ray1970 88 Report post Posted July 6, 2016 Tinman as I sit hear thinking about timing curve and the fact i never became a rock star plus the fact your car runs poorly over half throttle Did you CK the mechanical ADV in your disturber to see if it was frozen -rusted solid and not working at all?? i know its something simpel but most people dont CK it after a long rest... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted July 7, 2016 Good point Ray. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinMan 77 Report post Posted July 7, 2016 Thanks for all the advise.. been on the road.. will take advise and wrench this weekend.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinMan 77 Report post Posted July 9, 2016 I managed to get timing marks on the balancer... borrowed a light.. it was just a few degrees BTDC... moved it to 10 degrees.. idle turned to butter.. Will drive her tomorrow.. Thanks for the help... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted July 9, 2016 Cool, when you set the timing be sure to disconnect and plug the distributor vacuum line, once set reconnect it. Hopefully this helps with your issues let us know how it goes. Edit; factory called for 6°, you can try it at 10°. I would run premium fuel. If it runs ok great, If it pings/knocks under load or low rpm cruise, back it down to 8° and try it again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RPM 1,190 Report post Posted July 9, 2016 I may just have to get you a timing light for your birthday come October :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted July 9, 2016 I may just have to get you a timing light for your birthday come October :) Ahhh, so you're the one I send my birthday wish list too? lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted July 9, 2016 I may just have to get you a timing light for your birthday come October :) Can I please have a twin screw blower? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted July 9, 2016 I'm not greedy lol, I just need a 55-80cf argon cylinder, doesn't even have to be full :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jmlay 80 Report post Posted July 9, 2016 You say factory stock fan. After all of these years the clutch may be not functioning up to par & a replacement may be wise. Thermal: Non-Thermal: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinMan 77 Report post Posted July 10, 2016 I'm having way too much fun to worry about my birthday.. It's my birthday every time I drive her!!!! There is no clutch.. fan is bolted to waterpump. Got the gauge working.. reinstalled stock sending unit.. Ok.. 10 degrees BTDC.. She's happy in 90F+ days as long as I'm going faster than 35 mph.. she's on the 180F thermostat... city driving she starts heating up.. Did about 120 miles yesterday.. got the gauge working... Did a car show today about 20 miles away.. she was fine when 80F temps going there.. idling to find a spot showed a slight hint of heating up... IR gun say 200F.... Coming home was 95F'ish... was on thermostat except for a couple full throttle blasts.. (was FUN!!) and then idling into the neighborhood... backing her in the garage she got to 210F... Thanks for all the advise! Advancing the timing worked! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted July 10, 2016 1969 351W motors did not use a clutch type fan setup. Non A/C cars had a 20" wide radiator and a 4 blade rigid fan. A/C cars had a 24" wide radiator and a 5 blade 17.5" diameter flex fan. The condition your car has is symptomatic of not enough air flow through the radiator. Is the fan/shroud setup correctly? If it is a factory A/C car does it have the correct smaller diameter water pump pulley? I know others argue differently, but in general these cars had insufficient cooling systems from the factory. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinMan 77 Report post Posted July 11, 2016 She's non-a/c car and 100% factory original. I did get the radiator boiled out. Everything in cooling system is new. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted July 11, 2016 At least there is still room to upgrade if you desire, 24" wide radiator, shroud, and larger fan. It's been a long time since I had a radiator cleaned or repaired. Only because there are no radiator shops in my area. It sounds like yours is clean since the temps drop at cruise speed. Just for future reference when having radiators cleaned it's best to have them "rodded out". To do that one or both tanks are removed and each individual tube is cleaned. Sometimes boiling out a radiator won't clean them. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted July 11, 2016 I have found that getting a radiator cleaned as being mostly just a band-aid treatment.. Most of my life new radiators were not in the budget.. My current one was replaced after BAMBI tried to occupy the same space as my grill. Deer meat for anyone!! I can say the motor has never run cooler..182deg is the hottest I have seen in 3 years.. 24in with the proper shroud... