shaker with edelbrock rpm manifold

[barnett468 418]

Looks like I am going to just have to modify my existing base. Nobody that I can find offers just the base alone... even though they sell practically every other part by itself.  Scott Drake and CJ Pony Parts both told me they would not sell it stand alone.  No way I'm paying $450+ just for a fiberglass base.

 

call monroe at the number below . . if he can buy them separate, he will sell it to you separate . . tell him mustang mike sent you.

 

http://mustangshopofconcord.com/

[michael2938 24]

yes, dynacorn makes them and they are metal . . the fiberglass ones are a pos.

 

Just looked those up and places want $400+ for it.  This is crazy. 

 

I've seen several people say the fiberglass version is crap, but can anyone explain why?  Just from pictures they look the same.  Do they not function as well or cause problems on the car?  Or is it just that you can tell they are not original somehow?

 

The quality of the one I have seems fine to me.

 

-Mike

[coz 108]

You should give Leon a call.  He's the guy who makes most of the fiberglass models and is very knowledgeable.  And from what I've seen there is nothing wrong with the fiberglass models.  Well made and look basically the same from the exterior.

 

http://www.fordramair.com/

 

I'll be ditching my real shaker base later this year.  I'll list it in the parts for sale section cheap.  It's been "modified" some but it might make someone's day who needs to make some mods.

[1969_Mach1 333]

Just looked those up and places want $400+ for it.  This is crazy. 

 

I've seen several people say the fiberglass version is crap, but can anyone explain why?  Just from pictures they look the same.  Do they not function as well or cause problems on the car?  Or is it just that you can tell they are not original somehow?

 

The quality of the one I have seems fine to me.

 

-Mike

 

In my opinion, if your didn't originally have a shaker, its not worth the cost to convert to one.  Plus, it limits your intake manifold selection and you're stuck using the small filter that fits the base.  I kind of think if they helped a lot, they would have been standard on Boss 302's.  Just my 0.02 cents.

[MichaelJames 12]

In my opinion, if your didn't originally have a shaker, its not worth the cost to convert to one. Plus, it limits your intake manifold selection and you're stuck using the small filter that fits the base. I kind of think if they helped a lot, they would have been standard on Boss 302's. Just my 0.02 cents.

Yeah... The reality is I am not racing this car so if it drives comfortably then that's good enough for me.

 

If I didn't come across such a great deal on the shaker I wouldn't have spent the money to add it. For around $1100 I bought from a guy on Craigslist the shaker assembly, full quarter panel, full set of brand new magnums and tires, original console, original ford rubber floor mats, and a few other small reproduction items like the hood molding, mustang deck lid lettering, and some other random stuff I am forgetting. I figure I got the shaker, might as well use it.

[1969_Mach1 333]

Yeah, that is a good price for everything.  Give it a try.  Worse case, sell it on EBay and recover some money.

[barnett468 418]

Just looked those up and places want $400+ for it.  This is crazy. 

 

 

that price is far from crazy when an original 428 one is around $2,000.00 and a boss 302 one is around $4000.00.

[MichaelJames 12]

that price is far from crazy when an original 428 one is around $2,000.00 and a boss 302 one is around $4000.00.

If I were looking for an original concours quality then those prices make more sense.

[1969_Mach1 333]

I tend to agree with MichaelJames, the pricing on many items as far higher than they should be or are worth.  I think its partly due to wealthier people building these cars in todays market, well paying somebody else to build the car is usually the case, and can simple pay more.  Kind of like real estate, prices are based on what the market can pay.

[69ISH 10]

This was taken from its first outing with the shaker on Sunday, still have some fibreglassing to do.

 

 

 

 

This was taken yesterday before my power steering dilemma

 

 

 

[prayers1 153]

On some websites it states that if you have a high rise manifold on a small block you would need the big block shaker base, so I recently bought the Scot Drake Shaker assembly for a big block for my 351C that has a high rise Blue Thunder Intake. Since I already had the fiberglass repro small block shaker I compared the two. 

