Spider69 16 Report post Posted September 22, 2015 Hi, I have to replace the damper on my mach 1 (69). I can read a lot of information but this is confusing. I could find a lot of information but what is the best solution. Dampers exists from 100 to 500 box, fsi certified or not, with silicon or not, ... What is the difference between internal balanced and external balanced? I need your advice, help. 1 Dwaynenon reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted September 22, 2015 Stock ford's are externally balanced. Your 69 351w is the only year that a 351w uses a 3 bolt damper. As for what type of damper it depends on what you are doing to the engine. Is this a stock rebuild or do you plan on adding some hp to it? Edit SFI dampers are approved for the track. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted September 22, 2015 If you just want a stock replacement http://www.cjponyparts.com/crankshaft-damper-3-bolt-351w-1969/p/CSD15/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
barnett468 418 Report post Posted September 23, 2015 . this is fine for stock and mild builds and is a quality part made by one of the biggest oem parts mfg's in the world. $80.00 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pio-da-2009/overview/make/ford if you have changed to a 1970 4 bolt pulley'system, the one below is correct. $70.00 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pio-da-3513/overview/make/ford Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
69volunteer 84 Report post Posted September 23, 2015 Make sure that when you paint and then highlight the damper marks, you highlight the right ones. Most of these will have multiple sets of marks as they are used across several engines. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ashleesmach1 28 Report post Posted September 24, 2015 If your going for stock you can get the damper from www.damperdudes.net they rebuilt the original one my car has. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spider69 16 Report post Posted September 25, 2015 I don't want to add hp, car and engine are stock. I'm quite sure I have 3 bolt damper, I'll check. Thanks for the usefull answers. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted September 25, 2015 . this is fine for stock and mild builds and is a quality part made by one of the biggest oem parts mfg's in the world. $80.00 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pio-da-2009/overview/make/ford if you have changed to a 1970 4 bolt pulley'system, the one below is correct. $70.00 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pio-da-3513/overview/make/ford The 3 bolt one listed here does not have the correct pulley centering flange on the balancer, this one does.http://m.summitracing.com/parts/pio-872008 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spider69 16 Report post Posted September 26, 2015 I have to buy the removal and installation tool, where can I find a good one? Does it make sens to replace any other item when replacing the damper? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TurboStangGT 7 Report post Posted September 26, 2015 you don't have to buy one you can go to your local autozone they loan out this puller along with other tools Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted September 26, 2015 +1 with TurbostangGT, you just leave a deposit and get it back when you return the tool. As for what else to replace that depends on how many miles are on the engine. Might be a good time to replace the front seal. 1 TurboStangGT reacted to this Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spider69 16 Report post Posted September 26, 2015 Actually I'm in France and I cannot find such kind of Tools in our shops, unfortunately. I thlink it's a usefull buy, I can lend this tools to another guy :-) I thought about the front seal, can I replace the seal without removing anything else or have I to remove the oïl pan? I bought this car 3 years ago with 33000 miles on the dashboard but you never know what is the real mileage! The damper looks damaged so even if the engine seems nice I would take the opportunity to replace some important parts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted September 26, 2015 I have to buy the removal and installation tool, where can I find a good one? Does it make sens to replace any other item when replacing the damper? Here is a relatively inexpensive installer/remover tool from Summit racing. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1023-1/overview/ They have others as well and ship internationally. * A couple things to remember when using any puller or installer tool is DO NOT use any type of impact tools on them, and lubricate the threads on the jack screw and all pressure bearing surfaces with anti-seize compound. Do these and the puller/installer tool will last a very long time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted September 26, 2015 If it's an original front cover it will have to be removed to replace the front seal, the oil pan can stay in place. The newer replacement front covers don't have to come off as you can pry the seal out from the front. If it was me not knowing for sure when it was done I would probably change it while the damper is off, on the other hand it may be fine, hard to say. You have to make the call. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spider69 16 Report post Posted September 27, 2015 Thx rsmach1. Definitely I will replace the front seal. 1969_mach1, I know summit very well, already order a lot of items :-) thanks. I saw some movies on YouTube, very interesting, what do you mean with anti-seize compound? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted September 27, 2015 Anti seize is a paste used to keep metal parts from seizing together. Should be used on things like steel bolts going into aluminum treads, and in general metal parts that you don't want to get stuck together. Edit, I think your making the right call on the front seal. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
1969_Mach1 333 Report post Posted September 27, 2015 If you have an old style timing cover and have to remove it to replace the front seal, some care is needed for reassembly. On these older 351W blocks there are no dowel pins to correctly locate the timing cover on the block. Typically how timing covers are installed on these older 351W's is like this: 1) With the oil pan removed or at least dropped down, install the timing cover with seal already installed and loosely install a couple bolts. 2) Install the harmonic balancer. 3) Install the remaining timing cover bolts and tighten them while keeping the timing cover seal centered on the balancer. 4) Reinstall the oil pan. Basically this method uses the harmonic balancer to help center the timing cover correctly. I have managed to skip these methods and simply installed the timing cover with a little care. Before tightening the timing cover bolts I've taken several measurements between the crank snout to the seal and used those measurements to locate the timing cover. If you have a late model motor (I don't know exactly what the first year is) it has dowels. You simply install the cover and the dowels align it to the crank. Anti Seize compound: Auto parts stores and most hardware stores have anti seize compound. It's good to have a bottle of it in your garage. If you're like me, I've been working on the same bottle for over 15 years. The only word of caution I have when using it is don't put it on bolts you plan on tightening with a torque wrench. Anti seize reduces friction tremendously and the clamping force will be almost doubled by the time the torque wrench reaches its setting. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spider69 16 Report post Posted September 30, 2015 Nice advice, first time I hear about anti seize compound! I'll try to find this here in France. Best case was not to remove oïl pan because I don't have any leak and I would like to stay in this case. I will not start the work shortly, first of all is find all the items. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rsmach1 71 Report post Posted September 30, 2015 You should be able to do it with the pan in place. The cover gasket includes the gasket for the front of the pan, once the cover is off you simply cut the exposed pan gasket off and use the included gasket. When installing the cover don't tighten the bolts till the balancer is on, as this will help to locate the cover. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guillaume69 150 Report post Posted October 1, 2015 It can definitely be done without removing the oil pan. ;-) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Spider69 16 Report post Posted October 1, 2015 Thxs for the advices. Hi Guillaume nice to meet you here. I know now what I have to do . Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites