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nothing from dynacorn is great . . i would get a ford tooling one unless you want an mint original with old original paint in which case i have one . . i am in so calif.

 

you might spend 2 days fixing a ford tooling one.

 

i did not attach these stupid photos below

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Ok , i was told that Dynacorn  made good panels even better than scott drake.  I have a dynacorn RH quarter in a box in the shed ready for when i start the panel work. Will be interesting to see how it goes. They are all made in in taiwan /china etc. Barnett how much do you want for yours? Us Aussies are pretty fussy so when you say mint its probably average to us lol. I have seen plenty of stangs over here that were meant to have been in mint condition then upon arrival OMG. I know i have one.

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I have to get one for my R code as well ,i am going to get the Ford tooling .

If I am not mistaken, NPD commissioned their own R code hood from Ford tooling with the cutout for the shaker already provided. Not sure if they have sold this to others, but when I spoke to the product manager there, they were the only ones doing it.

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nothing from dynacorn is great . . i would get a ford tooling one unless you want an mint original with old original paint in which case i have one . . i am in so calif.

 

you might spend 2 days fixing a ford tooling one.

 

i did not attach these stupid photos below

I found the 69 quarters to be very nice from Dynacorn .And the 65-66 fast back quarters are very good .67-68 quarters fit good but need a slight bit of work .Trunk lids ,not so good for any of them .I have never had to use a Dynacorn hood for any of the years so that i do not know about .

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I have seen those in the catalog ,i haven't tried one yet .I don't believe they are making their own actual hood though , they are only cutting the shaker hole in an existing hood.They are close enough to me to drive there to try one though .

Correct, they are using Ford tooling hoods and the original factory measurements and cutting the hole for you. Their Ford product manager has pretty high standards for fit, so I imagine the hood is as good as you can get, for whatever that is worth.

 

I bought a non-skaker Ford tooling hood and my body guy said it was decent.

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Barnett how much do you want for yours? Us Aussies are pretty fussy so when you say mint its probably average to us lol. I have seen plenty of stangs over here that were meant to have been in mint condition then upon arrival OMG. I know i have one.

 

no, when i say it is mint it is mint and better than you think it is . . mint is mint, its that simple . . the cars you are buying that sellers claim are mint are being described by people that simply do not know the difference or are simply lying . . it is usually the latter, but optimistic buyers believe the lies and unrealistically think they can get a perfect bodied fastback for $18,000.00 and do not have the cars inspected by a professional before they buy it so they get burned thern blame the used car dealer they bought it from.

 

 

also, a mint, original 69 hood is easily $1,000.00 or more . . i looked at mine and it is a 70 and still has original paint and was from a so cal non beach area car . . i might sell it for $600.00, maybe a little less . . i have some people that want to see it in a fews or maybe a week.

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I have a dynacorn non shaker hood. It is the only hood they make for 69. It is actually a late 69/70 hood (indicated by the oval cut-outs underneath for the hood pins)....early 69 hoods had round cut-outs underneath for the hood pins. I only had to do a little persuading on both side to line up with the fenders. Since I'm still in prep , I may consider the ford tooling shaker hood. Not sure I want to mess with hand cutting the shaker cut-out.

 

Dave

 

PS: i will put the dynacorn up for sale.....located in western NY.

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Well I can chime in here on several of these as we have installed them on my brothers 69.

 

Ford tooling hood with shaker cut out.: The hood fit pretty dang good surprisingly. Its top profile follows the fender top profile pretty good considering. We had to spend a little time fixing one corner that was from shipping damage. The shaker cut out is laser cut from a full hood. It's not a separate stamping. Its pretty damn close. As mentioned before, this hood is a late 69 hood as the cut outs underneath are "oval".  Aside from the common blocking that's always needed, it seems a pretty good fit.

 

Full Quarter Panel: We have also installed both left and right full Dynacorn quarters. There's a little rework to do but they fit pretty good. The pockets for the side scoop needed reworked. location of the cutouts for the quarter panel lights are not consistant (they definately do these as a secondary operation after the quarter is formed) his varied by 3/4" of an inch in location when compared to each other. We also had to fix the bumper relief on the passenger side as it was 5/16" shorter than the driver side. Stood out when you fit the bumper.  All in all, it was not so bad for an aftermarket.

 

Deck Lid: All I can say is "eewww". The fit is pretty crappy Everywhere. front to back, its like it was warped. We sent it back and got another. It sucked just as bad. We borrowed my son in-law's repo dynacorn deck lid. Same thing. they all were different. We wound up totally reworking the dynacorn deck lid in just about every way you can imagine. All the gaps needed attention. I strongly suggest reworking an original one even if the lower lip is rusted through. cut new metal and replace it. You have far less time than reworking the dynacorn deck lid. 

 

Full front Frame Rail / Shock tower assembly: My brother purchase both driver/passenger side Dynacorn pre-fabricated front frame rails / shock tower/apron assemblies with reinforced shock towers. I give these the best fit of anything. We did have to message the area where they meet the firewall but these were assembled surprisingly well and impressed me with their dimensional correctness.

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well I see this post was started back in march so maybe more have bought hoods and give feedback about them. I need to get one myself my biggest concern is the fit at the leading edge of the hood and the fender extension. I've seen alot of pictures were the drivers side fit is good and the other side is crap almost as bad as this picture this hood my not even be steel just using the picture as reference. anymore feedback repro's that fit good were did you buy from?pictures? thanks       post-43317-0-75973900-1442009271.jpg

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For some reason one headlight bucket does fit different than the other side up next to the front of the hood .It seems like the pass. side fits better than the driver side .I have had a few 70s and the fit was worse than the pic above from the factory .I carefully massage the ends of the hood with a rubber hammer ,it usually doesn't take much to bring the edge down .I think it also matters how the headlight buckets were tightened down . some need a washer between the bucket and the fender over the stud to keep the bucket from bending down when tightened .

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I have spoken to some guys down here in Australia and found out that the dynacorn hoods are not great . Even to the point that they have removed them and replaced them with another brand as they were so bad. When I spoke to the local mustang shops they told me that they only use one company in Taiwan now as the others are always being returned. I've decided to keep my original hood and spent the time to make it work.

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there is no such thing as a repo 69 hood . . they are all 70 hoods.

 

only an original hood is better than ford tooling and a ford service part..

 

the headlight buckets on the one side are cast incorrectly, either the ones cast in michigan or california are correct but i dont remember which it was.

 

you can measure the distance from the bottom to the top of both buckets . . if they are the same, they are ok.

 

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I have NPD Ford tooling hood, never had an issue when installing. Correct me if I'm wrong but I Believe the difference between the non ford tooling and ford tooling is the metal gauge they use? 

 

your hood does not line up with your headlight bucket.

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