stangnet33 88 Report post Posted February 5, 2017 Over the years tried different things but I'm checking to see what others are choosing for their weapon of choice, keeping in mind of saving at least one part of sheet metal being separated. I've been using this 2 step cobalt bit. While it cut through like butter I don't like the size of the hole it leaves on the bottom piece of metal. 7 vapedVem, xapedVem, zapedVem and 4 others reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike65 475 Report post Posted February 5, 2017 I used both of these spot weld cutters from Eastwood.com with good results. http://www.eastwood.com/ew-3-8in-double-ended-spot-weld-cutter.html http://www.eastwood.com/5-16-replacement-spot-weld-drill-bits.html Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted February 5, 2017 I have tried every type of spot weld cutter I have seen or heard of. If you are removing a spot weld in a panel you will not be reusing, I use a 3/8 carbide ball on a die grinder. I eat away the top of the spot weld till I see a blue ring begin to appear around the weld. This tellls me that the metal is thin enough to rip off my hand. Once the metal is ripped off it leave a little but if a nub from the remainder of the spot weld which I knock down with a sanding disc on a grinder. Advantage.....you are never off center, the drill will not slip or walk, you don't have to center punch, and you never damage the base material you are going to reuse Bob 1 RPM reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmlay 80 Report post Posted February 6, 2017 I liked the idea of the carbide bit, may give it a try next time. I personally like the Blair spotweld cutter, they cut exceptionally well. Most people spin them too fast and break the teeth. There is no need to spin the fast. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jjstang 51 Report post Posted February 6, 2017 Bob, that sounds good, since you have experience with these, where do you source them? I'd like to try them. How long do they last. thanks Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Machspeed 219 Report post Posted February 6, 2017 I just finished cutting out the spot welds on both front fender aprons and the radiator support bracket. I purchased a couple of cutters from Harbor Freight and frankly, they weren't bad. Better t h an those was this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/351385576408?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
yard351 0 Report post Posted February 7, 2017 I use the Roto-Kut from Kimball Midwest pn. 82-1864. Just center punch the weld and cut it out. Made the splitting of the cowl almost easy! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted February 8, 2017 Bob, that sounds good, since you have experience with these, where do you source them? I'd like to try them. How long do they last. thanks I got them from ENCO but you can also get them from Amazon I have several and use them for all kinds of things. If only using on spot welds they will last you many hundreds of spots Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jjstang 51 Report post Posted February 10, 2017 I had to try out the ball bit. Pick up a cheap HF as a test. The concept works great but the HF piece lasted three holes.... Order one from amazon. There were some many choices, hope I got the best one. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jjstang 51 Report post Posted February 12, 2017 Hey Bob, Have you used those on heavier gauge like floor supports and torque boxes? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ridge Runner 1,113 Report post Posted February 12, 2017 I like the blair cutter .Make sure to center punch the spot weld first .I use a battery pack Ryobi drill on the low speed ,watch for rust to fly and stop you are through the first layer .The panels usually fall of ...if i centered the cutter ,if not a panel spliter will go right through what little i may have missed it by . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jjstang 51 Report post Posted February 13, 2017 I've been using the HF spot weld cutter, its hasn't worn out yet. Quite impressed actually. It likes to walk a lot even when its severely center punched. Resorted to pre drilling after the center punching, then the spot weld cutter. I seem to miss the middle a lot and the panel separators rips a holes that I have to fix. Tested Bob's method and it works really good. It worked great and its easier to get the center of the weld. The HF ball didn't last at all. I ordered a good quality ball, just wondering if it will stand up to thicker metal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jjstang 51 Report post Posted February 22, 2017 Just want to follow up. The 3/8 ball bur is fantastic. Got a good quality one. I took out the driver torque box and floor support in about half the time it took to do the passenger side. And it's still sharp. Thanks Bob for the tip. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsanter 152 Report post Posted February 24, 2017 Hey Bob, Have you used those on heavier gauge like floor supports and torque boxes? I know I am late answering this, but yes you can. I have actually used it on the shock tower side to free the inner panel without drilling a hole in it. That way I can use a spot welder to reinstall it on another car and beep it looking as factory correct as possible Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