The only diff from the repro fiberglass small block (has fiberglass Shaker), is that the Scott Drake Shaker was aluminum, but the base is also fiberglass. It was only 1/4 shorter where it mounts on the carb. There are no other modifications made. 

 

I spoke to a tech at Scott Drake who told me that my Blue Thunder is taller than most high rise intakes. I sent it back and got a full refund.

 

I like the idle Cuz said about mounting it to the hood, as I thought the same thing, but didn't know how to.  I would think if mounted to the trim ring the scoop under high speeds might pull off.  Maybe Cuz can comment or start a new tread on this.

 

For now I'm using a factory big block base that I mounted bolts to and bolted the mid plate on top of that. It is shorter in height than the Shaker Base. If you didn't know anything about Shakers you wouldn't know it wasn't right.  I do have a gap at the rear because of the offset mid plate.

 

Small Block Base

 

Big Block Base

 

Small Block

 

Big Block

 

Big Block Numbers

[1969_Mach1 333]

Really cannot accurately compare 351 Clevelands and 351 Windsors when it comes to air cleaner fitment.  The Cleveland uses a much shorter connecting rod, thus has a much shorter desk height, and the overall height of the engine is much shorter than a 351W.  An air cleaner combination that fits a 351 Cleveland will probably not fit a 351 Windsor.

[prayers1 153]

Its not the Cleveland I'm comparing too, but the AFTERMARKET small block filter base vs. the big block filter base. In a stock Cleveland form, the big block after market base is used. Since I had both small and big block I was showing the comparison.

 

What I'm trying to point out, is that the aftermarket fiberglass bases are both the same size within the filter area, EXCEPT where the measurement is at the carb mount.  The portion of the lip that fits on the carb is a 1/4" shorter. So, with a shorter lip it allows the base to sit a 1/4 lower.

That's the only difference between the two!  Maybe the factory metal bases are different?

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Its not the Cleveland I'm comparing too, but the AFTERMARKET small block filter base vs. the big block filter base. In a stock Cleveland form, the big block after market base is used. Since I had both small and big block I was showing the comparison.

 

What I'm trying to point out, is that the aftermarket fiberglass bases are both the same size within the filter area, EXCEPT where the measurement is at the carb mount.  The portion of the lip that fits on the carb is a 1/4" shorter. So, with a shorter lip it allows the base to sit a 1/4 lower.

That's the only difference between the two!  Maybe the factory metal bases are different?

 

that looks like great info for people.  to me, it looks like the best thing for people to do, is order the one with the longer lip, which allows the owner to trim as required

[michael2938 24]

that looks like great info for people.  to me, it looks like the best thing for people to do, is order the one with the longer lip, which allows the owner to trim as required

 

I've been talking with someone from Scott Drake about it, trying to special order just the big block base and they told me it would sit 5/8" lower than the small block.  Their website says it would be 1/2" shorter.

 

My worry with just trimming that lip is that the bottom part of it curves inward just slightly.  So if I trim that down, my worry is it won't sit right on the carb anymore.

 

-Mike

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

I've been talking with someone from Scott Drake about it, trying to special order just the big block base and they told me it would sit 5/8" lower than the small block.  Their website says it would be 1/2" shorter.

 

My worry with just trimming that lip is that the bottom part of it curves inward just slightly.  So if I trim that down, my worry is it won't sit right on the carb anymore.

 

-Mike

 

if the bases are truly the same except one has a little longer lip, then I would think you could trim it down to the length of the other and be fine. 

 

it seems to me, if you trim it down and parts of the carb start interfering, then you would clearance those locations and probably have to refiberglass those locations.

[michael2938 24]

if the bases are truly the same except one has a little longer lip, then I would think you could trim it down to the length of the other and be fine. 

 

it seems to me, if you trim it down and parts of the carb start interfering, then you would clearance those locations and probably have to refiberglass those locations.

Right, but the very edge of the lip curves inward a bit, so once I shorten the lip, I lose that curve.  Which means the round lip on the carb may no longer line up with the lip on the base.  It's hard to explain, but I may just try it anyway.  Worse case it will sit on a different part of the carb, but as long as I get it level it may not matter.