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Max Power 74 Report post Posted July 11, 2016 I know others argue differently, but in general these cars had insufficient cooling systems from the factory. I agree. People seem to forget, or never knew, that overheating was much more common in those days. Modern day systems that stay at operating temp and never waiver have spoiled us into thinking that it was always that way. It wasn't. The best way to get modern consistency and performance out of your cooling system is to buy modern parts. In the OPs case, I would get a new aluminum two core from ACP and avoid those 210f spikes in the future. That should be enough to get it done. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted July 11, 2016 I remember as a kid during summer months always seeing cars on the sides of highways with hoods open and somebody tinkering in the radiator area. Then in the early-mid 1980's both my older brother with his 1969 Mach 1 and me with my 1972 Challenger were constantly fighting heating issues. His worse than mine. His summer daily routine after parking in the driveway was open the hood, grab the garden hose, and start running water over the radiator with the engine running. So, yeah, to me, heating issues on early Mustangs are not good but are not uncommon. But if somebody didn't experience these cars 25-30 years ago then overheating would not seem normal. I agree, if the OP can, some cooling system upgrades to stop the 210 deg. F spikes should be addressed. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ray1970 88 Report post Posted July 11, 2016 Over heating and starter drag where a every day thing for me back in the 70-80s Having a std trans was a god send for me..(Can you say bump start) Going to the beach on a hot summer night always ended in a boil over.. Dont really miss those days....Most of the time... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinMan 77 Report post Posted July 17, 2016 Guess I have a capacity issue.. at 45 mph she'll pretty much stay on thermostat... any faster or slower she heats up... did 100 miles today to show...temp in the 80s.. in traffic she'll get up to 215F... at 65mph she'll do the same.. I'm only measuring a 10F drop between upper and lower hoses.. This with a couple different thermostats and no thermostat at all.. I've got a 180F stat in her now.. Guess I'll start researching radiators... at some point I'll start a serious build.. I've got to get my Pop's stang running first (he passed last Nov).. Not sure where I'll go at that point... I don't mind aluminum radiators and electric fans.. but whatever I do it's temporary at this point.. I just want to drive her until it's time to rebuild into something else.. couple years away.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted July 17, 2016 cheapest option is a chinese aluminum rad but it should have at least 35% more tubes than your current one. if it still runs hot, get a better fan next. if your timing curve is not set to ts optimum level, it can run hotter than normal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinMan 77 Report post Posted July 2, 2017 Man.. I hate this ugly aluminum radiator. I'll have to at least paint the top tank black. Anyway. Yup capacity issue. Champion cheapo 3 core. 90F here yesterday. On the thermostat even sitting in traffic. Not possible before. No where near direct fit as advertised. Had to zip tie on shroud. Will need to think about how to fix that too. Mean time. Drive time! 1 darlenecg69 reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bob & Sue 110 Report post Posted July 2, 2017 By any chance is that radiator for A/C if it is you could mount an electric fan in front of the radiator the bolt holes match several different fan sizes. If you still have your stock radiator I'd pay the money to have it re-cored at a local shop. We went out on a 100 mile cruise 2 days ago it was 88* at cruising speed 55-60 or 35-40 mph temp stays right at 185-190* sitting in traffic it might creep up to 200* that's with A/C on using a re-cored stock radiator. Aftermarket rads very to much in core size and fitment I'd contact a resto shop near you to find out what they use maybe they have some you could see before buying another one. I have the same setup as you 351W with factory hood scoop I have 2 large holes about 5" in diameter cut in the hood allowing hot air to escape with a plate on the inside to close them if it starts to rain. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TinMan 77 Report post Posted July 2, 2017 No idea on A/C to this radiator. Construction actually looks pretty good.. better than a $600 Griffin I bought previously for a Jeep. My local shop went through my stock one and said it was fine. Asked him to re core with more rows and he never got back to me with a price.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted July 2, 2017 2 hours ago, TinMan said: No idea on A/C to this radiator. Construction actually looks pretty good.. better than a $600 Griffin I bought previously for a Jeep. My local shop went through my stock one and said it was fine. Asked him to re core with more rows and he never got back to me with a price.. i don't think they can get us made cores anymore and the chinese cores have tiny tubes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted July 2, 2017 10 hours ago, TinMan said: Man.. I hate this ugly aluminum radiator. I'll have to at least paint the top tank black. you could have bought an aluminum one that looks like a stock one then painted it black. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
