Jump to content
Sign in to follow this  
Shep69

Wilwood Brake Upgrade.

Recommended Posts

Im looking at upgrading my stock power disc brakes to a set of wilwood units. WILWOOD BRAKE DISC AND CALIPER 140-13476    . Just wondering if anyone has got these and are they much better than the standard power discs that im running. 

post-39819-0-42527000-1470288671.png

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just put on a set but haven't driven with them yet. Car is still being put back together. I called MP Brakes http://www.mpbrakes.com/ and talked to Pat. He didn't have anything good to say about Wilwood. I was asking about a power booster and master cylinder. He said the pistons are small in the Wilwood caliper. I think I will be fine with this set though. I see a lot of people running Wilwood Brakes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just put on a set but haven't driven with them yet. Car is still being put back together. I called MP Brakes http://www.mpbrakes.com/ and talked to Pat. He didn't have anything good to say about Wilwood. I was asking about a power booster and master cylinder. He said the pistons are small in the Wilwood caliper. I think I will be fine with this set though. I see a lot of people running Wilwood Brakes.

That's not good news to hear . Is its because they want to push there own product?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It could be Shep69. There are a lot of people out there running Wilwood brakes so I am not worried about it. I did get a single 9" booster, a 1" rod master cylinder and their proportioning valve from MPBrakes. Wilwood said when I called them to upgrade to a 1/4" brake line. MP Brakes said it wasn't necessary and I read on Wilwood FAQs that the 3/16" stock lines are fine. Conflicting stories there from Wilwood. One thing is to look for, the size of the wheels you are running. I have 15" rims so I had to measure the backside of the wheel where the lug nut holes are. It needs to be 14 !/2" or 143/4" across for clearance of the caliper.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some of the lower cost willwood systems are not much better than stock.

Some are using the stock rotors and have the same clamping power as stock.

You get the benifit or better looks, a little lower weight, and slightly better heat dissipation because the calipers are aluminum

 

What are your expectations from the aftermarket system you are looking for

 

Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I called MP Brakes and talked to Pat. He didn't have anything good to say about Wilwood. I was asking about a power booster and master cylinder. He said the pistons are small in the Wilwood caliper. I think I will be fine with this set though. I see a lot of people running Wilwood Brakes.

 

Were Pat's words "I don't have anything good to say about Wilwood" or did he have negative things ro say about them? I'm running stock 13" Cobra brakes so I don't really have a horse in this race. However, it would be nice to know at least close to Pat's exact words. Usually one company will bad mouth another because of bad dealings or sour grapes, not because of a design feature. I believe if one product is inferior the market will weed out the bad ones.

 

In my opinion Having stock size caliper pistons is not necessarily in itself a bad thing. Even a small brake system can't be overpowered by the stock power plant. Bigger than stock brakes generally come into play where higher speeds and repeated stops require it. Is MP Brakes a leader in the industry and does their word have credibility? I tend to steer away from folks who like to bad mouth others. I've raced karts equipped with small Wilwood calipers capable of frequent braking from 95 mph down to 45, but it's all about the application.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Some of the lower cost willwood systems are not much better than stock.

Some are using the stock rotors and have the same clamping power as stock.

You get the benifit or better looks, a little lower weight, and slightly better heat dissipation because the calipers are aluminum

 

What are your expectations from the aftermarket system you are looking for

 

Bob

Hi Bob, Just not that happy with my standard setup. I have replaced just about everything except the front rotors and callipers. Pedal feels good but if i jump on the pedal hard they won't even lock up going slow. just don't feel safe. Just want some ideas for an upgrade without taking a mortgage out on my house lol. I was hoping to use the standard power vac and master just upgrading the callipers. As i live in Australia there might be some upgrades i can use from our late model falcons. 

Cheers Mark

Cheers Mark.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Mark, the easiest upgrade would be to XF Falcon alloy calipers. They're a direct bolt on, even the flex lines will go straight on. I have a rebuilt set here I paid $250 for them. UPC do a kit to fit BA 300mm rotors/calipers that you can usually pick up on eBay for around $700.

Cheers Shaun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Mark, the easiest upgrade would be to XF Falcon alloy calipers. They're a direct bolt on, even the flex lines will go straight on. I have a rebuilt set here I paid $250 for them. UPC do a kit to fit BA 300mm rotors/calipers that you can usually pick up on eBay for around $700.

Cheers Shaun.

Thanks Shaun I will check them out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

MP Brakes just said that the pistons are smaller and he thought the people at Wilwood were idiots. I think he just favored his stuff and bad mouthed Wilwood. If Wilwood was so terrible, then why are a lot of people running them on their cars? Yes, Wlwood has smaller pistons but there are 4 pistons and not 2! Also, with Wilwood, the stock disc brake spindles need to be drilled out. The mounting holes are larger for Wilwood. They also send a 1/4" spacer that must be used to clear the hub. To me this is the way to go. They look great and I have all the confidence in them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Bob, Just not that happy with my standard setup. I have replaced just about everything except the front rotors and callipers. Pedal feels good but if i jump on the pedal hard they won't even lock up going slow. just don't feel safe. Just want some ideas for an upgrade without taking a mortgage out on my house lol. I was hoping to use the standard power vac and master just upgrading the callipers. As i live in Australia there might be some upgrades i can use from our late model falcons.

Cheers Mark

Cheers Mark.

If you cannot lock the brakes then you have something fundamental wrong with that system. My 69 has great brakes and I might me able,to put your nose into the windshield if you are not buckled up.

 

I have a set of the aluminum falcon calipers as mentioned that I will be adding to the car. I'm not sure it will improve anything but I think they will be cool and perhaps a little lighter.

Are you sure the front calipers are on the correct sides? If they are not then not all the air can be bled out and your braked won't be so good.

Also are you sure you have the correct master cylinders? The wrong bore size will mess up your mechanical advantage and will make the brakes feel weak..

The factory disc brakes are good stuff and will get the job done for all but racing applications.

 

Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers bob. I purchased the booster and master from chockostang a few years back now. I can only assume he sent me the right gear. Is there any way of telling what size master I have while on the car?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheers bob. I purchased the booster and master from chockostang a few years back now. I can only assume he sent me the right gear. Is there any way of telling what size master I have while on the car?

Based on where you got it from it is likly correct, however to check it you will have to remove it and measure the piston bore.

 

Be sure that the calipers are on the correct sides so you can bleed all the air out, I have made the mistake before.

 

What is new or verified in your system? Brake hoses? Hard lines? Dist block?

Anything that has some sort of blockage or restriction can be the cause.

 

I'm assuming your pads are good? What kind of pads? I put ceramics on the truck and hated them. I had to push a lot harder and it still felt like it was not going to stop. I swapped them for semi metallics and the brakes went back to like they were originally

 

Bob

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...