 

Here is a picture of what I am talking about.  Once I shorten the lip, I have effectively made the hole larger.

 

[BuckeyeDemon 211]

Right, but the very edge of the lip curves inward a bit, so once I shorten the lip, I lose that curve.  Which means the round lip on the carb may no longer line up with the lip on the base.  It's hard to explain, but I may just try it anyway.  Worse case it will sit on a different part of the carb, but as long as I get it level it may not matter.

 

Here is a picture of what I am talking about.  Once I shorten the lip, I have effectively made the hole larger.

 

 

 

I see.  what's the OD measure and how does that compare to the carb mounting surface?

[michael2938 24]

I see.  what's the OD measure and how does that compare to the carb mounting surface?

 

Hmm interesting... ok, so outside diameter is the same on both carb mounting surface and the base -- 5 3/8".  So it seems like it would work just fine if I trim it down... there would just be less of an edge sitting on the carb.  It sure doesn't look that way just by looking at it.

 

 

 

 

-Mike

[1969_Mach1 333]

If you trim the bottom of that air cleaner base it will not longer fit on the air cleaner flange on the carburetor.  You would have to fabricate something else to adapt the trimmed air cleaner base to the carb.  If you get it to fit, after its installed spend a few minutes and check the clearance between the air filter lid and the top of the choke plate and choke horn assembly.  Actually, I would check that before doing any modifications to lower the height of the air cleaner assembly.  Holley recommends 1" clearance to eliminate any air flow restrictions into the carb.  Improper sized and fitting air filter assemblies can have a drastic impact on performance. 

[michael2938 24]

If you trim the bottom of that air cleaner base it will not longer fit on the air cleaner flange on the carburetor.   You would have to fabricate something else to adapt the trimmed air cleaner base to the carb.

 

Given that the outside diameter of both are exactly the same, why would it not fit?

 

If you get it to fit, after its installed spend a few minutes and check the clearance between the air filter lid and the top of the choke plate and choke horn assembly.  Actually, I would check that before doing any modifications to lower the height of the air cleaner assembly.  Holley recommends 1" clearance to eliminate any air flow restrictions into the carb.  Improper sized and fitting air filter assemblies can have a drastic impact on performance.

 

Just went back out and checked.  Right now it seems I have about 1 1/2" to 1 3/4" inches from the top of the choke to the air filter lid.  It seems I should still be safe to lower it down some.

[1969_Mach1 333]

That's great news.  Yeah, your right, there seems to be enough room to lower it some.  I just wanted to bring that to your attention.  A lot of people do whatever is needed to get an air cleaner under the good and end up with the air cleaner lid almost contacting the top of the choke plate or choke horn.

 

That air cleaner base might walk off one side of the air cleaner flange on the carb after your trim off that section that curves inward.  The ID of the air cleaner base will be a lot larger than the ID of the flange on the carb, which is 5-1/8 inches.  Not saying you can't work around it, because you most likely can.  I'm not familiar with fiberglass.  I wonder if that flange that is rolled inward on the air cleaner base can be bonded back onto the air cleaner base after it is trimmed to the correct height?  That might be worth looking into.

[MichaelJames 12]

I appreciate all the feedback and watchouts as I am not really familiar with fiberglass either. Tonight I picked up a tube of jbweld epoxy that I can mold into a new lip after I shorten it. I figure that will be easier for me than trying to attach two pieces of fiberglass together. This stuff says it will work on fiberglass so we'll see how this goes.

[michael2938 24]

Thought I would post an update here.  Scott Drake special ordered just the big block shaker base/tub for me since that is what is needed for a 351w.  Compared to the one I had, it's definitely much shorter, and not just in the lip around the center where it sits on the carb.  I put it on and the shaker height is much more like where I wanted it to be. 

 

[Alan_Mac 48]

I also have a high shaker.  Its not a physical problem but doesn't look to be at the factory height.  Michael, the Scott drake big block shaker base looks good. Can you provide the part number and cost?  What air cleaner filter and lid will work with it?  Thanks for the investigation.  Alan