lower frame mount. opentrackerracing DYI roller kit for upper and lower control arms w/boxing plates, roller perches, 1" Arning drop. Not shown: Prothane bushings on the strut arms. KYB Gas-A-Just shocks. Export Brace. 1 mwye0627 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted March 30, 2018 5 hours ago, 50dan said: This is exactly what I have decided to go with except the roller lower arms I've never seen those. You are going to keep the stock front springs and stock front ride height then? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted March 30, 2018 When I rebuilt the front suspension in my 69 Coupe I contacted Opentracker Racing & purchased his street performance upper & lower control arms, roller spring perches, roller idler arm, all new inner & outer tie rod ends, 1" lowering performance front coil springs, 1" front sway bar, performed the Shelby/Arning UCA drop, & purchased a rebuilt steering box from Chockostang. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
50dan 25 Report post Posted March 30, 2018 13 hours ago, barnett468 said: You are going to keep the stock front springs and stock front ride height then? Lowering everything at least 1". I have 1" front lowering coil springs, then was going to use the negative wedge kit and lower the upper control arm at least 1". Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
50dan 25 Report post Posted March 30, 2018 16 hours ago, 1969_Mach1 said: I've only installed one of those wedge kits. It fit correct and had good contact with the control arm and ball joint. Did you try flipping the edge 180 degrees to see if it fits better? I'll try flipping the wedge but I don't think that will make it any better. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
lanky 44 Report post Posted May 3, 2018 I would recommend the following for a street car: Either factory springs with stiff (aka gas a just) shocks OR lowering springs with a slightly softer shock (Bilsteins are worth the $) streetortrack strut rods Roller perches from ORP Factory arms with 1" arning drop or factory arms w/wedge kit and 1.5-1.75" drop Bumpsteer tie rod kit (many brands)--hassle to 'tune' correctly but totally help imo I have ORP track roller arms (uca's/lca's) with 1.75" arning drop, Bilstein shocks, SoT strut rods, cut lowering springs, bump steer kit. Handles awesome, but the roller suspension stuff sure does transmit a lot of noise through the chassis. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites